2 part answer, yes and no.

Looking at your pic I'm attaching, it looks like the front passenger side of the scoop is a tad higher than the drivers side.

Also, it looks like the gap from the trim ring to scoop is wider at the passenger side compared to the drivers side.

Okay, here's the 2 part answer...
As far as leveling the scoop (up/down) to the hood, you must loosen the throttle body bolt on the side that's high (in your case the passenger side bolt), and press down on the scoop while re-tightening that bolt. The 'L' bracket has a limited amount of adjustability as far as up/down and side to side.

Now for the trim ring to scoop gap, if your center vertical rib is centered to the hood center line crease and your gap is not even between the left and right sides, you're outta luck. Reason is that the upper trim ring had some side to side adjustability before tacking down the double side tape. It's not entirely JBA's fault, per CDC's direction, they tell you to tack down the upper trim ring before mounting the Shaker shroud. So doing this, there's no way to tell if the trim ring will be exactly centered to the scoop.

Now if the gap bothers you more than getting the scoop's vertical rib to line up to the hood's CL, then it's possible to loosen the 2 throttle body bolts and push the scoop over to one side (and re-tighten).

Another option is to split the difference and call it good!

 

To add to Bill's post...

To level, I would loosen both throttle body bolts and lift up on the scoop as much as possible to level it. Then tighten down the 2 bolts. This way, the engine cover is as far away as possible from the radiator hoses (so they won't chafe). All the way up on each side should level it.

Side to side... While the bolts are loose, try moving the scoop in the direction it needs to move to center it. You might get lucky. I think the gap uneven on the sides of the scoop is more noticable than the center rib of the scoop not on the center line of the hood. The crown on the hood is so hard to see as a "point", so if it's a little off you won't notice it.

Do the "finger test". Put your index finger between the scoop and the trim ring and move it forward and back. If the "drag" is the same on both sides, I would leave it alone. If one side feels obviously wider, then see if you can correct it.

 

Here's the extension/socket set-up I used, never slipped off, worked great!

 

tks for all the help. I'll post an update as soon as I get around to it.

 

Is there anyway to remove the rivets withouth damaging so that I can move the plastic frame around??? If not I think I'll just go with Bill's advice and split the difference.

 

Leo, even if you drilled out the 4 pop-rivets, that upper trim ring isn't going anywhere! That sucker is taped down with 2 sided 3M tape around the perimeter of the ring. Damage to the plastic ring is highly likely if pryed up, not to mention possibly damaging the paint that it's stuck to.

But, if you're stuck on removing it, I think you'll need a 3/32" drill to (drill and) pop off the rivet heads. Some non-marring plastic putty knives and spatulas will also be needed. Before I'd attempt at any of it though, I'd give CDC a call and see if they'll send you both an upper and lower trim ring (they are mated as one unit by having the 4 rivet holes drilled to match). Anticipate it breaking/warping and if it doesn't, at least you'll have a back-up ring set for whatever.

Don't forget about new 2-way tape and replacement pop-rivets too.

 

Back to the topic MOSS Mustang has the shaker system for $695

http://www.fordmustangstore.com/Shop...33&SortOrder=1

free ground shipping too

 

$695 that's what they have on there site just try ordering and you'll see it's a different story. I was going to buy mine from them. They wanted to charge me $782 and when I asked why It's cause they said they had to drop ship it from CDC and also had to include tax. So don't be fooled by their $695 price.

 

but does anyone on the east coast know of a good body shop to cut into my hood?im in n.c