2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

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Old 10/2/11 | 12:58 PM
  #61  
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New rules defining the cold-flow requirements of SAE viscosity grades (SAE J300) became effective in June 2001. The auto manufacturers were afraid that modern injection systems might allow the engine to start at temperatures lower than the oil could flow into the oil pump. [Which would increase cold start wear.] Consequently, the new rules had a thinning effect on oil.

Thinner oils have less drag, and therefore less friction and wear. Right? Perhaps in the test engine or engines that experience normal operation. But somewhat thicker oils may offer more protection for more severe operations such as driving through mountains, pulling a boat, dusty conditions, short trips, high rpm, overloading, overheating and overcooling. ["May" = guess. If you are driving in constant severe conditions, take appropriate measures. MOST Mustang owners are not in constant severe conditions.]

Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. [Same is true at cold start ups.] As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.
In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. .....
If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture. [Your engine is overheating why? With the properly maintained cooling system and the quicker heat dispensing ability of 5w-20 vs 5w-30, there should be no reason your Mustang is overheating. And higher viscosity oil retains heat longer - so that counteracts the cooling system.]

To determine if SAE 5W-20 oils provide the same level of protection as SAE 5W-30 oils, Dagenham Motors in England, one of the largest Ford dealers in Europe, was consulted. [That comment substantiates absolutely nothing. Speculation.]

As wear increases, the efficiency of an engine declines. Valve train wear slightly changes valve timing and movement. Ring and liner wear affect compression. .... Efficiency continues to decline as wear progresses.
Certainly engines that have experienced significant ring and liner wear benefit from thicker oils. Thicker oil use results in compression increases, performance improvements and reduced oil consumption. [True - but its referring to high mileage engines.]

Every fluid is a compromise. Oils recommended by the auto manufacturers seem to compromise protection from wear under severe conditions to gain fuel economy and catalyst durability.

** Thicker oils also compromise cold temperature flow, which may be of concern depending upon climate and season. [Don't ya'll get winter up there in Canada? We sure do here in Oregon and most of the US. Here in S. OR Cascades, its mid 40's(F) on most all summer mornings. Again, cold starts are where most wear takes place. Plus higher viscosity oil takes longer to get the engine up to optimum operating temperature - so the longer it takes to get the oil flowing better to the OHC valve train.]

The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker .... [Complete speculation - no facts provided.]

The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, ... [EXACTLY!]
Is this it? That's all? This is what you and Everett are basing your entire argument on??

No offense, but there is nothing here that documents 5w-20 does not protect your 4.6 or 5.0 used in normal driving conditions. Like I said - internet rumor.

And that article is mighty old. [Machinery Lubrication (7/2003)] Manufacturing tolerences have continued to improve since then. Hell the 3V SOHC head wasn't even designed or in production yet, much less the new 5.0.

The article also fails to note the quicker heat dissipation of the aluminum block in the Mustang vs the longer heat retention of a cast iron block. Major fail. Cast iron could bolster their argument for higher viscosity whereas an all aluminum engine bolsters Ford's spec for 5w-20.

Used as a system, the Ford factory recommended 5w-20 Synthetic Blend (synth plus dino) - with the specified Motorcraft filter, with a properly maintained cooling system, is completely dependable for overall operation and longevity. And the millions of miles on the tried and true dependable 4.6 (Mustang & F150) proves it.

Last edited by cdynaco; 10/2/11 at 01:40 PM.
Old 10/2/11 | 01:02 PM
  #62  
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
Originally Posted by newpony
Cdynaco,

You are wrong!!! Ford doesn't care about engine longevity. Is not like they have a reputation, one they worked so hard to improve in the recent years, to protect. I mean if all Ford engines break down around 100,000 miles, do you think people are going to start buying from the competition instead? You crazy.
My '83 F150 4x has 253k on the odometer. Broke a ring at 218k so dropped in a new engine. It has yanked stumps, skidded logs, carried tons of hay at a time over the pass, hauled cords and cords of firewood over the years, yanked larger trucks out of the deep winter snow here, driven many a freeway mile from here to the Bay area @65-70.

You're the one that's crazy.

Get back to me when you actually have some miles and experience - and can provide FACTS - rather than repeating internet blabber about stuff you know nothing about.


Last edited by cdynaco; 10/2/11 at 01:20 PM.
Old 10/2/11 | 02:17 PM
  #63  
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This thread is getting crazy. People can use what they want. In the end, Ford has to do what they're told by the regulators. Let them install what they have to on the assembly line then once we buy the cars, we're free to do what we want. You either mod and don't care about warranty and all that stuff or you play it safe and follow the manual to the letter. Either way, I think it's safe to say we all love Mustangs.
Old 10/2/11 | 02:52 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by newpony
You are wrong!!! Ford doesn't care about engine longevity.
This made me :ROFL2:
Old 10/2/11 | 03:12 PM
  #65  
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"Attempt to sarcasm, failed I have"
Old 10/4/11 | 06:31 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Big Poppa
The FL820 from just looking at the picture appears to be the better filter. Did your dealer give you a reason why it wasn't intended for use with the GT? Just because it wasn't intended for use doesn't exactly mean it shouldn't be. If the FL820 is a better filter I see no problem with using it.
Was at the stealership again today and asked if i could use the FL820 filter on the Five OH, and wasn't given an answer as to why it was not recommended by Ford. Go figure, different internals, flow pattern, anti- drainback valve differences.

Originally Posted by cdynaco






No answer?
I didn't answer cuz obviously i didn't have an answer for ya'.......
On a side note, was at the stealership today and happened to see the synthetic Motorcraft 5W20 on special. So i grabbed a case of those !
Old 10/4/11 | 07:39 PM
  #67  
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I wouldn't even think twice about using it.
Old 10/4/11 | 08:40 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by montreal ponies

Was at the stealership again today and asked if i could use the FL820 filter on the Five OH, and wasn't given an answer as to why it was not recommended by Ford. Go figure, different internals, flow pattern, anti- drainback valve differences.

I didn't answer cuz obviously i didn't have an answer for ya'.......
On a side note, was at the stealership today and happened to see the synthetic Motorcraft 5W20 on special. So i grabbed a case of those !
820 can be used. It's not a common question at the dealership and I can promise you no service adviser will know the answer
Old 10/4/11 | 09:37 PM
  #69  
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As anyone with a 5.0 ever used the FL820 filter !
Old 10/4/11 | 10:01 PM
  #70  
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
Originally Posted by newpony
"Attempt to sarcasm, failed I have"
Sorry. I didn't catch the humous.

However, I think this is my F150's crowning achievement (at 252k & 27 yrs old). The Squeeze got stock in the soft mud up to its axles at the end of the barn before heading in. There was just enough room for my pickup (with the mirrors tucked in) to slip between it and the barn's corner post.

I hooked up the tow chain, dropped it in 2nd gear 4x Low, revved up the Big 6, and started yankin. On the 3rd or 4th try it pulled the Squeeze out of the mud. A cube of hay is approx 3 1/4 tons plus the weight of the Squeeze.

Ford tough baby!


.
Attached Thumbnails Oil Filter-hay.3-2010-w.jpg   Oil Filter-hay.5-2010-w.jpg  
Old 10/4/11 | 10:04 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by montreal ponies
On a side note, was at the stealership today and happened to see the synthetic Motorcraft 5W20 on special. So i grabbed a case of those !
I need to do that!
Old 10/4/11 | 10:09 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by texastboneking

820 can be used. It's not a common question at the dealership and I can promise you no service adviser will know the answer
Do you recommend one over the other? 820 or 500?
Old 10/4/11 | 10:12 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by phiggs54
Do you recommend one over the other? 820 or 500?
Well i guess the 820 is the better flowing one, but then again, i could be wrong. I'll ask the audience again: has anyone ever used a FL820 filter with their 5.0 !
Old 10/4/11 | 10:34 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by phiggs54

Do you recommend one over the other? 820 or 500?
I do. the 500 is sufficient enough but the 820 is added protection.

Tell you what. Go buy one of each... Cut them open. And look at the internals... The biggest differance you will see is. More filter media in the 820.

Two 5.0s in texas running the filters with no issues yet.
Old 10/4/11 | 10:47 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by texastboneking

I do. the 500 is sufficient enough but the 820 is added protection.

Tell you what. Go buy one of each... Cut them open. And look at the internals... The biggest differance you will see is. More filter media in the 820.

Two 5.0s in texas running the filters with no issues yet.
Good job, you just voided your powertrain warranty. LOL
Old 10/4/11 | 11:23 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by 11SHELBYGT500

Good job, you just voided your powertrain warranty. LOL
Lol our dealer isn't that stingy. We would warranty a failure
Old 11/24/11 | 12:57 PM
  #77  
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I'm pretty late with this one, but anyone out there using a Hastings Premium filter? I'll be changing to one of the Group IV base oils...
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