bigaaron

First time post -Well not really a barn find, but i parked my 1994 mustang gt in my sisters barn about 7 years ago. Ran great when parked and i recently purchased a home with a nice garage so my project is getting this car back on the road. Car is bone stock and i dont mind it that way seeing how it is a convertible - onto my scenario. Got it home, cleaned it out - no rust etc, but the engine is stuck. Pulled the belt and already i need to replace some accessories, but back to the stuck engine. i pulled the plugs and loaded with marvels mystery oil; been soaking a week. I used a strap wrench and can turn the crank 2-3 inches, but it stops and i do not want to force it. I was thinking of changing the oil and filter, pulling the distributor and priming the engine. Following questions may be simple, but i am unsure.
Obviously I cannot get to TDC so i plan to mark the rotor and the distributor as references to install after priming. Anyone see any issue with this? After purchasing the priming tool and running the pump ccw (plan on doing daily for a few weeks) can i over pressurize the system if i prime too long? i do not plan on taking the valve covers off. When installing the distributor it will be unlikely the oil pump shaft will not be in the same position. Will this affect the timimg? i dont think so, but i am unsure. Any insight is grateful.

houtex

Howdy, and welcome aboard!

This is interesting:
This tells me the engine is likely freed up and ready to go. You've already done the mystery oil, so hit it. If you want to prime it, do it once and then start the cranking. When you consider the amount of turning that crank's gonna do, and how much stuff moves around, if you turned the crank pully 2-3 inches... it ain't seized.

It's probably stopping on a compression stroke, so if you take out the plugs, I bet it moves just fine by hand.

As far as your questions:

1) Marking the distributor and rotor, AND the engine/intake, that's a fine method. Just be sure the rotor's not 180 when you put it back in, because that can happen. Car won't run, but if you get it spinning, you can TDC everything and get it right. This also applies to the last questions about timing and such. I'd say get it spinning, TDC the engine, stab the distributor, and then time it and yer good.

Here's a video for ya:

And another:

2) You don't need to keep priming, IMO. You need to do it once, because all you're doing is getting oil where it needs to be. You run it in a normal priming session, and that'd be it. Doing it more than that shouldn't be required. And as far as the over pressure... if it's over pressured, then the system is broken, and you should be pulling the engine. However, it's best if you pull at least one valve cover so you can see the oil getting to the topside, and then you'll know for sure the engine's primed with the oil.

With all that priming and such... I don't see why the engine'd stop movin' if it moved at all. Unless, again, there's something really wrong with it.

Only one way to find out, right?

Good luck, dunno if I helped or not!

bigaaron

Thanks Houtex - plugs have been out a few weeks (for the soaking) and still only a few inches on the crank. I wonder because the soaking only happens above the piston not below; I hope the Marvel Oil creeps, that is why I was going to prime it. Maybe something else is stuck. For verification when I run the oil pump through the distributor hole that should not move the crank?

houtex

It will not. Good to go for priming.

I hope it frees up for you, truly! Good luck!

bigaaron

on another note one of accessories frozen was the smog pump. I tried wd-40 to no avail, but I ran across a product in a specialty bolt store called" Free All" frealloil . com and within 1 minute was spinning free. Be made aware this stuff is 8 bucks a can

Jim74656

If you need good penetration fluid (this us good for bolts and things like that) a 50/50 mix of synthetic atf and acetone will help, works better then on blaster and kroil, as for the engine if your able to turn it it in not seized at all

kennyg

You could have some rust in the cylinders. When you parked it some valves could have remained open and moisture crept in. Have you attempted rotating back the other way and then forward again to see if you gain any rotation? If it's light rust it might clean off but forcing it could result in broken rings or lands, the groove in the piston. Since you've kept it this long and it's all original, you'll want to keep the option of pulling it and tearing down for inspection open.