Yeaaaah, if that's what your buyer's order says, then you're paying no more than $100 off MSRP, if that according to what you've said. Okay, let's see...

First, the deposit is always refundable. Some dealers will try to tell you otherwise. They are wrong, and while I've never had to deal with it personally, I've heard the quickest way to do it is to threaten legal action as a last resort.

Second, you do not have to buy this car from this dealer. You are under no obligation. At this stage, the dealer is stuck with the order, but this can work to your advantage, because no matter what they're getting that car, and if you don't buy it, they'll have to try to sell it to someone else. You can get quotes from other dealers (this is the best thing), even note what you've heard people have been paying for it, then go back to the negotiating table with this dealer. See if they're willing to come off the price, noting these things. They'll probably tell you that it will take longer for you to get the car from someone else, and undoubtedly you are excited to get it, but don't let that phase you, tell them that you'd happily wait a a few more weeks if you had to to get the better deal.

Third, here's the dealer invoice of your car. Your order is pretty similar to mine, so I just added up the component totals of what you had.

2011 GT Coupe Premium: $30,265
Rapid Spec 401A: $344
3.73 Limited Slip Axle: $344
Brembo Brake Package: $1475
Misc Charges (I assume these are going to be the same, I know delivery is: EDAF, Fuel, Delivery): $1,381.60
Total Invoice: $33,809.60

That should give you a reasonable ballpark figure for what you should be paying. Keep in mind this doesn't include the dealer service fee (tends to run between 200 and 400) or taxes.

If they won't give you the deal you want, you can still walk (don't forget your deposit!) and go to a different dealer if one quoted you better. There's always the dealers that lurk on these forums too, don't forget, and they give pretty good deals, love Mustangs, and let you know very quickly on things like VINs, production dates, and delivery estimates.

As for trade ins, yeah, ECI is probably right about that. They can try to fudge the numbers if you negotiate with a trade-in in mind. Negotiate the price first. Your trade-in (if you have one) should have NO bearing on that.

Last, but not least, good luck.

(Of course it looks like you've already left, so yeah, good luck! Pardon my wall of text.)

 

First you should build it on Ford's website and get yourself familiarized with the prices for the options you want. Also, find the price list on here and pull a calculator out and figure out what the invoice price is for said vehicle. Now you have a starting point. Make some calls and file some e-mail inquiries and see what they give you in return. You'll see right away who wants to sell a car and who doesn't.

 

the last dealer i went into started off with $500 over invoice, im sure u can get at least that good, as some have said 500 under invoice would be awesome

 

It depends on the state you live in if a deposit is refundable. In most states it *is* refundable. I don't know when/if the Retail Verification program is going away, but once it does, you'll have one less bargaining chip. Orders will be charged against dealer allocation, so they'll be looking to make at least some money off the sale. $300.00 over/under invoice I suspect would be hard to get in that case.

 

citation needed?

 

Wow guys, im really really greatful for all of your suggestions and words of wisdom regarding my current predicament. Im going to try to use these in good judgement and look for the best possible deal i can get my hands on, no matter what. now that i have direction and a game plan its time to put it to work. again i appreciate everyone taking the time to help me out. you guys rock. ill be sure to post any victories i come across.
-ps if the is such a dealer "lurking about" (lol) and wants to shoot me a quote, please pm me. peace.

 

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