Rim/tire size input needed, please
11/24/13, 04:16 PM
#21
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
11/24/13, 04:19 PM
#22
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
Here is a good wheel/tire thread from SVTPerformance. A lot of good info and pics. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...re-thread.html
So far I'm drooling over forgestar f14s.... Omg. Gorgeous. Anyone know how much they are???
11/24/13, 04:31 PM
#23
Mach 1 Member
The F14's are my favorite too. Price will depend on size 19x10 around $390 19x11 $415ish.
11/24/13, 05:23 PM
#24
Banned
Join Date: July 4, 2012
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 2,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11/24/13, 05:44 PM
#25
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
11/24/13, 06:34 PM
#26
Legacy TMS Member
11/24/13, 06:50 PM
#27
Mach 1 Member
They are probably my favorite wheel, but yeah at 1600+tires, well that's why I still have my stockers. I may need to rethink how much I like them. The Avant Garde's look pretty good too and they are less expensive about $350 for a 19x11.
My problem is a Champagne taste and a beer budget, and I quickly nixed them Forgeline, IForge they are north of 1k a wheel. Then Forgestar, Velgen, and Vossens, they are in the 1600 range. Hopefully next year.
Didnt you just drop some serious coin on a SC? 1600 should be nothing lol.
I am buying an SC every semester with my son in college...
My problem is a Champagne taste and a beer budget, and I quickly nixed them Forgeline, IForge they are north of 1k a wheel. Then Forgestar, Velgen, and Vossens, they are in the 1600 range. Hopefully next year.
Didnt you just drop some serious coin on a SC? 1600 should be nothing lol.
I am buying an SC every semester with my son in college...
11/25/13, 04:15 AM
#28
Bullitt Member
As the saying goes "you wanna play you gotta pay" I have a Buddy that spent about $3K on CCW's and BFG's for his F-body. BTW American Muscle does have Forgestar packages.
11/25/13, 04:33 AM
#29
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
They are probably my favorite wheel, but yeah at 1600+tires, well that's why I still have my stockers. I may need to rethink how much I like them. The Avant Garde's look pretty good too and they are less expensive about $350 for a 19x11. My problem is a Champagne taste and a beer budget, and I quickly nixed them Forgeline, IForge they are north of 1k a wheel. Then Forgestar, Velgen, and Vossens, they are in the 1600 range. Hopefully next year. Didnt you just drop some serious coin on a SC? 1600 should be nothing lol. I am buying an SC every semester with my son in college...
I am buying an SC every semester with my son in college...But yes you're right, gotta pay to play. My sweet spot price is around $1500 total, delivered, rims and tires. Think that's possible?
11/25/13, 05:00 AM
#30
Bullitt Member
The Blackmamba wheels in the other thread look like a good fit to me. Their in good sizes with the correct offsets and are different enough to make a statement. Also if they become more widely available the price will likely drop.
11/25/13, 07:04 AM
#31
Shelby GT500 Member
If you buy the forgestars used, you'll have to pay for mounting of whatever tires you buy. As far as I know, there's no such thing as a sale price on competition street tires.
11/25/13, 10:35 AM
#32
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
I just looked up some wheel tire packages on AM... Sounds like I can get away with packages from 1400 all the way to 2500+. Not a fan of the amr rims, but might have to do. Falken or nittos for tires. Tsw nurburgrings are 2000 for a package. Then I have to add the TPMS kit, of course... Another 200. Jesus.
How much do the stock brembos/tires sell for??? I will need to sell mine!!!
How much do the stock brembos/tires sell for??? I will need to sell mine!!!
11/25/13, 11:02 AM
#33
Mach 1 Member
If you like your Brembo wheels you could have 2 of them widened. There was a thread some time back talking about that. Unless you looking at a square set up then the cost would be similar to a new set. I cant remember how much, but it was a couple hundred a wheel, plus shipping??
I think it is going to be a challenge to find tires and wheels for 15 to 1600 for the kind of rubber you are going to need on the rear. I'm assuming you are looking at 19x10, 10.5, or 11's on the rear, and a 9 or 9.5 in front.
I think it is going to be a challenge to find tires and wheels for 15 to 1600 for the kind of rubber you are going to need on the rear. I'm assuming you are looking at 19x10, 10.5, or 11's on the rear, and a 9 or 9.5 in front.
11/25/13, 11:02 AM
#34
Legacy TMS Member
I just looked up some wheel tire packages on AM... Sounds like I can get away with packages from 1400 all the way to 2500+. Not a fan of the amr rims, but might have to do. Falken or nittos for tires. Tsw nurburgrings are 2000 for a package. Then I have to add the TPMS kit, of course... Another 200. Jesus.
How much do the stock brembos/tires sell for??? I will need to sell mine!!!
How much do the stock brembos/tires sell for??? I will need to sell mine!!!
Sold the others on eBay for $315 each w/free shipping.
Ended up clearing about $240 per, after eBay fees, PayPal fees, and shipping cost.
But that was $720 back in my pocket.
And that was more than I would've gotten on the forums.
Don't bother buying a TPMS sensor activation tool. The car will learn the sensors as long as they're the right ones for the car.
Tire Rack sells sensors for 40 each, I believe.
11/25/13, 11:06 AM
#35
Legacy TMS Member
Weldcraft.com was the place to widen wheels. I got a quote of $250-300 per wheel, including shipping to/from them.
11/25/13, 11:20 AM
#36
Mach 1 Member
Z, you might check with Jay - Hyperperformance, maybe he can hook you up with a package.
Black Friday/Cyber Monday are close. There should be some deals coming.
11/25/13, 12:50 PM
#37
Mach 1 Member
Black Fire offers a lot of really great information…Although I do disagree with this: “Staggered is more for straight line it doesn't handle as well as a square setup because the wider rear wheels/tires induce more understeer.” I can think of more great sports car and purpose built race cars with staggered set ups than those that are square. As he points out, the staggered set up needs to be considered when rebalancing the chassis. When done correctly, there is a decided advantage in a staggered set up. Hopefully you take no offense to my input Back Fire!
Burton, some thoughts you may want to consider:
1) The larger the wheel and tire package you opt for will increase in weight proportionally. Increasing un-sprung weight is the enemy!!! Pay close attention to that. For wide 19” and all 20” I would definitely go with a lightweight forged wheel. Yeah, it’s going to cost you a bundle but the performance gains are real and you will feel it every time you drive the car.
2) The 315 number (As an example) refers to the tires tread width. HOWEVER, it’s not necessarily the tires widest point. Although very close, in most cases it’s not in a properly fitted wheel/tire combo. If you go with a super wide tire like a 315, make sure the sidewalls and shoulders fit in the tighter areas! Keep in mind this will vary some from manufacture to manufacture. For instance and as an example, where a 315 Nitto 555 may fit perfectly well with no rubbing, a Michelin Pilot SS could rub, or vice versa.
3) Wider tires will cause you to notice cupped roads more than narrower tires and can be annoying at times. Fact of life and not much can be done about it.
4) If you go with a staggered set up and there is a significant difference between the front tires tread width and the rear tires tread width, IF you desire a consistent sidewall height, you need to reduce the aspect ratio of the wider tire to reduce the sidewall height to more closely match the narrower tire. The inverse also works if you prefer a greater sidewall height.
5) Don’t be fooled, low aspect ratio tires, and I don’t care which brand, ride much stiffer and rougher than those with a greater ratio number. Among other things, tires are in effect pneumatic springs. The trade of is greater precision and predictability in handling and cornering. In the ultimate performance world, tires are very carefully considered in the best overall spring and damper package for the car. In other words, change the tires radically enough, reaping the greatest rewards from them may require a spring damper package…again, this is for top performance.
6) Most performance R/T (Road and Track) tires have very soft compound. They are not going to last real long so having the ability to rotate is not super important provided you maintain a very good four wheel alignment on your car. To get best tire life you will likely have to deviate from the stock camber adjustment (Yup, you’re going to need CC plates if you don’t already have them) to reduce inner shoulder wear to an acceptable rate. Understand this will slightly compromise high speed cornering since more load will be placed on the outer shoulder of the tire under those circumstances. The trade-off is at normal corning speeds and straight line driving the tire runs much flatter on the road surface causing it to wear much more even over its entire surface.
7) GOOD R/T tires are sticky…they toss a lot of trash up off the road. Proper protection of the paint and body panels is essential if you want to keep that Kona Beast looking sweet.
Just some things I learned over the years, at the track and on the street, over the years. Yours to consider!
Regards,
John
Burton, some thoughts you may want to consider:
1) The larger the wheel and tire package you opt for will increase in weight proportionally. Increasing un-sprung weight is the enemy!!! Pay close attention to that. For wide 19” and all 20” I would definitely go with a lightweight forged wheel. Yeah, it’s going to cost you a bundle but the performance gains are real and you will feel it every time you drive the car.
2) The 315 number (As an example) refers to the tires tread width. HOWEVER, it’s not necessarily the tires widest point. Although very close, in most cases it’s not in a properly fitted wheel/tire combo. If you go with a super wide tire like a 315, make sure the sidewalls and shoulders fit in the tighter areas! Keep in mind this will vary some from manufacture to manufacture. For instance and as an example, where a 315 Nitto 555 may fit perfectly well with no rubbing, a Michelin Pilot SS could rub, or vice versa.
3) Wider tires will cause you to notice cupped roads more than narrower tires and can be annoying at times. Fact of life and not much can be done about it.
4) If you go with a staggered set up and there is a significant difference between the front tires tread width and the rear tires tread width, IF you desire a consistent sidewall height, you need to reduce the aspect ratio of the wider tire to reduce the sidewall height to more closely match the narrower tire. The inverse also works if you prefer a greater sidewall height.
5) Don’t be fooled, low aspect ratio tires, and I don’t care which brand, ride much stiffer and rougher than those with a greater ratio number. Among other things, tires are in effect pneumatic springs. The trade of is greater precision and predictability in handling and cornering. In the ultimate performance world, tires are very carefully considered in the best overall spring and damper package for the car. In other words, change the tires radically enough, reaping the greatest rewards from them may require a spring damper package…again, this is for top performance.
6) Most performance R/T (Road and Track) tires have very soft compound. They are not going to last real long so having the ability to rotate is not super important provided you maintain a very good four wheel alignment on your car. To get best tire life you will likely have to deviate from the stock camber adjustment (Yup, you’re going to need CC plates if you don’t already have them) to reduce inner shoulder wear to an acceptable rate. Understand this will slightly compromise high speed cornering since more load will be placed on the outer shoulder of the tire under those circumstances. The trade-off is at normal corning speeds and straight line driving the tire runs much flatter on the road surface causing it to wear much more even over its entire surface.
7) GOOD R/T tires are sticky…they toss a lot of trash up off the road. Proper protection of the paint and body panels is essential if you want to keep that Kona Beast looking sweet.
Just some things I learned over the years, at the track and on the street, over the years. Yours to consider!
Regards,
John
11/25/13, 01:18 PM
#38
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
If you like your Brembo wheels you could have 2 of them widened. There was a thread some time back talking about that. Unless you looking at a square set up then the cost would be similar to a new set. I cant remember how much, but it was a couple hundred a wheel, plus shipping??
I think it is going to be a challenge to find tires and wheels for 15 to 1600 for the kind of rubber you are going to need on the rear. I'm assuming you are looking at 19x10, 10.5, or 11's on the rear, and a 9 or 9.5 in front.
I think it is going to be a challenge to find tires and wheels for 15 to 1600 for the kind of rubber you are going to need on the rear. I'm assuming you are looking at 19x10, 10.5, or 11's on the rear, and a 9 or 9.5 in front.
I kept one of my Brembo wheels as a spare tire/wheel since Ford didn't include one.
Sold the others on eBay for $315 each w/free shipping.
Ended up clearing about $240 per, after eBay fees, PayPal fees, and shipping cost.
But that was $720 back in my pocket.
And that was more than I would've gotten on the forums.
Don't bother buying a TPMS sensor activation tool. The car will learn the sensors as long as they're the right ones for the car.
Tire Rack sells sensors for 40 each, I believe.
Sold the others on eBay for $315 each w/free shipping.
Ended up clearing about $240 per, after eBay fees, PayPal fees, and shipping cost.
But that was $720 back in my pocket.
And that was more than I would've gotten on the forums.
Don't bother buying a TPMS sensor activation tool. The car will learn the sensors as long as they're the right ones for the car.
Tire Rack sells sensors for 40 each, I believe.
Yeah not sure if I'll do ebay or sell on this forum, but I bet there will be some folks here who would buy by near flawless stock Brembo set with only 7k meticulous miles that have never seen rain
What you guys think as far as how much is a good price to sell? $850 plus shipping for the whole set???Gabe, as far as TPMS, for example, if I buy a package from American Muscle, they will mount tires on, so that means, I HAVE to buy the TPMS set from them. Otherwise, I'd have to get the tires unmounted, mount the TPMS then balance again… I'd rather just pay the $200 bucks upfront and have everything mounted once.
Cool Thanks Gabe. That is the price of a good new wheel. I would have to really like the wheel to go that route.
Z, you might check with Jay - Hyperperformance, maybe he can hook you up with a package.
Black Friday/Cyber Monday are close. There should be some deals coming.
Z, you might check with Jay - Hyperperformance, maybe he can hook you up with a package.
Black Friday/Cyber Monday are close. There should be some deals coming.
Jay, if you're there, shoot me a pm please, for a staggered set in 20's, with tires and TPMS mounted, for TSW Nurburgrings.
Black Fire offers a lot of really great information…Although I do disagree with this: “Staggered is more for straight line it doesn't handle as well as a square setup because the wider rear wheels/tires induce more understeer.” I can think of more great sports car and purpose built race cars with staggered set ups than those that are square. As he points out, the staggered set up needs to be considered when rebalancing the chassis. When done correctly, there is a decided advantage in a staggered set up. Hopefully you take no offense to my input Back Fire!
Burton, some thoughts you may want to consider:
1) The larger the wheel and tire package you opt for will increase in weight proportionally. Increasing un-sprung weight is the enemy!!! Pay close attention to that. For wide 19” and all 20” I would definitely go with a lightweight forged wheel. Yeah, it’s going to cost you a bundle but the performance gains are real and you will feel it every time you drive the car.
2) The 315 number (As an example) refers to the tires tread width. HOWEVER, it’s not necessarily the tires widest point. Although very close, in most cases it’s not in a properly fitted wheel/tire combo. If you go with a super wide tire like a 315, make sure the sidewalls and shoulders fit in the tighter areas! Keep in mind this will vary some from manufacture to manufacture. For instance and as an example, where a 315 Nitto 555 may fit perfectly well with no rubbing, a Michelin Pilot SS could rub, or vice versa.
3) Wider tires will cause you to notice cupped roads more than narrower tires and can be annoying at times. Fact of life and not much can be done about it.
4) If you go with a staggered set up and there is a significant difference between the front tires tread width and the rear tires tread width, IF you desire a consistent sidewall height, you need to reduce the aspect ratio of the wider tire to reduce the sidewall height to more closely match the narrower tire. The inverse also works if you prefer a greater sidewall height.
5) Don’t be fooled, low aspect ratio tires, and I don’t care which brand, ride much stiffer and rougher than those with a greater ratio number. Among other things, tires are in effect pneumatic springs. The trade of is greater precision and predictability in handling and cornering. In the ultimate performance world, tires are very carefully considered in the best overall spring and damper package for the car. In other words, change the tires radically enough, reaping the greatest rewards from them may require a spring damper package…again, this is for top performance.
6) Most performance R/T (Road and Track) tires have very soft compound. They are not going to last real long so having the ability to rotate is not super important provided you maintain a very good four wheel alignment on your car. To get best tire life you will likely have to deviate from the stock camber adjustment (Yup, you’re going to need CC plates if you don’t already have them) to reduce inner shoulder wear to an acceptable rate. Understand this will slightly compromise high speed cornering since more load will be placed on the outer shoulder of the tire under those circumstances. The trade-off is at normal corning speeds and straight line driving the tire runs much flatter on the road surface causing it to wear much more even over its entire surface.
7) GOOD R/T tires are sticky…they toss a lot of trash up off the road. Proper protection of the paint and body panels is essential if you want to keep that Kona Beast looking sweet.
Just some things I learned over the years, at the track and on the street, over the years. Yours to consider!
Regards,
John
Burton, some thoughts you may want to consider:
1) The larger the wheel and tire package you opt for will increase in weight proportionally. Increasing un-sprung weight is the enemy!!! Pay close attention to that. For wide 19” and all 20” I would definitely go with a lightweight forged wheel. Yeah, it’s going to cost you a bundle but the performance gains are real and you will feel it every time you drive the car.
2) The 315 number (As an example) refers to the tires tread width. HOWEVER, it’s not necessarily the tires widest point. Although very close, in most cases it’s not in a properly fitted wheel/tire combo. If you go with a super wide tire like a 315, make sure the sidewalls and shoulders fit in the tighter areas! Keep in mind this will vary some from manufacture to manufacture. For instance and as an example, where a 315 Nitto 555 may fit perfectly well with no rubbing, a Michelin Pilot SS could rub, or vice versa.
3) Wider tires will cause you to notice cupped roads more than narrower tires and can be annoying at times. Fact of life and not much can be done about it.
4) If you go with a staggered set up and there is a significant difference between the front tires tread width and the rear tires tread width, IF you desire a consistent sidewall height, you need to reduce the aspect ratio of the wider tire to reduce the sidewall height to more closely match the narrower tire. The inverse also works if you prefer a greater sidewall height.
5) Don’t be fooled, low aspect ratio tires, and I don’t care which brand, ride much stiffer and rougher than those with a greater ratio number. Among other things, tires are in effect pneumatic springs. The trade of is greater precision and predictability in handling and cornering. In the ultimate performance world, tires are very carefully considered in the best overall spring and damper package for the car. In other words, change the tires radically enough, reaping the greatest rewards from them may require a spring damper package…again, this is for top performance.
6) Most performance R/T (Road and Track) tires have very soft compound. They are not going to last real long so having the ability to rotate is not super important provided you maintain a very good four wheel alignment on your car. To get best tire life you will likely have to deviate from the stock camber adjustment (Yup, you’re going to need CC plates if you don’t already have them) to reduce inner shoulder wear to an acceptable rate. Understand this will slightly compromise high speed cornering since more load will be placed on the outer shoulder of the tire under those circumstances. The trade-off is at normal corning speeds and straight line driving the tire runs much flatter on the road surface causing it to wear much more even over its entire surface.
7) GOOD R/T tires are sticky…they toss a lot of trash up off the road. Proper protection of the paint and body panels is essential if you want to keep that Kona Beast looking sweet.
Just some things I learned over the years, at the track and on the street, over the years. Yours to consider!
Regards,
John
And I don't mind if the sticky tires don't last long… I only put a couple thousand miles max a year on them.
11/25/13, 02:12 PM
#39
Bullitt Member
Black Fire offers a lot of really great information…Although I do disagree with this: “Staggered is more for straight line it doesn't handle as well as a square setup because the wider rear wheels/tires induce more understeer.” I can think of more great sports car and purpose built race cars with staggered set ups than those that are square. As he points out, the staggered set up needs to be considered when rebalancing the chassis. When done correctly, there is a decided advantage in a staggered set up. Hopefully you take no offense to my input Back Fire!
Burton, some thoughts you may want to consider:
1) The larger the wheel and tire package you opt for will increase in weight proportionally. Increasing un-sprung weight is the enemy!!! Pay close attention to that. For wide 19” and all 20” I would definitely go with a lightweight forged wheel. Yeah, it’s going to cost you a bundle but the performance gains are real and you will feel it every time you drive the car.
2) The 315 number (As an example) refers to the tires tread width. HOWEVER, it’s not necessarily the tires widest point. Although very close, in most cases it’s not in a properly fitted wheel/tire combo. If you go with a super wide tire like a 315, make sure the sidewalls and shoulders fit in the tighter areas! Keep in mind this will vary some from manufacture to manufacture. For instance and as an example, where a 315 Nitto 555 may fit perfectly well with no rubbing, a Michelin Pilot SS could rub, or vice versa.
3) Wider tires will cause you to notice cupped roads more than narrower tires and can be annoying at times. Fact of life and not much can be done about it.
4) If you go with a staggered set up and there is a significant difference between the front tires tread width and the rear tires tread width, IF you desire a consistent sidewall height, you need to reduce the aspect ratio of the wider tire to reduce the sidewall height to more closely match the narrower tire. The inverse also works if you prefer a greater sidewall height.
5) Don’t be fooled, low aspect ratio tires, and I don’t care which brand, ride much stiffer and rougher than those with a greater ratio number. Among other things, tires are in effect pneumatic springs. The trade of is greater precision and predictability in handling and cornering. In the ultimate performance world, tires are very carefully considered in the best overall spring and damper package for the car. In other words, change the tires radically enough, reaping the greatest rewards from them may require a spring damper package…again, this is for top performance.
6) Most performance R/T (Road and Track) tires have very soft compound. They are not going to last real long so having the ability to rotate is not super important provided you maintain a very good four wheel alignment on your car. To get best tire life you will likely have to deviate from the stock camber adjustment (Yup, you’re going to need CC plates if you don’t already have them) to reduce inner shoulder wear to an acceptable rate. Understand this will slightly compromise high speed cornering since more load will be placed on the outer shoulder of the tire under those circumstances. The trade-off is at normal corning speeds and straight line driving the tire runs much flatter on the road surface causing it to wear much more even over its entire surface.
7) GOOD R/T tires are sticky…they toss a lot of trash up off the road. Proper protection of the paint and body panels is essential if you want to keep that Kona Beast looking sweet.
Just some things I learned over the years, at the track and on the street, over the years. Yours to consider!
Regards,
John
Burton, some thoughts you may want to consider:
1) The larger the wheel and tire package you opt for will increase in weight proportionally. Increasing un-sprung weight is the enemy!!! Pay close attention to that. For wide 19” and all 20” I would definitely go with a lightweight forged wheel. Yeah, it’s going to cost you a bundle but the performance gains are real and you will feel it every time you drive the car.
2) The 315 number (As an example) refers to the tires tread width. HOWEVER, it’s not necessarily the tires widest point. Although very close, in most cases it’s not in a properly fitted wheel/tire combo. If you go with a super wide tire like a 315, make sure the sidewalls and shoulders fit in the tighter areas! Keep in mind this will vary some from manufacture to manufacture. For instance and as an example, where a 315 Nitto 555 may fit perfectly well with no rubbing, a Michelin Pilot SS could rub, or vice versa.
3) Wider tires will cause you to notice cupped roads more than narrower tires and can be annoying at times. Fact of life and not much can be done about it.
4) If you go with a staggered set up and there is a significant difference between the front tires tread width and the rear tires tread width, IF you desire a consistent sidewall height, you need to reduce the aspect ratio of the wider tire to reduce the sidewall height to more closely match the narrower tire. The inverse also works if you prefer a greater sidewall height.
5) Don’t be fooled, low aspect ratio tires, and I don’t care which brand, ride much stiffer and rougher than those with a greater ratio number. Among other things, tires are in effect pneumatic springs. The trade of is greater precision and predictability in handling and cornering. In the ultimate performance world, tires are very carefully considered in the best overall spring and damper package for the car. In other words, change the tires radically enough, reaping the greatest rewards from them may require a spring damper package…again, this is for top performance.
6) Most performance R/T (Road and Track) tires have very soft compound. They are not going to last real long so having the ability to rotate is not super important provided you maintain a very good four wheel alignment on your car. To get best tire life you will likely have to deviate from the stock camber adjustment (Yup, you’re going to need CC plates if you don’t already have them) to reduce inner shoulder wear to an acceptable rate. Understand this will slightly compromise high speed cornering since more load will be placed on the outer shoulder of the tire under those circumstances. The trade-off is at normal corning speeds and straight line driving the tire runs much flatter on the road surface causing it to wear much more even over its entire surface.
7) GOOD R/T tires are sticky…they toss a lot of trash up off the road. Proper protection of the paint and body panels is essential if you want to keep that Kona Beast looking sweet.
Just some things I learned over the years, at the track and on the street, over the years. Yours to consider!
Regards,
John
My comment was towards those that go the staggered route and don't bother to tune the chassis and suspension to take advantage of the extra grip. The Boss cars come with wider rear wheels/tires and a larger rear swaybar to compensate.
11/25/13, 05:04 PM
#40
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
Also, a cheaper way to get away with this is to just fit 275/40/19 drag radials/or really sticky summer tires out back... Over the stock brembo rims (19x9). Stock tires all around are 255/40/19, right?
I'm just thinking of the poor mans solution to grip. Lol. How wide a tire can fit over the stock brembo 19x9s?
I'm just thinking of the poor mans solution to grip. Lol. How wide a tire can fit over the stock brembo 19x9s?