Got some HID's on the 05
I have noticed the signs and reflective tape being very noticeable as well. Its interesting that roads that I drive on very often I am noticing signs that I have never noticed before...lol.
I wes concerned about the brightness too. I have not had anyone flash their brights at me either so I think they must not be too bright to oncoming drivers.
I wes concerned about the brightness too. I have not had anyone flash their brights at me either so I think they must not be too bright to oncoming drivers.
I was running on 66 last night and my car was lighting the reflective tape up for the drivers 100' in front of me. You could see everything their headlights lit up yellow, then as you get closer EVERYTHING in front of them takes a blue tint
Worked great in the rain too, where the lines on the road when wet are virtually invisible with halogens. Still couln't get any decent pictures though, my camera stinks in the dark. And yes, I too keep seeing tons of 'new' signs on roads I drive every day.
And this would be why you never received the pics you kept requesting. It just won't turn out as you were hoping for. That said, what's your impression of the glare on the parked cars you were concerned about? On mine there's a lot of "bleed" for lack of a better term off to the sides, but I don't think it's an issue as I don't get complaints and it doesn't come into play until the opposing traffic is pretty much right next to me.
I got it, looks like a decent harness and quality looks fine. Although I found the US vendor is right on the box. WWW.VVME.COM
Will install it tomorrow and see what's what.
Looks pretty easy to install, replace the bulbs and plug up the balast and hi/low controller, plug the controller into one of the existing sockets, and run power to the battery. Everything is relayed and fused. May need to extend the power lead though as its quite a journey to the battery from the radiator support.
Will install it tomorrow and see what's what.Looks pretty easy to install, replace the bulbs and plug up the balast and hi/low controller, plug the controller into one of the existing sockets, and run power to the battery. Everything is relayed and fused. May need to extend the power lead though as its quite a journey to the battery from the radiator support.
I just got H13 silverstars and they stink.
Good thing they were only $25 for a pair on ebay. At some point I want to do the HID conversion, but does anyone know the difference between the $300 American Muscle kit and the e-bay stuff. If it is the same supplier and quality I'll go with e-bay. Also, my stock bulb shields look burnt and are flaking off like the inside of a burnt lamp shade. Anyone know what the deal is with the shields?
And this would be why you never received the pics you kept requesting. It just won't turn out as you were hoping for. That said, what's your impression of the glare on the parked cars you were concerned about? On mine there's a lot of "bleed" for lack of a better term off to the sides, but I don't think it's an issue as I don't get complaints and it doesn't come into play until the opposing traffic is pretty much right next to me.
I just got H13 silverstars and they stink.
Good thing they were only $25 for a pair on ebay. At some point I want to do the HID conversion, but does anyone know the difference between the $300 American Muscle kit and the e-bay stuff. If it is the same supplier and quality I'll go with e-bay. Also, my stock bulb shields look burnt and are flaking off like the inside of a burnt lamp shade. Anyone know what the deal is with the shields?
The weak link in the instructions was the blue plug in connector for the hi-low switch, where the colors in the drawings don't match. I used 3m double sided tape for the ballasts. Every time I use that stuff I am like 'maybe I should drill' and THUNK, stuck forever
I used the factory ground on on the PS radiator support and used the bolt from the ABS module on the driver's side for a ground(had to open the loop with a snip). I used a bit of double sided tape to put the hi-low switch on the inner fender next to the fuse box and the red lead just made it to the battery terminal. All the wires hide easily with the rat's nest from the factory. I'll grab some photos tomorrow. One of the solenoids was not tripping consistently with the brights, but I tightened the little connector tab a smidge and they thunk up 100% now. If they last a couple years I'll be happy.
And remember the bulb housings do rotate with a little effort in the connector ring, so you can turn them to put the ceramic nodes down. And I had to double up the gasket from my stock H13's to really snug it up in the housing. Once you get the bulb through the hole, its easy to look from the front to get the connector snug and the bulb oriented(lights off, of course).
I haven't looked at the inside, but the outside is almost flaked off and all the burnt plastic is accumulating in the headlight housing. Are the 2005/06 housings still made or would they just replace it with the 2007?
All seems well with mine. One tip is to get 3 decent plastic 'taps' to tie into the right front bulb connector. I literally cut mine off a few inches back(easily fixed and hidden in the loom) and went in the box for crimp connectors and duh, taps were right in there...
The weak link in the instructions was the blue plug in connector for the hi-low switch, where the colors in the drawings don't match.
I used 3m double sided tape for the ballasts. Every time I use that stuff I am like 'maybe I should drill' and THUNK, stuck forever
I mounted one from underneath on the frame rail on the driver's side(be careful you set it in the right place, its disorienting under the car as to where the headlight ends) outside the rail-exactly where the washer bottle is on the passenger side. On the pass side I stuck the ballast forward on the rail from above opposite the reservoir(inside the rail). Try to keep them away from the radiator so they can cool off, but inside the protected area of the wheel well liners-the length of the wires kinda makes it a no-brainer...
I used the factory ground on on the PS radiator support and used the bolt from the ABS module on the driver's side for a ground(had to open the loop with a snip). I used a bit of double sided tape to put the hi-low switch on the inner fender next to the fuse box and the red lead just made it to the battery terminal. All the wires hide easily with the rat's nest from the factory. I'll grab some photos tomorrow. One of the solenoids was not tripping consistently with the brights, but I tightened the little connector tab a smidge and they thunk up 100% now. If they last a couple years I'll be happy.
And remember the bulb housings do rotate with a little effort in the connector ring, so you can turn them to put the ceramic nodes down. And I had to double up the gasket from my stock H13's to really snug it up in the housing. Once you get the bulb through the hole, its easy to look from the front to get the connector snug and the bulb oriented(lights off, of course).
The weak link in the instructions was the blue plug in connector for the hi-low switch, where the colors in the drawings don't match. I used 3m double sided tape for the ballasts. Every time I use that stuff I am like 'maybe I should drill' and THUNK, stuck forever
I used the factory ground on on the PS radiator support and used the bolt from the ABS module on the driver's side for a ground(had to open the loop with a snip). I used a bit of double sided tape to put the hi-low switch on the inner fender next to the fuse box and the red lead just made it to the battery terminal. All the wires hide easily with the rat's nest from the factory. I'll grab some photos tomorrow. One of the solenoids was not tripping consistently with the brights, but I tightened the little connector tab a smidge and they thunk up 100% now. If they last a couple years I'll be happy.
And remember the bulb housings do rotate with a little effort in the connector ring, so you can turn them to put the ceramic nodes down. And I had to double up the gasket from my stock H13's to really snug it up in the housing. Once you get the bulb through the hole, its easy to look from the front to get the connector snug and the bulb oriented(lights off, of course).
I was complaining about it until I tried to take some myself, the camera seems to hate it 
Its much better all around over the stock bulbs and fogs together and the ability to light up reflective objects is outstanding. I got 6k so they are slightly blue, if you get 4300 it will provide even better lighting.

Its much better all around over the stock bulbs and fogs together and the ability to light up reflective objects is outstanding. I got 6k so they are slightly blue, if you get 4300 it will provide even better lighting.
I got it, looks like a decent harness and quality looks fine. Although I found the US vendor is right on the box. WWW.VVME.COM
Will install it tomorrow and see what's what.
Looks pretty easy to install, replace the bulbs and plug up the balast and hi/low controller, plug the controller into one of the existing sockets, and run power to the battery. Everything is relayed and fused. May need to extend the power lead though as its quite a journey to the battery from the radiator support.
Will install it tomorrow and see what's what.Looks pretty easy to install, replace the bulbs and plug up the balast and hi/low controller, plug the controller into one of the existing sockets, and run power to the battery. Everything is relayed and fused. May need to extend the power lead though as its quite a journey to the battery from the radiator support.
Just wanted to throw in my good feedback on this and these are very simple to install and the end results are fantastic.
They are controlled by one of the stock headlight bulbs. So if DRL's simply turn on the stock headlight low beam bulb when started then it should work the same way. Its just the computer telling the lights to be on.



