SN95 Mustang 1994-2004 Mustangs Member Tech & Restoration Discussion

Pete's 2000 GT

Old Mar 13, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #481  
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Originally Posted by cntchds
Trust me. I know that feeling.
Thats the only reason I'm glad your old car is gone sometimes lol.

Comfy though...


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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 09:25 AM
  #482  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
Look on SVTP and corral, cobraterritory. He's an old high school "friend" has a 2000 BAB "Fobra" with all 03 Cobra parts and a supercharged 2v.
I've seen that car, it is pretty awesome.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 09:33 AM
  #483  
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You should have the Cobra letters shaved. It looks so good! Nice and smooth.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
You should have the Cobra letters shaved. It looks so good! Nice and smooth.
TWSS!
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:59 PM
  #485  
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Originally Posted by edumspeed

TWSS!
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #486  
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Easier said than done. With paint costing as much as it does, I'm just appreciative for them painting it once. I can't ask them to paint it again, and I can't afford to paint it.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #487  
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I had a new idea. I have found that buying a Cobra or Mach motor is only slightly less expensive than buying a reman'ed stock 2v and a supercharger using that $1500 kit. I think that may even be more "practical" since it needs less additional parts to install, and either way I would need to get it tuned so that's a bit of a wash.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 05:27 PM
  #488  
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that could be tight. you might even recoup a bit of that from selling your used motor
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 02:45 AM
  #489  
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The places I have found who sell reman'ed motors want the core back, so there is no recoup, but the shipping is free both ways. Looked pretty sweet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remanufactured-4-6-Ford-Long-Block-Engine-/290879631448?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2000%7CModel%3AMustang%7CSubmodel%3AGT&hash=item43b9c6f058&vxp=mtr
3 year unlimited mile warranty on the motor if you send your core back.

Bolt on the old intake (gaskets are included with the motor) strap on that supercharger kit, and tow it to the dyno.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 10:57 AM
  #490  
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not bad at all...

BOOOOST hurry up and does this
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 10:50 PM
  #491  
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I say ditch it while you can and buy the Mach in azure blue!

A boosted stock 2v won't make too much power and will blow fairly low... like 400 rwhp or something
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 12:09 PM
  #492  
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Mach motor & trans for sale on M1R . . .

2003 mach1 engine and 5 sp trans 10k miles phx as $3500.00
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...d.php?t=127104
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 06:55 PM
  #493  
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I wish I could do that right now. I'm a lifeguard instructor, so I don't really get regular paychecks throughout the year. Just a big one when I teach a class. That looks perfect... Too bad I guess.
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #494  
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Originally Posted by cpotts13
A boosted stock 2v won't make too much power and will blow fairly low... like 400 rwhp or something
400 RWHP sounds like a whole lot compared to the 260 I have at the flywheel right now and the ~270RWHP of a Mach. A Mach motor would be really nice with the 4v, but I would need the cooling setup as well and the wiring requires a tune to use the GT comp. It would be worth it for a low price/low mile example like the one E_C posted, but I keep seeing them go for the engine alone at about 4k.

I'm thinking that the new/reman'd GT motor is my go-to decision right now so I can just drop it in and go, even if I didn't get an S/C right away, and then slap that on later. I'm just really tired of getting 15-16mpg right now.

What do you guys think the problem is anyway? I figure it must be rings... If it was head gaskets again I would get to them while doing the rings anyway... I just don't think I have the time to rip my engine that far apart and put it all back together between work, school, and this possible internship.
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #495  
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valve seals have been a consistent problem we've been dealing with on 2v motors. I have 3 2v motors at work that have been burning oil. 2 are getting new longblocks, one is getting new heads
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #496  
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Is the price on the one I listed consistent with what I should pay for a reman'ed long block? Can valve seals be replaced without pulling the heads or am I being too hopeful?
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 03:54 AM
  #497  
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That's within range. IIRC, the Motorcraft reman's are around $3k with a 3/36k warranty that's good at any Ford dealer. The stipulation on that is the labor. If something goes wrong with it while you're in the 3/36 window, Ford covers the labor provided a Ford dealer installed the engine.

You can do valve seals without removing the but it is a ***** to do. You have to rotate the engine to where the valves are close, pressurize the combustion chamber with air, and then you can remove the valve seals. Repeat for each cylinder. Personally, I'd get a spare set of PI's off cafords, rebuild those with new valves, seals and springs, get some port work done and blam! All good!
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #498  
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I just hate pulling the heads. I would probably rather swap the motor than have to yank the heads and then have it end up being the rings and have to do it all again. The warranties are a good incentive to go that route too.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #499  
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Put the old motor in the Dakota
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 06:46 PM
  #500  
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Originally Posted by future9er24
Put the old motor in the Dakota
Where have you been? The Dakota got towed away about a year ago.
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