m4a1mustang

When you grow a pair and buy your parts. :stirthepot:

Secondhandloser

m4a1mustang

You'll have to drive the car at ZDayZ. Maybe it will encourage you...

Krnnerdboy

Just got my rss and camber plates on. I'll get a more thorough review once I get on the track but here's the gist of it...

Immediately the car felt tighter and more controlled but at the expense of being a little harsh. Ride harshness is fine but it gives up some traction on bumpy roads which I didn't notice before. Once I get it dialed in and the roads dry I'll report back. But I'm ecstatic and feel much more at home in the mustang now.

jaguarking11

For me the watts link was a huge difference even with stock suspension. I didn't feel the need for it auto crossing, but it definitely kept the rear from swinging around when hitting bumpy roads around town. It gave the car better manners in rough situations. For me during the time I owned my 07 I was working in Brooklyn. The roads made the stock panhard bar setup swing wildly, the rear would tuck in when turning left and raise up turning right. Couple that with bumps and creases, it was a wild ride at anything over 50mph. The rear would steer itself over uneven roads and it was a chore to keep it lane.

But you have to tune it accordingly, it also felt like it reduced roll. But have no data to prove that.

Just remember to adjust it to your taste and the cars needs for intended use. It does take some trial and error.

m4a1mustang

It should lower the roll center (and have some adjustability built in) so I have no doubt it helped to flatten out the rear of the car through the corners.

m4a1mustang

Anyone have the part #s for the bolts we are not supposed to reuse?

Secondhandloser

I will never turn down a chance to evaluate parts for free

m4a1mustang

You did last year.

Bigblue11

W714652/Strut-to-wheel spindle bolt (2 required). I reuse mine though they seem too be working.

m4a1mustang

Thanks. I got the part numbers earlier and ordered the replacements just to be safe. $15 for insurance... I'll take it.

calgarybandit

I run a Roush upper control arm, Steeda LCA & Panhard bar, Eibach front and rear sway bar kit great setup and tight steering.

Secondhandloser

I was scared

m4a1mustang

So, I ordered my Steeda CC plates and Watts Link on Monday from Stranoparts. Got both delivered by the end of the work week. Thanks Sam!

I am sporting my winter setup (18" Dunlop Wintersport M3s) right now so I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I took next Thursday and Friday off work. I'm planning on painting the rear axle on Thursday then installing some parts on Friday. There's a chance I might only do the Watts Link, but I think I'm going to go for it and try to wrap up the entire install on Friday/Saturday.

Then I'll wait a few days and try to get an alignment the following week. I'll get it aligned again when I switch back to my summer setup (275/35 Michelin Pilot Super Sports on the Brembo wheels).

Anyways, I'm impressed by the quality of the Fays2. I talked to Sam a bit on Monday about the install so I think it should go smoothly. The Steeda CC plates are very nice as well. Hopefully the spring isolators are not too hard to pry off of the GT500 mounts.

m4a1mustang

So an interesting thing has happened...

I bought a 2005 Honda S2000 as a fun car. Now I am second guessing putting all of this stuff on the Mustang...

m4a1mustang

So, a little late, but I finally am getting around to putting everything on the car. Got the 275/35 Pilot Super Sports mounted and balanced today and got a late start on doing the rear suspension. Steeda Sports, Koni Yellows, and Watts Link are all on the rear now. However I ran out daylight (and warmth) to continue futzing around with the watts link to get everything lined up. I'm attempting what Sam advised which is to put the propeller in the center position and align the arms and axle clamps so that the arms are both at 0 degrees.

I tighted up everything where I had it and rolled the car all the way into the garage so I could close things up for the night. I'll be back to work tomorrow morning and hopefully get everything lined up right and buttoned up tight so I can take care of the front suspension.

I will say the Watts Link is much more of a PITA than I thought it would be... A lift would have been helpful. And I'm not really sure how I'll be able to fit my torque wrench up in some of the spaces!

m4a1mustang

Oh and I need to run to the store in the morning to get flange nuts for the front struts. The ones supplied by Koni do not work with the Steeda HD mounts.

JAJ

m4a1

If you have the patience, I can describe a series of steps that will make your rear suspension job end well and quickly. This process takes about an hour with a lift. Once you understand the Watts setup requirements, it's a breeze. Basically, take the springs out, set it up, and put the springs back in. Otherwise you can futz about for hours trying to get the whole thing set up (ask me how I know).

Based on what you've said about your install, you'll have to back up a little bit. I've had mine apart now three times, and I have the same parts you have, so this is how I'd do it if I was starting today. Starting with the car in the air...:

1. Put garage jacks under the rear wheels, or put one under the pumpkin. Remove the lower bolts on the rear shocks and unbolt and release the brake line bracket from in front of each rear wheel. Then take the rear springs out. If you have to unhang the rear swaybar to do this, do so. All this stuff will get in your way because you need to be able to move the rear axle up and down at will to properly set up the Watts link.

2. Put the propeller on the frame and get your Watts arms ready to install - same length, etc. Install the driver's side arm on the propeller and put the propeller on the frame.

3. Put the drivers side bracket on the rear axle tube and hook up the arm.

4. Now jack the axle up into the bump stops. Measure the spacing from the drivers side spherical joint and lock nut to the over-axle exhaust pipe. You need a minimum gap of about 1/4 inch. Adjust the bracket to get this gap with the arm connected by the bolt. This process sets this bracket as high as it will go without producing an annoying clank every time you hit a bump.

5. Lower the axle back to your new static ride height and make sure it's exactly square under the chassis by measuring the ride height on both sides. You can, at this point, also use some kind of force to center the axle under the chassis. The first time I did mine, I was quite careful, but the second time I didn't bother and mine's now 1/8" off-center. Big deal.

6. Put the pax side arm side on the propeller, install the pax side bracket and hook up the arm. Then adjust the bracket so the arms are at the same angle. [Note: when you do this, insert spacer rings so the arms are at the same fore-aft angle as each other as well]. Torque both brackets in place and confirm that they didn't move when you did them up. At this point, the Watts link setup is actually complete - you've got the angles all set. Now you have to remove the propeller and the arms so you can reinstall the springs and bolt on the dampers.

8. Remove the center bolt from the propeller so you can lower the axle and install the springs again.

9. Jack the axle up a bit and hook up the propeller. Torque all of the Watts Link bolts and nuts as per instructions. It's finished.

10. Jack the axle up to normal ride height, or as close as you can get without tipping the car off your lift or stands. Connect the lower dampers and torque the bolts in place. Reinstall the brake line brackets and the rear sway bar as required.

Put the car on the ground. You're done.

m4a1mustang

Thanks JAJ for the advice. I got to work on it this morning before I had a chance to read.

I was able to get the arms to 0* and tightened everything up, keeping it all as still as possible. I think both arms shifted slightly to .3* on each side (equal but opposite angles), so I think I'm good to go.

Unfortunately I couldn't find a replacement nut for the front struts, so I am not going to get to those today. I am debating ordering some nuts or just taking the car to my local Mustang shop and let them deal with it. I kind of want them to look over the Watts link to make sure I did everything correctly.

I did take the car out with the rear shocks still set to full soft. Watts propeller in the center setting and and a set of fresh Michelin Pilot Super Sports (275/35 all around). The rear is definitely nicer over the bumps. The tires still have to be broken in so I am not going to say much for ultimate grip just yet, but they do feel good. The rear end definitely feels like it rotates a lot more. It's going to get a little seat time to get totally used to it, but from what I can tell so far everything feels good. Rear end is much more controlled under braking which is nice.

Now I just need to hurry up and get the fronts situated.

m4a1mustang

I set the rear shocks up one turn from full soft on another drive. Felt much better. I think I can do another turn and I should be in good shape. For reference, I'm talking in Koni speak, where one turn = 180 degrees.

Aside from the added composure of the rear end over irregular road surfaces, braking, and direction changes (it now feels as planted as if not more than my S2000), the thing just DIGS coming out of the corners. I know some of this is thanks in part to the super awesome Pilot Super Sports, but you can really feel the rear end articulating and just digging into the pavement. Gobs of forward bite. I can nearly get WOT in 2nd gear and still keep hooked up. And this is on corner exit, mind you.

I need to get the fronts situated so I can get everything dialed in. I am very low on free time for the next few weeks so I am going to give my local Mustang shop a call in the morning to see if they can take the car in this week to finish up the front and double-check my installation of the Watts link. I am sure they can get it perfectly aligned. Then I'll let things settle out and bring the car back the following week for an alignment.