So I have a pile of parts available to me to build an oil cooler kit. I have a core already mounted in my grille, -10AN lines but I'm stuck on some options:

Option 1 (MMR kit) - Oil filter relocation (Think ford racing block adapter), remote filter mount

Option 2 - oil sandwich filter, skip relocating filter (sell the remote filter mount and block adapter)

Option 3 - stack a oil sandwich filter (option 2) and the stock boss 302 water/oil cooler (to act as a warmer at first, and then a cooler once warmed)

I like option 3 the most as the packaging for the filter and servicing the system/ oil changes would be easiest. I couldn't figure out where to mount the remote filter where I could easily get at it and not put it in harms way should the car get dinged up.

Option 1 I could try a different remote filter mount, but I don't know where I could find to mount the filter without removing factory hardware, I'd like this to work as well on the street as possible and not require a complete disassemble of the front end to change the oil (I'm looking your way, Audi)


The other issue I'm having is I'd use the same canton part as the FR air/water kit for a sandwich filter but it has no provisions for a oil pressure gauge. I could tee off at the factory position, but with option 3 it seems like it would be pretty crowded (has anyone done this? What size fittings were used).

I have an oil temp sensor, but it plugs into the pan (I have the moroso 10.5qt road race pan).

Thoughts on this build?

 

Option 3 sounds like the best if you're going to be pushing the car hard (looks like you are!). I had an external oil cooler setup as described in your option 2, but I like the Boss 302 cooler setup (part of the reason I ordered the track package) and combined with the external oil cooler I'd expect you'd be in great shape.

I had not thought about an oil pressure or temp tap in the sandwich plate, I'd be interested to see if something like that exists... I might research to see if there is a sandwich plate I could add in without also adding an external oil cooler just to have the easy tap for temp or pressure....

 

There's a few out there. I ended up just going with a 22mmx1.5 canton plate with 2 -10AN outputs, but they make some specifically just to add a few 1/8 NPT ports.

 

Did you connect pressure and temp that way? Just did some google searching, it does seem like there are a number of options available.

 

To do the pressure sensor, you just need the following:

1/4-1/8" NPT reducer
1/4" Tee (male, femalex2)
1/4" elbow (male/female)

From there you can get it assembled from the factory sender position, just have to make sure wiring is protected and away from the exhaust manifolds.

 

On option #3, do you think it might be over-taxing the oil pump running the oil through two coolers?

 

The Ford "oil cooler" is more like a pre warmer since it is cooled by the coolant system, which can't be all that cool, doubt the system would be over taxed, though you could probably switch to billet gears just in case.

 

I'm already running billet gears in the pump.


I'm running -10an lines, so I am hoping that the pressure drop and restriction isn't too overwhelming.

 

Option 3 seems like over complication.
I like option 2.
KISS.
I don't see the point of warming w/ the boss cooler then cooling w/ the front mount air/oil setup. You are just dumping heat into your water cooling system then cooling the oil with the external setup.

If just a track car then just the simple air/oil cooler w/ a sandwich adaptor. if living up north or street car I would be concerned w/ oil not warming up fast enough, but no empirical data on my end for that to confirm or deny. you could plumb in a oil thermostat setup.
I have a non-ford track car where I use a canton adaptor running to a mocal air/oil cooler up front. no pre-cooler etc. I also have TWO temp senders; one in the pan and then one in the block just downstream from the cooler. I can check hot (pan) and cooled (into the block) oil temps. I can toggle between the two, reading from the same gauge, w/ a simple switch. However, I rarely look at the cooled temps anymore, the pan temps are the important ones I monitor.... so just use your existing pan port. I flip to the post cooler readings occasionally to make sure all is functioning well.

On my non-ford my oil temps are generally higher than my water temps. typically oil is 240+, which is fine for full syn, and water 190-220F on a hot track day. So running the oil through the boss cooler will just unecessarily raise your water temps if you are going then run the oil through an external cooler anyway, in my opinion.

saw this in one of my magazines recently, thought it was interesting
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-th...449350ef7beee9

 

Interesting idea piping in two locations to monitor hot and 'cold' oil temps... would be interesting data, might try to hook up a couple thermocouples if I get a chance, would be good to see how effective the Boss oil cooler I will have on my car is. Don't really want to put in an external cooler, but will if I have to. Used to see 280F oil temps with my twin turbo car, made me a little uncomfortable