Here's a picture of mine - two MTX amps - 282 (80w x 2) for the door subs and a 421D (210w x 1) for the trunk 12". I've had no issues with cooling in the 18 months they've been in the car. I bolted mine in as I don't think screws from underneath would be sufficient. The amps under there take no usable space fro the trunk and allow me to still get 2 sets of golf clubs, and a couple of small bags in without folding the rear seats. both amps are about 10" x 12"; in the center I think 12" x 15" or so would fit. You could also get a third 11" x 12" on the left side if needed. I added a 2.0 Cap in April for the 421D, that was clipping a little when using it with the car off - it is shown in the second picture. All of my modifications are stealthy.

 

Great install! I have to ask though, how did you put an amp on the door subs? I want to do this but don't know how since the door subs already have amps in the driver side kick panel. I also want to push more power to the front speakers and the rear speakers. I have the AVIC Z1 HU that has 3 pre-amp outs. Think I can do all of this?

 

Amping the door subs is easy. You can either run new wire into the door, or splice into teh factory wires at the harnesses in the driver's kickpanel. The 3V outputs on your head unit won't affect overall power output in any way, shape, or form. It will, however, possibly prevent cable-induced static and hum.

 

So if you splice into the factory harnesses do you remove the old amps for the subs (i.e. the factory amps) from the car right?

So let me ask to be sure: 1 50X2 amp for the door subs, 1 5 channel amp for the 2 front speakers, 2 rear speakers, and 1 sub in the trunk. Will this work on a HU with 3 pre-amp outs?

 

Also, how do I know if I need a 2 ohn or 4 ohm amp for the factory subs? Sorry to ask so many questions.

 

You CAN remove the amps, I did. Or, you can simply unplug them. They have plug-in harnesses and simply squeeze and pull to unhook them. The factory subs are dual 2 ohm, and are wired with a separate channel to each coil. You can easily run them as 4 ohm or 1 ohm, depending on your amp (likely 4, few are 1 ohm stable nowadays). That can be wired either in the door itself, or at the harness where you splice in. I will warn you that the factory door subs really beg for mercy at a true 75 watts, and I had them crying with 150, so go easy on them.

 

The amp I am going to use on the door subs is 70X2 at 4 ohms. I will splice into the harness to hook this up and then just remove the old amps for space reasons.

Let me ask you about the 5 channel amp. The HU has 2 preamp outputs left since 1 is going to the door subs. How do I hook up the 5 channel amp to the remaning 4 speakers? The 5th channel is easy because it is a sub channel and I will be hooking this up to the sub in the trunk. How do I hook up the rest?

 

You either need to use Y adapters, or some line output converters (unless your amp has speaker level inputs- a lot do). Either way, you'll be lacking a bit on individual channel control.

 

i'm in the proccess of finishing what i started last summer with my sound system. I too have purchased the 5760a and it looks like ill be mounting it to the piece of wood that covers the spare. the only problem is, it doesnt look like ill be able to get too stealthy with all of the wires since that carpet is glued down pretty good. . .

 

Yeah, that 5760 doesn't just mount anywhere. It's a fairly large slab. I now have 2 of them and 2 of teh 610a's, though I VERY seriously doubt all that will be in this car....but I MAY do it just to see. If I do I'll take a buttload of pictures.

 

If cooling is a concern, you can always use computer fans. They are native 12 volts and you have a huge selection of different speed and noise level. Although just blowing trunk air around may not be that great

 

I would just add, that if you are going to put an amp in for the door subs, you might change them out for something much better. The factory amps do a good job driving the crap Ford put in there - changing the door subs makes a big difference, but as there are no dvc 2ohm subs that fit, once you do so an amp addition is necessary. I tapped into the speaker wires at the amp location under the kick panel and pulled the factory amps out (they are now in a box with all of the parts I've changed - maybe the next guy wants it 100% stock).
Cobra 4548- If I were going to do it, I would use the Infinity 5670a for the f&r plus the door subs and get something more powerful for the trunk sub.

 

Or do like me, use the 5760 as an active 3-way for the front, and add a trunk sub if needed.

Joe, how are those CDT's working out for you? It's next on my list of 8's to audition in my doors. Do the factory grills fit back on them?