Torquing the struts (D-specs) on the car?
10/14/09, 11:47 PM
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Torquing the struts (D-specs) on the car?
Hey all. I just installed Tokico D-Specs and FRPP springs. After about 50 miles I started getting a noise going over bumps. Turns out the nut on the strut was loose enough to spin by hand. Is there a way to torque that thing on the car or do I have to remove the whole assembly and do it over? I have to hold the top portion with like an 8mm so it wont spin. Anyone have this problem?
10/15/09, 11:26 AM
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Yeah I changed the strut mounts out to the GT500 ones. Another reason that I dont want to remove the assembly. So what do you use like a crows feet or something?
10/15/09, 12:18 PM
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Question is changing the strut mounts a pita ? I have a brand new set for GT 500 that I'd like to drop in so I'm hoping all I need is a spring compressor ? any ideas appreciated.
10/15/09, 12:20 PM
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you just need a spring compressor and some tools. its pretty easy to drop the assembly. I just followed the link that Taco bill wrote up. Just be sure to torque the struts down correctly before you re-install the assembly.
10/15/09, 12:47 PM
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You basically have to use two separate open ended wrenches to torque the strut nuts, or the swaybar endlinks for that matter. One to hold the central shaft from moving, the other to tighten the big nut. Those 8mm open ended wrenches ain't that big, though, hard to put much torque through them.
Problem is that it makes it difficult to know what the actual ft-lbs it's torqued to. The endlinks no big deal, just tighten til you can't anymore. But the struts are supposed to be like 50 or so if I remember, and the D-specs in particular strongly caution not overtightening them. I just gave it my best guess and it seems fine so far. Still though, how would you go about getting a socket on that large nut without the inner shaft rotating as well?
Problem is that it makes it difficult to know what the actual ft-lbs it's torqued to. The endlinks no big deal, just tighten til you can't anymore. But the struts are supposed to be like 50 or so if I remember, and the D-specs in particular strongly caution not overtightening them. I just gave it my best guess and it seems fine so far. Still though, how would you go about getting a socket on that large nut without the inner shaft rotating as well?
10/15/09, 01:11 PM
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the plan right now is to have someone hold the 8mm wrench and then I use a crows feet on the center nut to torque it down. The angle is sharp so Im not sure if I will have enough leverage. I'm sure they recommend removing the assembly.
10/15/09, 01:46 PM
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My wrenches are angled for the box end, so I was able to put that on the strut nut, but only get maybe 45 degree rotation before hitting one of the studs that hold the shock up in the tower. I think I managed to get it torqued well enough using the small 8mm boxed end as well above the larger wrench, but still don't know what the actual number is.
10/19/09, 08:34 PM
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got em both torqued. Passanger side was easy and clicked right away. Drivers side wouldnt so I ended up backing the nut all the way to finger loose. Then I tightened with end wrench. Started the torque wrench at 30-clicked. then 40-clicked. at this point I went up 2 ft pounds at a time until I hit 48. I had to go slow precise but I got it torqued to spec this way. No crows feet necessary.
10/19/09, 11:22 PM
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its basically the open end of the wrench was cut off. It has a square hole for the ratchet drive or extension. Kind of like wrenching from the top with a ratchet.
heres a pic
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...-8&sa=N&tab=wi
heres a pic
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...-8&sa=N&tab=wi
10/20/09, 06:38 PM
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Just an FYI, I am sure most people already know this ...
but in case you didn't, if you use a crows foot attachment you will need to calculate the torque based on the new lever arm.
but in case you didn't, if you use a crows foot attachment you will need to calculate the torque based on the new lever arm.
10/26/09, 09:28 PM
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10/27/09, 02:36 AM
#20
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Locktite will keep it from loosening back up. According to Ford's specs, it should be torqued down to 62Nm, or 46 ft-lbs.
I had this happen to me. I used an 8mm open ended wrench on the flat part of the strut rod and then a crow's foot on the nut. Just be CAREFUL. if you put too much torque on the strut, you can crack the rod, and that'd be bad. very bad.
I had this happen to me. I used an 8mm open ended wrench on the flat part of the strut rod and then a crow's foot on the nut. Just be CAREFUL. if you put too much torque on the strut, you can crack the rod, and that'd be bad. very bad.
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