Len

Picked up my 2013 GT last week and I love the car but the shifter leaves much to be desired. It shifts smoothly but it's a guess as to what gear it will hit next. I have no confidence that I would ever be able to power shift it on a regular basis. I'm even nervous quick shifting it. Also - I have the 401A interior and whoever at Ford thought a metal shift **** was a good idea should be fired. It gets hot as hell in the sun.
I purchased a Tri-Ax and Steeda bracket and will install it after the car has a few more miles. This is my first Steeda shifter. My '08 GT had an MGW and that was the best shifter I ever had. I considered getting the new one but the install on the Steeda is a lot simpler and everything I've read about the Steed is positive.
But, based on what I've read in various forums, I have some questions.

Bracket install - I've seen complaints that they couldn't get the Steeda bracket installed without lowering the drive shaft. Anyone experience that issue? Should I use lock washers - I think MGW recommends that with their shifter. I intend to use the high durometer bushing (the black one) but not sure how much noisier it is than the red one - anyone tried both? Is the black one overkill?

Shifter install - looks like the only issue is the rubber boot. Doesn't appear to be much finger room to seat it properly. Is there a trick to getting it on?

Reverse Lockout - I don't have an issue with the stock one. I've read people noting that the Steeda is much harder to get into reverse. Steeda gives you an extra spring but according to my conversation with Steeda, it's installed with the weaker spring. Just playing around with the shifter uninstalled, it doesn't seem to be that difficult to push it down. I don't think it needs to be made "harder".

401A shift boots - it has two tabs that fit into the stock shifter - the Steeda doesn't have holes that the tabs would fit into - is that an issue? Should I just break them off?

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks.

autobred

I just installed the steeda shifter/bracket last week. I followed the directions and a couple of the various install videos..MGW has nice ones.
I used the black durometer bushing from the beginning and Im fine with it. Reverse is absolutely no issue with the spring that it came with, feels oem.
As for the black bushing. Yes it is tough to slide the billet bracket over bushing because you dont have much room to muscle it in from the bottom. This is the easiest way I did it and it slid right on.
1. lube black bushing with supplied lube and slide onto tranny
2. from the rear end of driveshaft I slid the billet bracket over black bushing just enough to get it started, lined up with bushing. Bracket is standing vertical ready to be pushed up. ( billet bracket at this time is resting on driveshaft)
3. Got in the car and pushed down on shifter slowly and billet bracket slid right over bushing easily. Other stuff of the install is straight forward. I had some dynamat handy (1 sq ft) and covered the exposed metal inside the car around shifter, around rubber boot edges etc. and few pieces underneath plastic console.
2 hours total install time. 30 minutes of that was trying to get all 4 corners up on jack stands. to have room to do it.

Len

Thanks for the info. Is there enough room if I just put the front on ramps?
How hard was it to get the boot on?

autobred

maybe for some, but I needed to put the rear on jackstands. The boot is easy just watch the various videos (MGW disassembly video )and read the installation sheet with your shifter. When I was underneath to snug the bracket bolts down after boot install, I visually checked the boot lip is sitting flush against the tunnel floor. I had some picks and hooks handy just in case I had to poke or pull the boot around to seat it perfect. I dont have to remind you to take caution and care lifting your car right Len.. when you start the install, it will all come clear to you and its satisfaction guarenteed my man after the test drive

tj@steeda

Hello,

The base bracket and bushings do not require the driveshaft to be lowered. Lock washers are not needed, the nuts have a locking feature on them already. I do not have any quantifiable data to compare the difference in NVH characteristics between the different bushings. If worried, just use the red bushing.

The rubber boot is one of the most critical steps of the install, to reduce wind noise and NVH from the cabin, and by far the most difficult step. Just take your time.

The reverse lockout spring is stiffer than the OE spring. The higher rate is for making sure people do not accidentally engage reverse; it has happened. We also include a firmer spring in the box because every single person has an opinion about what soft and firm actually is.

The two tabs serve very little purpose and should be removed prior to install.

Please call is if you have any further troubles installing the shifter.

Best Regards,

TJ

Len

Thanks for all the info.

SterlingStangMan

This is a lesson learned when I installed my shifter - right after you bolt the shifter into the shifter body, install the rubber boot. This gives you the space you won't have after you install the bracket. Because the base plate is nearly twice as thick as the stock shifter's, there is almost no room to align it and adjust the boot I spent about 10 minutes struggling with it before it dawned on me to just drop the shifter bracket and then it was a breeze. You have to do the bracket last anyway

Len

Most of the instructions, including Steeda's, indicate you should tighten the bracket most of the way before you install the boot. I thought it would be easier to let the bracket hang and you've confirmed it. That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks.

06GT

For the rubber boot, it is very difficult to do from the driver's side. If you do it from the passenger side, and concentrate on putting the boot around the "lockout tab" on the trans FIRST, it will go on very quickly and with minimal frustration.

SterlingStangMan

You are welcome Len! This is what these Forums are all about, exchanging tips on installations and relating lessons learned! We all end up enjoying are cars all the more for it!

Len

Did the install today - finally. Thanks to all in the forum who gave input.
The install took longer than I thought - the main issue was the bracket. Stock came out easy although the clip that the factory puts on was a pita to get off. I had intended to use the "red" bushing but decided to line everything up first so I put the "black" on since it's cut and is much easier to get on and off. When I tried to slide the bracket over the black bushing the drive shaft was in the way - no matter what I tried I couldn't get it on. I was ready to put the old bracket back on and just do the shifter but it occurred to me that by jacking up the rear (I was using front ramps) it might raise the frame high enough to give me clearance over the shaft. That worked - still tight but I was able to angle it over the bushing. At this point I thought about putting the red bushing on but didn't want to press my luck knowing that if I couldn't complete the install it would be difficult to remove the red bushing and go back to stock.

(Steeda - if you're reading this I think it would be a good idea to cut/split the red bushing - same as you've done with the black).

Installing the shifter was fairly easy but putting the boot on was another pita. Replaced the stock aluminum shift **** with an Epco and a new boot retainer. May sell the stock aluminum **** - they sell new for stupid money - but aside from it getting hot as hell in the sun, it was growing on me.

Finally finished and went for a ride. In the beginning it was quiet as stock but after it warmed up there was a very slight transmission noise - nothing terrible and would probably not be noticeable with the radio on. The throw is terrific - feels like more than a 20% reduction. Shifts are fast and positive. I had gotten used to the stock shifter and once I figured out the best way to hit third I stopped missing shifts but the Steeda is a big improvement in every way. Replacing the stock shifter is probably the first mod anyone should do.

autobred

edit: doublepost Glad you got it installed, I picked up some noise also and its been a few months to where I kind of ignore it now LOL
I'll probably disassemble mine this winter..if it is the lighter spring that's installed from the factory, I will put the stiffer spring in for more a positive reverse feel. Seems like the preinstalled one got softer and I prefer it to be more positive when shifting to reverse.

Len

When I ordered mine from Steeda they told me the supplied spare spring was the stronger one. I left mine alone and think the reverse effort is fine yet more positive than stock. It will have to weaken considerably before I wrestle with that boot again!

autobred

Good! so the spare one is the stronger one. Yeah, Ive had the shifter for a couple months now and it seems I catch myself going for reverse twice to be positive. So now Im putting double wear on it, even worse.. LOL Yeah its all personal preference, its definitely gotten softer. Wrestling with the boot? dude you must have banana fingers..
just messin, it is a bit*h

Len

For me reverse seems more positive than before - I definitely know when it's in there. The boot - it's my fingers and knuckles! If I ever switch to the red bushing I wonder how hard it will be to remove the black one. I had to push it real hard to slide the black one into the bracket - doesn't look like it will slide out easily and I think it will be difficult to pop it off the lip without removing the bracket first.

06GT

I tried to switch to the red one but I was unable to get the black one off. I think I'll have to disconnect the DS if I want enough working room to make that switch.