Adding the OEM nav
2/11/14, 01:08 PM
#221
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Dash isn't so bad, but it is a 2 person job. It would be easier for you to get the dealer service guys to print off the how to remove dash instructions than for me to explain it, though.
Make sure you remove the rear view mirror.
Make sure you remove the rear view mirror.
2/11/14, 01:09 PM
#222
Mach 1 Member
Hey Muskosa thanks for the info that cleared up a lot of questions I have everything for the navigation system except the main wiring harness and dual zone components which I will buy. Question and this goes for Muskosa and Jim. How hard is it to take out the whole entire dash. I mean looking at the picture the steering wheel is also gone and airbags. So it looks very scary to do lol. So before ordering the missing pieces I will be taking apart the dash because at the moment the car is stored for the winter. Please advise me on any advice you guys got. Thank you both for figuring this all out because I almost bought the raxiom navigation system and it just didn't look oem to me 
I personally took out everything.
-Matt
2/11/14, 10:36 PM
#223
Hi All
One of the best purchases that we made was to get the CD disk of the Ford Service manual. You do not need to get a original Ford one as a copy (found on ebay) will do. The disk contains all the information needed to work on every component in the car. Taking out the dash was a no brain er, using the information in the disk. Every bolt, wiring harness, switch and other components are listed in the disk.
Regarding replacing the main wiring harness, it was not as much of a problem that I originally anticipated. Since the wiring harness goes down each side of the car most of the interior needs to be removed. This is not as much of a big deal as it sounds since to remove the dash you have to remove the sill plates, A pillar covers, console, and kick panels. The only things left to remove to replace the main harness are the seats (two nuts and two bolts each), the rear seat, (push in two tabs, one on the left and one on the right), rear seat backs (three bolts), rear quarter covers (two push in connectors) and retaining clips. Next the trunk lining (very easy) as well as the trunk deck lining (again very easy). The only hard part of the whole rewiring project is to remove the evaporator motor housing intake so that you can put the wiring harness behind the evaporator housing. Also getting the door plugs undone is a bit of a challenge. If any one needs assistance I will do what I can. I felt the same about rewiring the amp in the trunk and since we were also adding a spoiler with camera as well as a shaker 1000 sub woofer in the trunk, it made perfect sense to me to replace the wiring harness. It took approximately 5 hours for my son and I to do the rewire job.
One of the best purchases that we made was to get the CD disk of the Ford Service manual. You do not need to get a original Ford one as a copy (found on ebay) will do. The disk contains all the information needed to work on every component in the car. Taking out the dash was a no brain er, using the information in the disk. Every bolt, wiring harness, switch and other components are listed in the disk.
Regarding replacing the main wiring harness, it was not as much of a problem that I originally anticipated. Since the wiring harness goes down each side of the car most of the interior needs to be removed. This is not as much of a big deal as it sounds since to remove the dash you have to remove the sill plates, A pillar covers, console, and kick panels. The only things left to remove to replace the main harness are the seats (two nuts and two bolts each), the rear seat, (push in two tabs, one on the left and one on the right), rear seat backs (three bolts), rear quarter covers (two push in connectors) and retaining clips. Next the trunk lining (very easy) as well as the trunk deck lining (again very easy). The only hard part of the whole rewiring project is to remove the evaporator motor housing intake so that you can put the wiring harness behind the evaporator housing. Also getting the door plugs undone is a bit of a challenge. If any one needs assistance I will do what I can. I felt the same about rewiring the amp in the trunk and since we were also adding a spoiler with camera as well as a shaker 1000 sub woofer in the trunk, it made perfect sense to me to replace the wiring harness. It took approximately 5 hours for my son and I to do the rewire job.
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KönaMACh1 (12/16/21)
2/11/14, 11:01 PM
#224
Hi Defiance
Taking the dash out is not that much of a challenge. We did not remove the steering wheel, and, instead removed one bolt that holds the steering column to the steering shaft, as well as 4 nuts that hold the steering wheel and ignition switch assembly. Again if you get the cd it all becomes very clear (lots of photos as well as step by step instruction on the dismantle and assembly). By the way this is the same cd that the Ford techs use while working on cars in the service department.
The air bags stay in the steering wheel so there is no issue there. Just keep in mind that when you remove the steering wheel assembly that you A. do not turn the steering wheel or the clock spring, and B. do not turn the front wheels.
The passenger air bag does not get disturbed (unless you need to get to the Sync module).
Having two people is a benefit.
The Cd cost me $14.00. It is in PDF so I printed out every page that we needed in step by step collating, and put the pages in a three ring binder. When ever we were unsure of the next procedure or location of bolts, switch, etc, we just looked in the binder.
Regarding the cost of the main wiring harness as Jim has suggested it is expensive ($320.00), however I looked at the cost of the connectors to hook up the amp, (around $60.00), connectors for the shaker 1000 sub, and backup camera and decided that the $320.00 was a bargain. In one of my earlier posts I suggested that doing this replacement was only for those who had lots of money and lots of time to do the replacement.
After replacing the three wiring harness's (14401 dash, 14005 main, and evaporator dual zone harness) and replacing all of the interior we started up the car with no problems of any kind.
One thing that we did find out was that the phone switch on the steering wheel did not work. This is due to the fact that the right hand steering wheel switch assembly has two part numbers. One for Nav and one for non nav. The part number for the nav switch assembly is AR3Z-9C888-FA ($46.00). You do not have to remove the steering wheel as the switch assembly snaps in with 4 snaps (2 on each side).
I hope that this helps
Rob
Taking the dash out is not that much of a challenge. We did not remove the steering wheel, and, instead removed one bolt that holds the steering column to the steering shaft, as well as 4 nuts that hold the steering wheel and ignition switch assembly. Again if you get the cd it all becomes very clear (lots of photos as well as step by step instruction on the dismantle and assembly). By the way this is the same cd that the Ford techs use while working on cars in the service department.
The air bags stay in the steering wheel so there is no issue there. Just keep in mind that when you remove the steering wheel assembly that you A. do not turn the steering wheel or the clock spring, and B. do not turn the front wheels.
The passenger air bag does not get disturbed (unless you need to get to the Sync module).
Having two people is a benefit.
The Cd cost me $14.00. It is in PDF so I printed out every page that we needed in step by step collating, and put the pages in a three ring binder. When ever we were unsure of the next procedure or location of bolts, switch, etc, we just looked in the binder.
Regarding the cost of the main wiring harness as Jim has suggested it is expensive ($320.00), however I looked at the cost of the connectors to hook up the amp, (around $60.00), connectors for the shaker 1000 sub, and backup camera and decided that the $320.00 was a bargain. In one of my earlier posts I suggested that doing this replacement was only for those who had lots of money and lots of time to do the replacement.
After replacing the three wiring harness's (14401 dash, 14005 main, and evaporator dual zone harness) and replacing all of the interior we started up the car with no problems of any kind.
One thing that we did find out was that the phone switch on the steering wheel did not work. This is due to the fact that the right hand steering wheel switch assembly has two part numbers. One for Nav and one for non nav. The part number for the nav switch assembly is AR3Z-9C888-FA ($46.00). You do not have to remove the steering wheel as the switch assembly snaps in with 4 snaps (2 on each side).
I hope that this helps
Rob
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KönaMACh1 (12/16/21)
2/11/14, 11:09 PM
#225
Hi Jim
FyI We are installing the remote starting kit as well as the rear bumper warning assist system. Thanks for suggesting that we get our parts from Toulsey. Chris there has been a great help to me.
We also just installed the nav and nav system update disks.
We are having lots of fun.
Regards
Rob
FyI We are installing the remote starting kit as well as the rear bumper warning assist system. Thanks for suggesting that we get our parts from Toulsey. Chris there has been a great help to me.
We also just installed the nav and nav system update disks.
We are having lots of fun.
Regards
Rob
2/12/14, 08:24 AM
#226
Mach 1 Member
2/12/14, 08:38 AM
#227
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Hi Jim
FyI We are installing the remote starting kit as well as the rear bumper warning assist system. Thanks for suggesting that we get our parts from Toulsey. Chris there has been a great help to me.
We also just installed the nav and nav system update disks.
We are having lots of fun.
Regards
Rob
FyI We are installing the remote starting kit as well as the rear bumper warning assist system. Thanks for suggesting that we get our parts from Toulsey. Chris there has been a great help to me.
We also just installed the nav and nav system update disks.
We are having lots of fun.
Regards
Rob
2/12/14, 09:07 AM
#228
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Join Date: January 30, 2014
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Hi Defiance
Taking the dash out is not that much of a challenge. We did not remove the steering wheel, and, instead removed one bolt that holds the steering column to the steering shaft, as well as 4 nuts that hold the steering wheel and ignition switch assembly. Again if you get the cd it all becomes very clear (lots of photos as well as step by step instruction on the dismantle and assembly). By the way this is the same cd that the Ford techs use while working on cars in the service department.
The air bags stay in the steering wheel so there is no issue there. Just keep in mind that when you remove the steering wheel assembly that you A. do not turn the steering wheel or the clock spring, and B. do not turn the front wheels.
The passenger air bag does not get disturbed (unless you need to get to the Sync module).
Having two people is a benefit.
The Cd cost me $14.00. It is in PDF so I printed out every page that we needed in step by step collating, and put the pages in a three ring binder. When ever we were unsure of the next procedure or location of bolts, switch, etc, we just looked in the binder.
Regarding the cost of the main wiring harness as Jim has suggested it is expensive ($320.00), however I looked at the cost of the connectors to hook up the amp, (around $60.00), connectors for the shaker 1000 sub, and backup camera and decided that the $320.00 was a bargain. In one of my earlier posts I suggested that doing this replacement was only for those who had lots of money and lots of time to do the replacement.
After replacing the three wiring harness's (14401 dash, 14005 main, and evaporator dual zone harness) and replacing all of the interior we started up the car with no problems of any kind.
One thing that we did find out was that the phone switch on the steering wheel did not work. This is due to the fact that the right hand steering wheel switch assembly has two part numbers. One for Nav and one for non nav. The part number for the nav switch assembly is AR3Z-9C888-FA ($46.00). You do not have to remove the steering wheel as the switch assembly snaps in with 4 snaps (2 on each side).
I hope that this helps
Rob
Taking the dash out is not that much of a challenge. We did not remove the steering wheel, and, instead removed one bolt that holds the steering column to the steering shaft, as well as 4 nuts that hold the steering wheel and ignition switch assembly. Again if you get the cd it all becomes very clear (lots of photos as well as step by step instruction on the dismantle and assembly). By the way this is the same cd that the Ford techs use while working on cars in the service department.
The air bags stay in the steering wheel so there is no issue there. Just keep in mind that when you remove the steering wheel assembly that you A. do not turn the steering wheel or the clock spring, and B. do not turn the front wheels.
The passenger air bag does not get disturbed (unless you need to get to the Sync module).
Having two people is a benefit.
The Cd cost me $14.00. It is in PDF so I printed out every page that we needed in step by step collating, and put the pages in a three ring binder. When ever we were unsure of the next procedure or location of bolts, switch, etc, we just looked in the binder.
Regarding the cost of the main wiring harness as Jim has suggested it is expensive ($320.00), however I looked at the cost of the connectors to hook up the amp, (around $60.00), connectors for the shaker 1000 sub, and backup camera and decided that the $320.00 was a bargain. In one of my earlier posts I suggested that doing this replacement was only for those who had lots of money and lots of time to do the replacement.
After replacing the three wiring harness's (14401 dash, 14005 main, and evaporator dual zone harness) and replacing all of the interior we started up the car with no problems of any kind.
One thing that we did find out was that the phone switch on the steering wheel did not work. This is due to the fact that the right hand steering wheel switch assembly has two part numbers. One for Nav and one for non nav. The part number for the nav switch assembly is AR3Z-9C888-FA ($46.00). You do not have to remove the steering wheel as the switch assembly snaps in with 4 snaps (2 on each side).
I hope that this helps
Rob
now i wondering. You wrote it is three Harness's but under the 2014 GT i found only the Main Harness 14401? I dont find the 14005, whats that now ?
Thanks a lot
Andre
Last edited by frequency79; 2/12/14 at 09:21 AM.
2/12/14, 10:19 AM
#229
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
14401 is the dash harness, while 14005 is the body harness. You still need the climate harness and the associated cables/harnesses for the antennae if it doesn't come with the dash harness.
As Rob stated, you don't need the body harness, but you will have to be prepared to make your own wiring harnesses. I've been doing this all over my car for the amp, rear view camera, and now heated mirrors.
I had discovered that as well, but never got around into looking at why until I got my 2014 wiring manual. The 2012 wiring manual showed that everything was the same, so I assumed that there was an issue with connection somewhere. Then I get the 2014 wiring diagram showing that the 2 are indeed different.
Not the first time that Ford didn't get the diagrams right.
Thanks for the part number. Saved me the trouble of looking it up. I'll be ordering it today.
As Rob stated, you don't need the body harness, but you will have to be prepared to make your own wiring harnesses. I've been doing this all over my car for the amp, rear view camera, and now heated mirrors.
One thing that we did find out was that the phone switch on the steering wheel did not work. This is due to the fact that the right hand steering wheel switch assembly has two part numbers. One for Nav and one for non nav. The part number for the nav switch assembly is AR3Z-9C888-FA ($46.00).
Not the first time that Ford didn't get the diagrams right.
Thanks for the part number. Saved me the trouble of looking it up. I'll be ordering it today.
Last edited by jim010; 2/12/14 at 10:26 AM.
2/13/14, 04:05 AM
#234
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Hi,
but i checked allso the Partnumbers of the Left Hand steering wheel switches, i found out thats here allso a different Partnummer from Nav unit to a non Nav exist. But where is the Difference?
And the Body Harness i found only under the 14A005? Is that correct?
but i checked allso the Partnumbers of the Left Hand steering wheel switches, i found out thats here allso a different Partnummer from Nav unit to a non Nav exist. But where is the Difference?
And the Body Harness i found only under the 14A005? Is that correct?
Last edited by frequency79; 2/13/14 at 04:08 AM.
2/13/14, 10:47 AM
#236
Hi
The nav unit recognizes different resistance signals from the switch on the steering wheel (right side switches). On the non nav switch unit there is two resistors incorporated into the Phone-OK switch. On the nav switch there is only one resistor for Phone only. ( there is no OK switch).
Defiance... The part numbers that I have been listing are for my sons car (a 2012) so please check with your dealer to insure that the part numbers for your car (2013) are the same or different.
The steering wheel wiring harness is the same for Nav and non nav. The harness connects to the air bag, right and left switches, ground, and horn. It then connects with the clock spring.
The right steering wheel switch has the following functions:
-Vol up
-Vol down
-Next up (track, station)
-Next down (track, station)
-Phone
-OK
-Voice
-Mute
The nav switch does not have the OK feature.
The main body harness is under the 14A005 wiring group. It will be specific for the 13 and will be available with different options, ie. with shaker sub woofer, etc.
I got the 14A005 with all options since if you don't use a wire connector it doesn't hurt anything.
According to my research the left steering wheel switches are for cruise and do not interact with the nav. It is the right switch only that needs to be changed.
Again I hope that this helps
Rob
The nav unit recognizes different resistance signals from the switch on the steering wheel (right side switches). On the non nav switch unit there is two resistors incorporated into the Phone-OK switch. On the nav switch there is only one resistor for Phone only. ( there is no OK switch).
Defiance... The part numbers that I have been listing are for my sons car (a 2012) so please check with your dealer to insure that the part numbers for your car (2013) are the same or different.
The steering wheel wiring harness is the same for Nav and non nav. The harness connects to the air bag, right and left switches, ground, and horn. It then connects with the clock spring.
The right steering wheel switch has the following functions:
-Vol up
-Vol down
-Next up (track, station)
-Next down (track, station)
-Phone
-OK
-Voice
-Mute
The nav switch does not have the OK feature.
The main body harness is under the 14A005 wiring group. It will be specific for the 13 and will be available with different options, ie. with shaker sub woofer, etc.
I got the 14A005 with all options since if you don't use a wire connector it doesn't hurt anything.
According to my research the left steering wheel switches are for cruise and do not interact with the nav. It is the right switch only that needs to be changed.
Again I hope that this helps
Rob
2/13/14, 03:25 PM
#238
Mach 1 Member
I just got the NAV unit...for my 2010GT premium. Now I was looking in the trunk, and I already have an amp on the passenger side. Does that mean I could skip the amp wiring? Or should I try and see if I hear sound? It's a Shaker 500 currently. I am not going with the dual climate control, but got the camera with the spoiler, too. However I will keep my GT500 spoiler and mount the camera above the license plate in my 2013 panel.
Now I need to get all the other parts from white bear lake ford
I will keep you guys posted on the progress. Just need parts now.
LEXiiON
Now I need to get all the other parts from white bear lake ford
I will keep you guys posted on the progress. Just need parts now.
LEXiiON
Last edited by LEXiiON; 2/13/14 at 03:27 PM.
2/13/14, 04:26 PM
#239
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Interesting that you have an amp there already.
It should be plug and play, then. You'll know if you get no sound.
Did your nav come from a car that had the rear camera? If not, then you will need to get it programmed to enable that feature so you can see on the nav screen. Another member had to do the same. Siber Express, I believe.
It should be plug and play, then. You'll know if you get no sound.
Did your nav come from a car that had the rear camera? If not, then you will need to get it programmed to enable that feature so you can see on the nav screen. Another member had to do the same. Siber Express, I believe.