Brighter map lights?
#61
I didn't use a Voltmeter, but it was pitch black in my garage the other night, and if they were glowing even a little bit then I'm sure I would have noticed.
I also just checked about an hour ago and didn't see any glow from the LED's........
I also just checked about an hour ago and didn't see any glow from the LED's........
How are you checking the light? Check it when it is pitch black outside with no ambient light. If you try to check it in the sunlight, it won't show up.
Better you, get a DMM or a voltmeter and run the leads across the contacts. I found 9.75 VDC on the trunk contacts when the trunk switch was closed.
Better you, get a DMM or a voltmeter and run the leads across the contacts. I found 9.75 VDC on the trunk contacts when the trunk switch was closed.
#64
Yes, I have the anti-theft. And it looks like you were right after all about the LED's being light after the car is turned off.
This morning, I turned the engine off and just sat i the car untill the light went off, and the LED dome light were still dimly light! Errr!
I've been driving it that way for the last several days, so I don't think the battery will be drained down when I get off work, but I'm concerned about this!
Looks like I'll have to put the regular dome lights back in. What a waste of $30!
This morning, I turned the engine off and just sat i the car untill the light went off, and the LED dome light were still dimly light! Errr!
I've been driving it that way for the last several days, so I don't think the battery will be drained down when I get off work, but I'm concerned about this!
Looks like I'll have to put the regular dome lights back in. What a waste of $30!
#65
I've contacted V-LEDs about this and I suggest everyone else contact their vendors.
12 VDC devices should really be designed to completely shut-off below a certain voltage. These LEDs should be off at around 11.5 V, but I believe the voltage multipliers/regulators they use keep them running at our 9.75-10V levels. I blame Ford for this, but there's nothing I can do short of installing relays that totally cut off voltage below a certain voltage. That will cost me a lot of time and money just to use LEDs in the car.
Meanwhile, my 2000 Crown Vic and 2003 E-250 are using LEDs just fine (no dimly lit LEDs when they're shut off). The Crown Vic even has theater lighting (where it dims very slowly). I haven't checked the voltage at the connectors to make sure, but it looks like they totally cut off power.
12 VDC devices should really be designed to completely shut-off below a certain voltage. These LEDs should be off at around 11.5 V, but I believe the voltage multipliers/regulators they use keep them running at our 9.75-10V levels. I blame Ford for this, but there's nothing I can do short of installing relays that totally cut off voltage below a certain voltage. That will cost me a lot of time and money just to use LEDs in the car.
Meanwhile, my 2000 Crown Vic and 2003 E-250 are using LEDs just fine (no dimly lit LEDs when they're shut off). The Crown Vic even has theater lighting (where it dims very slowly). I haven't checked the voltage at the connectors to make sure, but it looks like they totally cut off power.
#66
I guess, I'll have to replace mine as well. Do you think it will drain my battery? It hasn't so far.......
Maybe I can return these blubs as well as the moleskin I ordered and don't need now. The 2008 window seals have a softer rubber seal against the inside of the windows with moleskin already on it.
It looks like Ford is making some product improvements as the years go by........
Maybe I can return these blubs as well as the moleskin I ordered and don't need now. The 2008 window seals have a softer rubber seal against the inside of the windows with moleskin already on it.
It looks like Ford is making some product improvements as the years go by........
I've contacted V-LEDs about this and I suggest everyone else contact their vendors.
12 VDC devices should really be designed to completely shut-off below a certain voltage. These LEDs should be off at around 11.5 V, but I believe the voltage multipliers/regulators they use keep them running at our 9.75-10V levels. I blame Ford for this, but there's nothing I can do short of installing relays that totally cut off voltage below a certain voltage. That will cost me a lot of time and money just to use LEDs in the car.
Meanwhile, my 2000 Crown Vic and 2003 E-250 are using LEDs just fine (no dimly lit LEDs when they're shut off). The Crown Vic even has theater lighting (where it dims very slowly). I haven't checked the voltage at the connectors to make sure, but it looks like they totally cut off power.
12 VDC devices should really be designed to completely shut-off below a certain voltage. These LEDs should be off at around 11.5 V, but I believe the voltage multipliers/regulators they use keep them running at our 9.75-10V levels. I blame Ford for this, but there's nothing I can do short of installing relays that totally cut off voltage below a certain voltage. That will cost me a lot of time and money just to use LEDs in the car.
Meanwhile, my 2000 Crown Vic and 2003 E-250 are using LEDs just fine (no dimly lit LEDs when they're shut off). The Crown Vic even has theater lighting (where it dims very slowly). I haven't checked the voltage at the connectors to make sure, but it looks like they totally cut off power.
#67
I've contacted V-LEDs about this and I suggest everyone else contact their vendors.
12 VDC devices should really be designed to completely shut-off below a certain voltage. These LEDs should be off at around 11.5 V, but I believe the voltage multipliers/regulators they use keep them running at our 9.75-10V levels. I blame Ford for this, but there's nothing I can do short of installing relays that totally cut off voltage below a certain voltage. That will cost me a lot of time and money just to use LEDs in the car.
Meanwhile, my 2000 Crown Vic and 2003 E-250 are using LEDs just fine (no dimly lit LEDs when they're shut off). The Crown Vic even has theater lighting (where it dims very slowly). I haven't checked the voltage at the connectors to make sure, but it looks like they totally cut off power.
12 VDC devices should really be designed to completely shut-off below a certain voltage. These LEDs should be off at around 11.5 V, but I believe the voltage multipliers/regulators they use keep them running at our 9.75-10V levels. I blame Ford for this, but there's nothing I can do short of installing relays that totally cut off voltage below a certain voltage. That will cost me a lot of time and money just to use LEDs in the car.
Meanwhile, my 2000 Crown Vic and 2003 E-250 are using LEDs just fine (no dimly lit LEDs when they're shut off). The Crown Vic even has theater lighting (where it dims very slowly). I haven't checked the voltage at the connectors to make sure, but it looks like they totally cut off power.
Did you measure microamp currents with the incandescent bulb or with the LED?
#68
#69
Made me a little nervous, so out it goes. Too bad, I kinda liked it. The light was maybe a little too white?
I pit it in an enevolpe and off it goes back to SC. Another failed mod! Errr!
I pit it in an enevolpe and off it goes back to SC. Another failed mod! Errr!
#71
Okay, just wondering. I was thinking maybe the same amount of current might actually flow through the incandescent too, but it just doesn't produce light at those low currents? Just theorizing... I'll test it out when I'm trying mine on.
By the way, after realizing this, have you left the LEDs in? Has anyone left them in?
By the way, after realizing this, have you left the LEDs in? Has anyone left them in?
#72
I took mine out. I do not believe that amount of current draw will deplete the battery within a few days, but I do not want to take any chances.
I am unsure on why Ford kept 9.75 VDC flowing through the system even when everything is off. It seems like an easy way to start a fire.
I am unsure on why Ford kept 9.75 VDC flowing through the system even when everything is off. It seems like an easy way to start a fire.
#73
Yeah, I took mine out too. Too bad, very sad..
I took mine out. I do not believe that amount of current draw will deplete the battery within a few days, but I do not want to take any chances.
I am unsure on why Ford kept 9.75 VDC flowing through the system even when everything is off. It seems like an easy way to start a fire.
I am unsure on why Ford kept 9.75 VDC flowing through the system even when everything is off. It seems like an easy way to start a fire.
#74
As Falchion said, what a waste of $30. SIGH...
As a side note, my car has sat in the garage since Saturday, and started right up earlier today. Apparently the draw isn't enough to kill the battery that quickly, but I'm worried about long-term, as well as possible fires.
Too bad, it sounded like a good mod...
#75
It's not the LEDs, it's the car. I now have 2 extra 194 and 1 extra 211-2 conversion LEDs that I spent $17 on. These worked great in 2 other Fords. I looked over the wiring diagrams and can only assume it is because of the mystical "low current board" of the SJB.
I tried installing a Passport X50 following the instructions posted on TMS and it wouldn't shut off even after 15 minutes (same issue).
I tried installing a Passport X50 following the instructions posted on TMS and it wouldn't shut off even after 15 minutes (same issue).
#76
So, there's no fix to this short of rewiring the car?
Who would have thought something as simple as changing a lightblub would be so complicated........
Who would have thought something as simple as changing a lightblub would be so complicated........
It's not the LEDs, it's the car. I now have 2 extra 194 and 1 extra 211-2 conversion LEDs that I spent $17 on. These worked great in 2 other Fords. I looked over the wiring diagrams and can only assume it is because of the mystical "low current board" of the SJB.
I tried installing a Passport X50 following the instructions posted on TMS and it wouldn't shut off even after 15 minutes (same issue).
I tried installing a Passport X50 following the instructions posted on TMS and it wouldn't shut off even after 15 minutes (same issue).
#78
I tried to, but Ebay wanted me to put my credit card on file before I could send him an E-mail!
I didn't really want to do that! I did send the LED blubs back in the mail and asked for a credit back. I haven't heard anything back yet.........
I didn't really want to do that! I did send the LED blubs back in the mail and asked for a credit back. I haven't heard anything back yet.........
#79
Guys,
I just found this kit on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-J...QQcmdZViewItem
Looks like they adjust the voltage with a resistor to address the problem. This may not just be a problem with our vehicles.
I tried to read the values of the resistors, but came up with 230ohm's. I don't know if that is right though. Maybe somebody with better eyes can read it
I just found this kit on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-J...QQcmdZViewItem
Looks like they adjust the voltage with a resistor to address the problem. This may not just be a problem with our vehicles.
I tried to read the values of the resistors, but came up with 230ohm's. I don't know if that is right though. Maybe somebody with better eyes can read it
#80
All that kit does is allow you to mount a panel of LEDs using a variety of bases. All of the LED replacement "bulbs" have resistors of some kind. The problem is that our SJB is feeding 9.75 VDC constantly and the LEDs are still drawing current at this voltage. They need to shut down at anything under, say 12 VDC, and operating normally at 12 VDC-15 VDC.