Clunk when starting from a stop
#21
I believe the GT500 uses a one piece carbon fiber DS. So why the two piece in the GT? I did eliminate 90% of the clunck with the one piece. I however picked up more NVH , some is from the poly bushings in the UCA. I could shift without the clunk before the install but sooner or later the clunk would happen if my timing was not right on with the clutch and throttle.
Both my F150 and my Bullitt have the 3.73s with the Bullitt having the GT500KR Traction-Lok diff and the increased throttle response. I have zero clunk whether in city, stop & go freeway traffic, or on a rough dirt road, unless I drive like a douchebag.
The 1/4 mile dirt road into my ranch is extremely bumpy with large holes and I take it slow in 1st gear - where clunk would be easiest to get. But I disengage the clutch a millisecond before I let off the accelerator and tap the brakes. The only noise I occasionally hear are the clutch packs working due to the uneven large holes.
I never realized I had such superior driving skills over other Mustang drivers. lol
#22
I think you misunderstood. I didn't specify the harshness of my driving style, but I thought that being able to get the clunk by simply pushing the car with my body was indicative of how little force it took. I guess we both made some assumptions.
I have been easing off the accelerator and coasting or dabbing the brakes. A very light acceleration afterwards will result in a loud clunk. It's all under circumstances that should be well within normal operation (unless any decel in gear is considered outside normal operation.)
Hopefully that's more clear. Thanks for the help.
I have been easing off the accelerator and coasting or dabbing the brakes. A very light acceleration afterwards will result in a loud clunk. It's all under circumstances that should be well within normal operation (unless any decel in gear is considered outside normal operation.)
Hopefully that's more clear. Thanks for the help.
#23
I would take most engineers statements with their understanding to be correct. I worked with engineers for over 36 years as I am one. In a room or meeting almost always each had a different conclusion on solving a problem or why a design is the way it is. Again the GT500 is a one piece so I guess in a rear collision their safety would be compromised. I believe the two piece is more for NVH among other manufacturing overhead reasons. Your are right about you being able to shift with zero clunk but I would be surprised if you can do it 100% of the time and never get the noise that most are complaining about.
#24
Again the GT500 is a one piece so I guess in a rear collision their safety would be compromised.
Your are right about you being able to shift with zero clunk but I would be surprised if you can do it 100% of the time and never get the noise that most are complaining about.
Your are right about you being able to shift with zero clunk but I would be surprised if you can do it 100% of the time and never get the noise that most are complaining about.
My hunch would be that the carbon fiber would shatter. Judging from F1 incidents. But I'm just guessing you prob would know better.
Well I double clutch on all downshifts out of habit so my right foot is as well trained as my left foot to take up slack in the drive train or let it go before a clunk occurs.
Last edited by cdynaco; 6/18/14 at 03:54 PM.
#26
Got it fixed!
From further testing, I was starting to get confident that it wasn't the gears or the driveshaft because I was able to get a delay between starting moving and the noise, which should take up any slack that would've produced the noise.
It ended up being the UCA. Mine's adjustable and one of the jam nuts had worked itself loose. Pretty quick fix. Thanks for the help guys.
From further testing, I was starting to get confident that it wasn't the gears or the driveshaft because I was able to get a delay between starting moving and the noise, which should take up any slack that would've produced the noise.
It ended up being the UCA. Mine's adjustable and one of the jam nuts had worked itself loose. Pretty quick fix. Thanks for the help guys.
#28
NOT CURRENTLY ACTIVE ON THIS SITE! DO NOT USE PM FEATURE!
Joined: October 25, 2010
Posts: 5,279
Likes: 16
From: Dearborn, MI
Got it fixed!
From further testing, I was starting to get confident that it wasn't the gears or the driveshaft because I was able to get a delay between starting moving and the noise, which should take up any slack that would've produced the noise.
It ended up being the UCA. Mine's adjustable and one of the jam nuts had worked itself loose. Pretty quick fix. Thanks for the help guys.
From further testing, I was starting to get confident that it wasn't the gears or the driveshaft because I was able to get a delay between starting moving and the noise, which should take up any slack that would've produced the noise.
It ended up being the UCA. Mine's adjustable and one of the jam nuts had worked itself loose. Pretty quick fix. Thanks for the help guys.
Deysha
#29
Got it fixed!
From further testing, I was starting to get confident that it wasn't the gears or the driveshaft because I was able to get a delay between starting moving and the noise, which should take up any slack that would've produced the noise.
It ended up being the UCA. Mine's adjustable and one of the jam nuts had worked itself loose. Pretty quick fix. Thanks for the help guys.
From further testing, I was starting to get confident that it wasn't the gears or the driveshaft because I was able to get a delay between starting moving and the noise, which should take up any slack that would've produced the noise.
It ended up being the UCA. Mine's adjustable and one of the jam nuts had worked itself loose. Pretty quick fix. Thanks for the help guys.
<B) Assuming its not something major like suspension dragging the ground >
#30
I have manuals and automatics all my life. Cars with One piece DS and two piece DS it does not matter. Drive line slack is in all of them. The auto mask it the manuals make it loader. If it is that loud get it looked at. That way Ford has a record of it. My manuals all of mine made a really loud clunk if I went on and off the gas. I was really young when I had my first and it was fun to get on and off the gas LOL.
The 3.73 and 4.11 will make it very bad. I had a race car with 4.56's and it was sever when you went on and off the gas. The more bushings you change to neoprine or stronger material the worse it will get.
Get it looked at. Then enjoy the car..
The 3.73 and 4.11 will make it very bad. I had a race car with 4.56's and it was sever when you went on and off the gas. The more bushings you change to neoprine or stronger material the worse it will get.
Get it looked at. Then enjoy the car..
Last edited by Jazzman442; 6/24/14 at 03:37 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post