Upper control arm. Which one to buy
Wellp. Steeda UCA is going in. The. Ford dealer gave me a totally reasonable quote of 1.2hours of labor so Im just having them do the job.
We're off to a bad start. The tech just asked me if this was for the right hand side.
We're off to a bad start. The tech just asked me if this was for the right hand side.
http://www.roushperformance.com/part...2011-2012.html
Last edited by silverstate777; May 20, 2014 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Add wheel hop link
What upper control arm should I get to remove wheel hop, I dont care how load it makes the car and if the road noise is increased. I am looking at the whiteline and Roush Rear Wheel Hop Reduction Kit. I already have the BMR lower control arms, but I stil have very bad wheel hop. I cant believe how bad the wheel hop is on there cars, it is horrible. I do NOT plan on lowering the car.
2014 GT TP 6 speed M
Thanks
2014 GT TP 6 speed M
Thanks
The Steeda adjustable UCA is a beautiful piece, makes the stock one look like it came out of the junk yard. The bushing is obviously much stiffer than the stock one too.
The Ford tech got his stuff together and figured out what had to be done. I chatted with him (and probably annoyed him
) while he worked...but it's hard to not be curious/interested when someone else is working on your car. It's a weird feeling. It quickly became clear that despite the mistake early on, he did know his stuff and he was very friendly.
So here are the results!
18,600 on the stock BBP Pirelli/summer tires (so...pretty near shot), 100% stock suspension. Originally the car wheel hopped most any time the tires broke traction. A real buzzkill.
After: It still wheelhops.
Fortunately, the new CA changed the frequency and amplitide of the hops. It's quite a bit less severe now and mostly hops when the tires are about to regain traction.
There is a bit more gear noise (from the diff...I hope) but the concerns about the car becoming noisey inside are overblown. The difference is small.
Was it worth the money? I think so. It did reduce the hop a bit and if I end up keeping this car, it will get a drop, at which point, the adjustibility will be invaluable.
The Ford tech got his stuff together and figured out what had to be done. I chatted with him (and probably annoyed him
) while he worked...but it's hard to not be curious/interested when someone else is working on your car. It's a weird feeling. It quickly became clear that despite the mistake early on, he did know his stuff and he was very friendly. So here are the results!
18,600 on the stock BBP Pirelli/summer tires (so...pretty near shot), 100% stock suspension. Originally the car wheel hopped most any time the tires broke traction. A real buzzkill.
After: It still wheelhops.
Fortunately, the new CA changed the frequency and amplitide of the hops. It's quite a bit less severe now and mostly hops when the tires are about to regain traction.
There is a bit more gear noise (from the diff...I hope) but the concerns about the car becoming noisey inside are overblown. The difference is small.
Was it worth the money? I think so. It did reduce the hop a bit and if I end up keeping this car, it will get a drop, at which point, the adjustibility will be invaluable.
So a few miles in, I'm noticing some weird stuff.
A bit of gear noise is what I expected...bit this thing clunks (or "knocks"?) over bumps and sometimes i can hear a soft "clack clack clack" sound reflecting back when im traveling at slow speeds.
Is this normal or could this be related to the UCA being too lose or the pinion angle being wrong?
The tech seemed to have the right tools and he specifically said that he set the arm to be the same length as the stock one.
A bit of gear noise is what I expected...bit this thing clunks (or "knocks"?) over bumps and sometimes i can hear a soft "clack clack clack" sound reflecting back when im traveling at slow speeds.
Is this normal or could this be related to the UCA being too lose or the pinion angle being wrong?
The tech seemed to have the right tools and he specifically said that he set the arm to be the same length as the stock one.
Last edited by MRGTX; May 25, 2014 at 07:26 AM.
So a few miles in, I'm noticing some weird stuff. A bit of gear noise is what I expected...bit this thing clunks (or "knocks"?) over bumps and sometimes i can hear a soft "clack clack clack" sound reflecting back when im traveling at slow speeds. Is this normal or could this be related to the UCA being too lose or the pinion angle being wrong? The tech seemed to have the right tools and he specifically said that he set the arm to be the same length as the stock one.
How much/what kind of noise is normal from an aftermarket UCA?
Just an update-
Upon giving a demo to a fellow gear head, I tried again and found that I was able to burn the tires straight through second gear with basically no hopping action to speak of.
So...it may still be condition-dependent but yestderday, it worked like magic.
Upon giving a demo to a fellow gear head, I tried again and found that I was able to burn the tires straight through second gear with basically no hopping action to speak of.
So...it may still be condition-dependent but yestderday, it worked like magic.
The condition of the road, weather, heat of the tires, and added weight in the car can all affect wheel hop. Sounds like you need to through a body or two in the trunk! Works for me!
The noise seems to depend mostly on how stiff the bushing is compared to stock. Stiffer is louder. Have you found the source of the clacks and clunks or have they subsided?
The noise seems to depend mostly on how stiff the bushing is compared to stock. Stiffer is louder. Have you found the source of the clacks and clunks or have they subsided?
I have read every message here and am wondering. I have a 13 GT, 6 spd stick, 3.73 gear. I have replaced the Panhard bar (adjustable) the upper support rod directly above panhard, the LCA's and I put Steeda ultralite lowering springs on. I did not use the relocation brackets, but have no wheel hop. I have NOT replaced the UCA. Here's my dilemma. I have a rattle when I go over bumpy streets at slow speeds. Everytime the rear hits a bump, there is a rattle. I have tightened EVERYTHING under the car, including mufflers, EXCEPT the UCA. I read that when lowering the vehicle, I should use relocation brackets for the LCA's. I have not. Could this be the cause of the rattle or could it be the cheap factory UCA? ANY help is grateful!
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