Water Pump Replacement - 2013 GT
#1
Super Boss Lawman Member
Thread Starter
Water Pump Replacement - 2013 GT
Thursday, after running errands, I pulled the GT into its new garage bay at our new house and went inside. About 5 minutes later I stepped in the garage for something and smelled coolant. It seems the water pump decided t let go and dumped all of my coolant on the floor. At least it let me make it home.
How hard is it to replace the pump on a 2013 GT?
How hard is it to replace the pump on a 2013 GT?
#2
Legacy TMS Member
It's not *hard*. It's not exactly easy either, though, and it's definitely time consuming. You need all your tools, parts and materials ready to go. Here's the relevant shop manual pages:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=845&f=Coolant...205.0L.pdf&p=2
and
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=845&f=Thermos...20View.pdf&p=5
This shows you how it goes. Believe it or not, this *is* the instructions you get in the shop manual. Numbers *mostly* indicate what comes out first, second, etc.
So, here:
It's a video from CJ's to swap out a water pump pulley on a 2015, but it's the same idea, so you know how to get to the water pump and pulley. Then you go to the first link and remove things as shown. You can also see how the other stuff is on the car in the video too. I'd maybe take pictures as I went about takin' it apart, maybe...
Procedure in a nutshell (as gleaned from the shop manual):
Drain coolant.
Remove intake.
Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Do not remove.
Remove serpentine belt.
Remove water pump pulley, four bolts.
Remove heater outlet tube, one bolt. BE SURE to save the old or have ready a new o-ring for install.
Remove thermostat housing, second link. (Looks to me it's two bolts, and an upper spring clip/o-ring, and it should be able to be moved out of the way without completely removing it or messing with the actual thermostat...)
Remove water pump, four bolts.
Retain/replace (recommend replace) o-ring seal for the pump, new/'new' one may come with one.
Installation is reverse of removal. DO NOT forget to add coolant, and do it right. Here's the info:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=844&f=Cooling...20Bleeding.pdf
Regarding the 'removal' things up there... bare minimum 'removal' is just taking the part off the water pump or whatever and setting it aside somewhere out of the way, maybe with tie wraps even. Actual removal is not what I mean, unless it's just not going to let you do the job, of course... then it has to GO and be put back in later. That'll be your call when you get there.
Again... not *hard*, just... you'll have So. Much. Fun.
Hope that helps!
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=845&f=Coolant...205.0L.pdf&p=2
and
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=845&f=Thermos...20View.pdf&p=5
This shows you how it goes. Believe it or not, this *is* the instructions you get in the shop manual. Numbers *mostly* indicate what comes out first, second, etc.
So, here:
Procedure in a nutshell (as gleaned from the shop manual):
Drain coolant.
Remove intake.
Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Do not remove.
Remove serpentine belt.
Remove water pump pulley, four bolts.
Remove heater outlet tube, one bolt. BE SURE to save the old or have ready a new o-ring for install.
Remove thermostat housing, second link. (Looks to me it's two bolts, and an upper spring clip/o-ring, and it should be able to be moved out of the way without completely removing it or messing with the actual thermostat...)
Remove water pump, four bolts.
Retain/replace (recommend replace) o-ring seal for the pump, new/'new' one may come with one.
Installation is reverse of removal. DO NOT forget to add coolant, and do it right. Here's the info:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=844&f=Cooling...20Bleeding.pdf
Regarding the 'removal' things up there... bare minimum 'removal' is just taking the part off the water pump or whatever and setting it aside somewhere out of the way, maybe with tie wraps even. Actual removal is not what I mean, unless it's just not going to let you do the job, of course... then it has to GO and be put back in later. That'll be your call when you get there.
Again... not *hard*, just... you'll have So. Much. Fun.
Hope that helps!
Last edited by houtex; 11/11/18 at 01:35 AM.
#4
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Join Date: January 25, 2010
Location: Massachusetts
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If you have to replace it anyway, now might be a good time to consider a Meziere (sp?) electric water pump -- I am not sure exactly what is included or involved with that
#5
Legacy TMS Member
You spelled it correctly.
https://www.meziere.com/Products/Coo...le-pulley.aspx
At 1100 for 8-10 horsepower gain and .1 on the 1/4 mile, I'm sure that's something I'm not doing for my street Mustang, but hey, y'all do y'all!
https://www.meziere.com/Products/Coo...le-pulley.aspx
At 1100 for 8-10 horsepower gain and .1 on the 1/4 mile, I'm sure that's something I'm not doing for my street Mustang, but hey, y'all do y'all!
#6
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Location: Massachusetts
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yeah I thought I remembered that it was supposedly good for about 8-10 HP . . . which is more than we get from a lot of these mods, so if you're replacing the water pump anyway, seems like it would be worth a look . . . also I think that some of the track guys like them because they can leave it running between runs to cool things down
#8
Super Boss Lawman Member
Thread Starter
I finally had time to replace the pump today. It is a straightforward procedure but the ProCharger complicated to job. I was able to support it and disconnect the plumbing to the intercooler inlet, then remove the big mounting plate for it. After that, the pump itself was easy. Houtex's instructions were great and I appreciate his effort and the torque specs. I also replaced the belts while it was apart.
#10
Super Boss Lawman Member
Thread Starter
Now I just have to get past the phase of coolant smell making me check for leaks. Even after draining the system, a lot of coolant dumped when I pulled the pump out of the block, so I smell coolant while it dries up/burns off. I wiped things down as best I could while under the car.
Last edited by SpectreH; 11/19/18 at 12:14 PM.
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