Painting window switch plates
5/28/06, 08:49 PM
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Painting window switch plates
Before this site was renovated, there was a thread on painting switch plates from which I was inspired. I am no artist but I wanted to give this a try and extend the idea. I got spare switch plates from my local Ford dealer and some spray paint (Krylon for plastics). What to paint - Driver side: a little tribute to one of my favorite bands, INXS (saw their show recently, and their latest album, "Switch", is great from beginning to end - and having a tribute on a "switch" plate was fitting). Passenger side: I love the tri-bar and the pony.
Here are some pics installed. I still have the original switch plates (they are a little pricy considering to get the plate, I had to order the whole assembly, that is the plate, the actual switch and the piece below the switch plate).
I had fun, learned from it, and the results, in my opinion, didn't come out terrible. It provides for some uniqueness and a sense of accomplishment.
Here are some pics installed. I still have the original switch plates (they are a little pricy considering to get the plate, I had to order the whole assembly, that is the plate, the actual switch and the piece below the switch plate).
I had fun, learned from it, and the results, in my opinion, didn't come out terrible. It provides for some uniqueness and a sense of accomplishment.
5/29/06, 07:05 AM
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I saw the same thread.
I have down the switch plates with a silver that matches the vent deflectors, strictly by luck.
I used Dupli-Color w/a clear over the silver and then used a 1000 grit to knock some shine off and smooth them down.
Now all that stick on stuff is coming off and those parts will be painted.
When comparing the painted to the stick on I wonder why I didn't think about it before.
I had done this on my truck before bedause there wasn't any add on stuff.
I have down the switch plates with a silver that matches the vent deflectors, strictly by luck.
I used Dupli-Color w/a clear over the silver and then used a 1000 grit to knock some shine off and smooth them down.
Now all that stick on stuff is coming off and those parts will be painted.
When comparing the painted to the stick on I wonder why I didn't think about it before.
I had done this on my truck before bedause there wasn't any add on stuff.
5/29/06, 09:07 AM
#5
Now that is using your creative juices......congratulations for trying something different.....they look great
5/29/06, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Spirit
Before this site was renovated, there was a thread on painting switch plates from which I was inspired. I am no artist but I wanted to give this a try and extend the idea. I got spare switch plates from my local Ford dealer and some spray paint (Krylon for plastics). What to paint - Driver side: a little tribute to one of my favorite bands, INXS (saw their show recently, and their latest album, "Switch", is great from beginning to end - and having a tribute on a "switch" plate was fitting). Passenger side: I love the tri-bar and the pony.
Here are some pics installed. I still have the original switch plates (they are a little pricy considering to get the plate, I had to order the whole assembly, that is the plate, the actual switch and the piece below the switch plate).
I had fun, learned from it, and the results, in my opinion, didn't come out terrible. It provides for some uniqueness and a sense of accomplishment.
Here are some pics installed. I still have the original switch plates (they are a little pricy considering to get the plate, I had to order the whole assembly, that is the plate, the actual switch and the piece below the switch plate).
I had fun, learned from it, and the results, in my opinion, didn't come out terrible. It provides for some uniqueness and a sense of accomplishment.
5/29/06, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HiRoller
that looks great!! how do you remove the switchplates??
It was quite simple, from an earlier post before this forum was renovated, I asked the same question. I used my fingers and pulled the switch plate up, gently and gradually, at the tip. Then did the same at the other end. What helped alot was that I bought the switch plate assembly from Ford and that gave me a good idea of where to force and how the thing would come apart. I also practiced. Here are pictures of the assembly, inside and out.
Explanation of photos:
dscn00634: back end, two top clips go into the door (two others not visible)
dscn00635: switch plate assembly upside, four clips pointing toward camera go into the door. Two clips pointing upward belong to the switch plate. The switch housing/electrical connector is just off center of the photo.
dscn00636: switch plate (upside) removed from lower body.
dscn00637: switch plate over the lower body. Just a push and both will be fixed.
A note about the switch housing/electrical connector: the actual switch was delicate than removing the switch plate. See photo dscn00638. I used a flat screwdriver (I used a small screwdriver, like the ones jewellers use) to widen the gap so that the notches were free, pulled up gently on the electrical connector. I did it gradually, loosened one side. For the passenger side, there are three of these notches. In the end it went well, simpler than I expected.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
5/29/06, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by redbullet
I saw the same thread.
I have down the switch plates with a silver that matches the vent deflectors, strictly by luck.
I used Dupli-Color w/a clear over the silver and then used a 1000 grit to knock some shine off and smooth them down.
Now all that stick on stuff is coming off and those parts will be painted.
When comparing the painted to the stick on I wonder why I didn't think about it before.
I had done this on my truck before bedause there wasn't any add on stuff.
I have down the switch plates with a silver that matches the vent deflectors, strictly by luck.
I used Dupli-Color w/a clear over the silver and then used a 1000 grit to knock some shine off and smooth them down.
Now all that stick on stuff is coming off and those parts will be painted.
When comparing the painted to the stick on I wonder why I didn't think about it before.
I had done this on my truck before bedause there wasn't any add on stuff.
Though the switch assemblies were a little pricy ($70.00 CDN each), it was worth the adventure, and I have spare driver side and passenger side switch plate assembly, I can always switch back to the original dark charcoal. If only Ford would sell the switch plate by itself.
I used Krylon paint, for plastics. I was encouraged by the words on the spray can: No Runs, No Drips, No Errors.
The colors I used were: All-Purpose White (I had also gotten Satin White, but forgot I had it until now), Patriotic Blue, Pepper Red, Chrome, and a clear acrylic finish. The aluminum color was Dull Aluminum, it matched well the vents.
For the writing and outline and some touchup, I used Sharpie permanent marker.
5/30/06, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nole_trainer
Hey, I wasn't jokin' about buying a set
You willing to make me a set of the tri-bar's with the outline??
You willing to make me a set of the tri-bar's with the outline??Let me know, I can post the steps I took, it was actually quite straightforward.
5/30/06, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Spirit
I really did this for myself and wanted to share the outcome with other Mustang owners. Hopefully some are encouraged to undertake some projects themselves to make their car stand out.
Let me know, I can post the steps I took, it was actually quite straightforward.
Let me know, I can post the steps I took, it was actually quite straightforward.
I guess it will give me something to do this weekend......
5/31/06, 07:28 PM
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Here goes, a step by step account of doing the passenger side tri-bar pony switch plate (with some talk on the driver side switch plate).
1. Supplies: appropriate color paints. Krylon spray paint for plastics. Following colors: Dull Aluminum, Patriot Blue, Pepper Red, Satin White, Satin Black and "Make it Last! Clear acrylic sealer". I also had Chrome spray paint (more on this later). I had Sharpie permanent markers (black and silver metal). Masking tape. Transparent, adhesive book cover (sticky on one side, it is removable), precision exacto knife (photo dscn0649). Newspaper. And a few beers. (In general, I followed the instructions on the paint cans regarding drying and handling). I also had some black plastic junk to test out paint technique and lettering.
2. I ordered switch plates from Ford dealer. I took a picture of the switch plate, and photochopped initial designs. I also used chalk to draw a potential design on the plate itself. Chalk was easy to remove.
3. I didn't sand or anything, unless you want a smooth surface. I like the texture of the stock plates.
4. Clean the plates.
5. I applied a coat of Dull Aluminum. Let dry and then another coat, until uniform even color. The color matched pretty well the IUP vents.
6. I prepared templates for the INXS and Pony logos.
a. I searched the internet for the logos, printed them out to the right size, and cut them out using the knife. (photo dscn0647 shows the paper cutouts)
b. Given the I, N and S are black and the X is red, I had two templates. For the pony, only one template. I also made a template for the star.
c. Then using the cutout paper logos, I basically overlayed the logos on top of the adhesive plastic film and cut out the form on the plastic film. Photo dscn0646 shows the cutout of the adhesive plastic - note they are now covered in paint and can be reused to some extent if needed. You will note in the photo, cutouts for the area within leg area of the pony, to block out the paint so that you can still see the tri-bar.
7. I was ready to apply the plastic film on the switch plate at the desired location.
8. Newspaper was used to shield the switch plate from paint so only the template got spray painted.
Some notes:
a. The tri-bar was simple, I drew straight lines (with a ruler and pencil) and then used masking tape along those lines. Spray painted the desired area and color, let dry, and then applied masking tape to prepare the next bar. Each bar is about 3/4 inches.
b. The bars run from one side of the switch plate to the other side. One thing I learned was that I may have been too generous on the paint, I noticed when the pony was painted chrome, I could see the red/white/blue was one layer over the dull aluminum, and the part of the pony painted over the red/white/blue layer, was higher than the part of the pony painted on the dull aluminum. (If I had to redo this, I would have ensured that the pony and the tri-bar were on the same layer, a little more involved given now the tri-bar would be done in two parts - lesson learned).
c. I didn't like the chrome spray paint. I was all nice and shiny when it dried. However, the slightest rub on the chrome turned it dull and dark gray. What I did and turned out okay was use the Sharpie silver metal marker to add some texture in the pony, like the eye, the ear, and the outline of the front and back thighs, it was subtle. The previous photos don't pick that up. If I redid the pony, I would have used dull aluminum and rely on the black outline to make the pony stand out. I also thought of spray painting the pony the color of my car, Windveil blue.
9. I used the black permanent marker to trace the outline of the tri-bar and pony.
10. Finally, when I was happy with the look, I applied a few coats of the sealer. A note on the sealer, on one of my junk plastic, I wrote some letters using black Sharpie permanent marker. Excessive sealer resulted in the lettering to run (i.e. don't hold the can in one place too long). To prevent this on the switch plate, I applied the sealer in several quick passes, letting it dry a little before applying the next pass.
Hopefully that helps. There is no doubt there are better techniques out there. Those with airbrushes and skill and experience, I am sure can do wonders and high quality designs.
Let your imagination go and take your time!
1. Supplies: appropriate color paints. Krylon spray paint for plastics. Following colors: Dull Aluminum, Patriot Blue, Pepper Red, Satin White, Satin Black and "Make it Last! Clear acrylic sealer". I also had Chrome spray paint (more on this later). I had Sharpie permanent markers (black and silver metal). Masking tape. Transparent, adhesive book cover (sticky on one side, it is removable), precision exacto knife (photo dscn0649). Newspaper. And a few beers. (In general, I followed the instructions on the paint cans regarding drying and handling). I also had some black plastic junk to test out paint technique and lettering.
2. I ordered switch plates from Ford dealer. I took a picture of the switch plate, and photochopped initial designs. I also used chalk to draw a potential design on the plate itself. Chalk was easy to remove.
3. I didn't sand or anything, unless you want a smooth surface. I like the texture of the stock plates.
4. Clean the plates.
5. I applied a coat of Dull Aluminum. Let dry and then another coat, until uniform even color. The color matched pretty well the IUP vents.
6. I prepared templates for the INXS and Pony logos.
a. I searched the internet for the logos, printed them out to the right size, and cut them out using the knife. (photo dscn0647 shows the paper cutouts)
b. Given the I, N and S are black and the X is red, I had two templates. For the pony, only one template. I also made a template for the star.
c. Then using the cutout paper logos, I basically overlayed the logos on top of the adhesive plastic film and cut out the form on the plastic film. Photo dscn0646 shows the cutout of the adhesive plastic - note they are now covered in paint and can be reused to some extent if needed. You will note in the photo, cutouts for the area within leg area of the pony, to block out the paint so that you can still see the tri-bar.
7. I was ready to apply the plastic film on the switch plate at the desired location.
8. Newspaper was used to shield the switch plate from paint so only the template got spray painted.
Some notes:
a. The tri-bar was simple, I drew straight lines (with a ruler and pencil) and then used masking tape along those lines. Spray painted the desired area and color, let dry, and then applied masking tape to prepare the next bar. Each bar is about 3/4 inches.
b. The bars run from one side of the switch plate to the other side. One thing I learned was that I may have been too generous on the paint, I noticed when the pony was painted chrome, I could see the red/white/blue was one layer over the dull aluminum, and the part of the pony painted over the red/white/blue layer, was higher than the part of the pony painted on the dull aluminum. (If I had to redo this, I would have ensured that the pony and the tri-bar were on the same layer, a little more involved given now the tri-bar would be done in two parts - lesson learned).
c. I didn't like the chrome spray paint. I was all nice and shiny when it dried. However, the slightest rub on the chrome turned it dull and dark gray. What I did and turned out okay was use the Sharpie silver metal marker to add some texture in the pony, like the eye, the ear, and the outline of the front and back thighs, it was subtle. The previous photos don't pick that up. If I redid the pony, I would have used dull aluminum and rely on the black outline to make the pony stand out. I also thought of spray painting the pony the color of my car, Windveil blue.
9. I used the black permanent marker to trace the outline of the tri-bar and pony.
10. Finally, when I was happy with the look, I applied a few coats of the sealer. A note on the sealer, on one of my junk plastic, I wrote some letters using black Sharpie permanent marker. Excessive sealer resulted in the lettering to run (i.e. don't hold the can in one place too long). To prevent this on the switch plate, I applied the sealer in several quick passes, letting it dry a little before applying the next pass.
Hopefully that helps. There is no doubt there are better techniques out there. Those with airbrushes and skill and experience, I am sure can do wonders and high quality designs.
Let your imagination go and take your time!
6/3/06, 07:15 PM
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My paint is drying as I type this
I used "silver" duplicolor "import auto spray" which is an identical match to the IUP vents. The number on the cap is 8801530. I'll have pictures when I'm done.
The actual switches were a pain in butt to get out.
I used "silver" duplicolor "import auto spray" which is an identical match to the IUP vents. The number on the cap is 8801530. I'll have pictures when I'm done.
The actual switches were a pain in butt to get out.
6/3/06, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Spirit
Excellent! Post pics when done.
6/3/06, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by pittperson
My paint is drying as I type this
I used "silver" duplicolor "import auto spray" which is an identical match to the IUP vents. The number on the cap is 8801530. I'll have pictures when I'm done.
The actual switches were a pain in butt to get out.
I used "silver" duplicolor "import auto spray" which is an identical match to the IUP vents. The number on the cap is 8801530. I'll have pictures when I'm done.
The actual switches were a pain in butt to get out.