Car Covers or Not
#1
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Car Covers or Not
My 2011 with P zeros is not going to be driven in the winter (mid Dec - Mid March) here in New England. I will start it occasionally to keep the battery charged, etc.
I have checked with Covercraft and they make covers for the 2011. They recommend their "Noah" material for harsh winters.
I have used a car cover on another car a few years back and ended up getting scratches on its corners, probably from the wind and dirt that eventually diffused through the cover. This was admittedly a cheap cover not designed for the car, but even the Noah material is not completely waterproof. If any dirt does manage to get through it, the car is going to be impossible to clean in the middle of the winter.
I was wondering if anybody on this forum has used a car cover outside through a harsh winter and can relate their experiences with it?
One other option I am considering is to just leave it uncovered.
I have checked with Covercraft and they make covers for the 2011. They recommend their "Noah" material for harsh winters.
I have used a car cover on another car a few years back and ended up getting scratches on its corners, probably from the wind and dirt that eventually diffused through the cover. This was admittedly a cheap cover not designed for the car, but even the Noah material is not completely waterproof. If any dirt does manage to get through it, the car is going to be impossible to clean in the middle of the winter.
I was wondering if anybody on this forum has used a car cover outside through a harsh winter and can relate their experiences with it?
One other option I am considering is to just leave it uncovered.
#2
Bullitt Member
My 2011 with P zeros is not going to be driven in the winter (mid Dec - Mid March) here in New England. I will start it occasionally to keep the battery charged, etc.
I have checked with Covercraft and they make covers for the 2011. They recommend their "Noah" material for harsh winters.
I have used a car cover on another car a few years back and ended up getting scratches on its corners, probably from the wind and dirt that eventually diffused through the cover. This was admittedly a cheap cover not designed for the car, but even the Noah material is not completely waterproof. If any dirt does manage to get through it, the car is going to be impossible to clean in the middle of the winter.
I was wondering if anybody on this forum has used a car cover outside through a harsh winter and can relate their experiences with it?
One other option I am considering is to just leave it uncovered.
I have checked with Covercraft and they make covers for the 2011. They recommend their "Noah" material for harsh winters.
I have used a car cover on another car a few years back and ended up getting scratches on its corners, probably from the wind and dirt that eventually diffused through the cover. This was admittedly a cheap cover not designed for the car, but even the Noah material is not completely waterproof. If any dirt does manage to get through it, the car is going to be impossible to clean in the middle of the winter.
I was wondering if anybody on this forum has used a car cover outside through a harsh winter and can relate their experiences with it?
One other option I am considering is to just leave it uncovered.
Like anything else, you need to "invest" in a good quality car cover that is designed for your car and most importantly, allows it to breathe. Another trick is to clamp it down snug using clamps.
Expect to pay between $250 - $400 for a good quality car cover.
Hopes this helps...Lou
#3
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I put my Mustang away every winter and here are a few tips for you:
1. As you have already eluded to, keep it covered. A good quality cover will not scratch your finish as long as it's secured properly.
2. Fill the gas tank, and use a fuel stabilizer... gas will start to break down pretty quickly.
3. DON'T start it until the beginning of spring. There is no reason to periodically start your car during the winter months. I would much rather give my engine one full-cold start than many as it sits.
4. Pull the battery and store it in the house. Keeping it in a warmer area and disconnected will keep it from going dead over the winter months.
5. Change the oil first thing in the spring because there will be some condensation that will accumulate in the engine as it sits over the winter.
1. As you have already eluded to, keep it covered. A good quality cover will not scratch your finish as long as it's secured properly.
2. Fill the gas tank, and use a fuel stabilizer... gas will start to break down pretty quickly.
3. DON'T start it until the beginning of spring. There is no reason to periodically start your car during the winter months. I would much rather give my engine one full-cold start than many as it sits.
4. Pull the battery and store it in the house. Keeping it in a warmer area and disconnected will keep it from going dead over the winter months.
5. Change the oil first thing in the spring because there will be some condensation that will accumulate in the engine as it sits over the winter.
#4
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Or at least put it on a battery tender. Starting it periodically to "keep the battery charged" is a fools errand and hard on everything.
#5
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Thanks for all the help!
Sounds like a good cover is the way to go. Has anybody used the Noah material?
I was also thinking about a battery tender because with the battery removed the alarm systems are obviously out. Somebody here at worked mentioned there are some that plug into the cigarette lighter, even some that are solar powered (portable). I agree more harm than good will come from starting it periodically.
Sounds like a good cover is the way to go. Has anybody used the Noah material?
I was also thinking about a battery tender because with the battery removed the alarm systems are obviously out. Somebody here at worked mentioned there are some that plug into the cigarette lighter, even some that are solar powered (portable). I agree more harm than good will come from starting it periodically.
#6
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Thanks for all the help!
Sounds like a good cover is the way to go. Has anybody used the Noah material?
I was also thinking about a battery tender because with the battery removed the alarm systems are obviously out. Somebody here at worked mentioned there are some that plug into the cigarette lighter, even some that are solar powered (portable). I agree more harm than good will come from starting it periodically.
Sounds like a good cover is the way to go. Has anybody used the Noah material?
I was also thinking about a battery tender because with the battery removed the alarm systems are obviously out. Somebody here at worked mentioned there are some that plug into the cigarette lighter, even some that are solar powered (portable). I agree more harm than good will come from starting it periodically.
I've had several Noah covers. It's a nice material. You can rig a battery tender to charge through the cig. lighter if it's on all the time with key off....I recall the Mustang is switched though. Just use alligator clips right to the battery..
#7
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I've been thinking about picking up a cover and parking the Mustang as soon as salt hits the ground up here in the Northeast. I've got a 94 Explorer to knock around with in the winter, so I'd be fine w/ driving.
I'll be paying attention to this thread.
I'll be paying attention to this thread.
#8
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I put my Mustang away every winter and here are a few tips for you:
1. As you have already eluded to, keep it covered. A good quality cover will not scratch your finish as long as it's secured properly.
2. Fill the gas tank, and use a fuel stabilizer... gas will start to break down pretty quickly.
3. DON'T start it until the beginning of spring. There is no reason to periodically start your car during the winter months. I would much rather give my engine one full-cold start than many as it sits.
4. Pull the battery and store it in the house. Keeping it in a warmer area and disconnected will keep it from going dead over the winter months.
5. Change the oil first thing in the spring because there will be some condensation that will accumulate in the engine as it sits over the winter.
1. As you have already eluded to, keep it covered. A good quality cover will not scratch your finish as long as it's secured properly.
2. Fill the gas tank, and use a fuel stabilizer... gas will start to break down pretty quickly.
3. DON'T start it until the beginning of spring. There is no reason to periodically start your car during the winter months. I would much rather give my engine one full-cold start than many as it sits.
4. Pull the battery and store it in the house. Keeping it in a warmer area and disconnected will keep it from going dead over the winter months.
5. Change the oil first thing in the spring because there will be some condensation that will accumulate in the engine as it sits over the winter.
I have the oil changed in the fall right before storage to get the blow-by tainted oil out, rather than letting those acids & gunk sit all winter.
I fill up with Sta-Bil added and park it - about Nov 1 to late April when they finally stop spreading cinders.
Even though I'm in a garage, I use my Costco/Cover King custom fit cover.
I have not had any battery issues, so no charger.
I start 3-4 times throughout winter (about once per month) so the seals get lubricated and oil gets pumped throughout. I drive slowly in 1st gear to the mailboxes (about 1/2 mile round trip) to help it get warmer vs simply idling, and this also lubricates the seals in the diff.
I turn on the A/C to keep seals lubricated.
I keep the engine running until the fan comes on - which therefore the exhaust system is hot enough to evaporate any moisture.
Last edited by cdynaco; 9/8/10 at 04:32 PM.
#9
I keep my car inside, but I still use a car cover. Helps keep it clean. I start it once a month and drive it around the subdivision (not salted) to keep seals lubricated and to keep the tires from flat-spotting. I don't shut it off until the engine reaches operating temperature. I also put Sta-Bil in the fuel, but haven't had the need for a battery tender. One thing to keep in mind if the car is stored outside is to not sit in the car to start it if you have leather interior. Reach in (yeah, the clutch can be tricky) and start it, then don't get back in and sit down until the car has reached operating temperature (with the heater on). This lets the leather warm up before you sit in it, and it will be less likely to crack.
#10
Cobra Member
My concern is dried out seals from sitting too long.
I have the oil changed in the fall right before storage to get the blow-by tainted oil out, rather than letting those acids & gunk sit all winter.
I fill up with Sta-Bil added and park it - about Nov 1 to late April when they finally stop spreading cinders.
Even though I'm in a garage, I use my Costco/Cover King custom fit cover.
I have not had any battery issues, so no charger.
I start 3-4 times throughout winter (about once per month) so the seals get lubricated and oil gets pumped throughout. I drive slowly in 1st gear to the mailboxes (about 1/2 mile round trip) to help it get warmer vs simply idling, and this also lubricates the seals in the diff.
I turn on the A/C to keep seals lubricated.
I keep the engine running until the fan comes on - which therefore the exhaust system is hot enough to evaporate any moisture.
I have the oil changed in the fall right before storage to get the blow-by tainted oil out, rather than letting those acids & gunk sit all winter.
I fill up with Sta-Bil added and park it - about Nov 1 to late April when they finally stop spreading cinders.
Even though I'm in a garage, I use my Costco/Cover King custom fit cover.
I have not had any battery issues, so no charger.
I start 3-4 times throughout winter (about once per month) so the seals get lubricated and oil gets pumped throughout. I drive slowly in 1st gear to the mailboxes (about 1/2 mile round trip) to help it get warmer vs simply idling, and this also lubricates the seals in the diff.
I turn on the A/C to keep seals lubricated.
I keep the engine running until the fan comes on - which therefore the exhaust system is hot enough to evaporate any moisture.
#11
Mach 1 Member
before i had my house and 2 car garage, i had to store my cars outside...and granted the winters are not as harsh here in MD, we did have snow and wind. i used a carcraft car cover for outdoors and secured it well on all sides. if you go with just the single tie down you will be in trouble. i tied it in front, back middle and went longways so the cover could not blow off. did not start them and wiped the snow off when it snowed so it wasnt laying on them the whole time. as long as there is some airflow and the cover can breath. if everything is done right your car should not be damaged and will get minimal dirt. just a wipe off with detailer was all i had to do when i removed the cover.
#12
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I have asked for a quote for a simple carport on the side of the house. If it comes in at a reasonable price, that might be the way to go.
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