jim010

Then you are good to go. You will need to follow the thread where I talk about retrofitting the camera.

LEXiiON

Do you have a link?
Thanks
LEXiiON

defiance772

Wish me luck guys I have started on Nav and Dual climate control conversion with no backup camera. I have the the GT/CS spoiler. I love it to much . Last night I got the middle console and center console out. Not much but it's a start though. Tonight will be radio and sync display I will be taking pictures of my odyssey.

Overboost

Are you sure this isn't the Sirius module? I believe it's located in the trunk as well.

LEXiiON

Maybe. I am not sure.
When I look at the cabling diagrams for the 2010 then I should not have the amplifier. It may be the Sirius module.
LEXiiON

jim010

I have a picture of the amp in the beginning of this thread. It is metal and finned.

zeroaviation

The Sirius receiver is located in the ACM. The antenna is on the truck however.

-Matt

LEXiiON

I looked again, and it is not an amp. So I have to get that, too. It's a black plastic box...
LEXiiON

defiance772

Hello Muskosa. Do I need that body Harness. I thought all we needed was the main dash harness, climate harness and the harness for the dual zone AC.

zeroaviation

You are correct you only need the main dash harness. (there are other things u need to however, jim010 has listed them in the first of this thread)

-Matt

defiance772

Thanks Zero. Do you know what the body Harness is for I heard it mentioned.

Muskoka

Hi All
The main wiring harness (14A005) is not needed to get the navigation to work. You only have to change the 14401 under dash wiring harness and if you want to get the dual zone HVAC system to work you have to replace the Evaporator housing wiring harness.
As Jim suggested in his earlier posting the nav system (ACM) does not have sufficient internal room for an amplifier, (especially the cooling necessary for the amp) so the amp is external. The OEM amp is located in the right rear fender well in the trunk. Without the amp being wired to the ACM there is insufficient audio within the car. Jim's excellent solution is to obtain the necessary wiring harness pigtails for the amp to ACM and using aftermarket wire to make his own wiring harness. He also suggested to go to a car audio store and have them make the necessary wiring changes to get the sound going.
The reason that I changed the main body wiring harness (14A005) was three fold.
To have an OEM wiring connection for the audio amp in the trunk
To have an OEM wiring connection for the back up camera in the rear spoiler
To have an OEM wiring connection for the Shaker 1000 Sub woofer system in the trunk.

I would only recommend the arduous process of replacing the 14A005 for those that wished to replace any two of the above systems.
Best of luck and let us know how the replacement is going.
If you need any more assistance in getting the dual zone HVAC system working let me know.
Regards
Rob

defiance772

Thanks Muskoka. Hopefully I wont need to wire the Amp in. Jim said there some 2013 or 2014 owners who had sound already installed so they didn't need it. There might be another location for the Amp in the 2013 & 2014 mustangs.

jim010

I am going by Yellow302 who stated that he did not need to get an amp, and all he needed was the ACM. I have not confirmed that 2013/14 don't need an amp.

defiance772

Thanks Jim I know. Hopefully thats true. One thing Jim if I don't have an amp and go to a radio to have them do it. What do they need to do just get to the nav unit and wire it up from there.


Thanks

Overboost

I started updating my notes here with some of the recent info. I ran into a couple of additional questions:

- Muskoka mentions CR3Z-14A005-KB, which indicates a 2012MY part. I'm guessing it'd be wise to make sure you get the appropriate harness for the MY of your car? Reason I ask, the BR3Z-14A005-KB is nearly $100 more than the CR3Z part! If I can avoid ordering the more expensive parts, I will.

- Has anyone found the part numbers for and/or priced out adding the Shaker 1000 sub into the system? I'm curious, and may add it depending on price.

- Any additional risks when changing the evaporator housing to accommodate the DEATC components? Other than swapping them from the old single zone, do we need to be cautious of anything else?


Jim, you mentioned adding the heated mirrors with pony projectors, have you bothered to look into wiring these on pre-2013MY car?

defiance772

Hey guys well been chugging along with this project so far it hasn't been to bad. Here are some pics of my interior being removed

defiance772

Hey guys. I'm stuck at taking the airbags out how do remove. I dont want brake the clips. Also the steering wheel how do I deal with that. Also with the top part of the dash does that just come out where are the bolts for that. The ford manual service manual doesn't specify that.

zeroaviation

Are you referring to both air bags? the steering wheel has two connectors, they have a squeeze style connector.

The top part of the dash does not come off. It comes out as an entire piece.

Are u doing it in the street????


-Matt

defiance772

Lol I'm not the street. I'm in a garage. Ok so dash is a whole piece now I know why this is a 2 man job. Also how do you remove the airbag interior plate without braking it. The plate that says gt/cs where the airbag is held.