GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

tire has a leak? what's the best procedure?

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Old 7/4/07, 08:09 PM
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tire has a leak? what's the best procedure?

So my driver rear tire has a pretty good leak in it. I'm not sure where on the tire the leak is, or what caused it. Don't see any gashes or nails in it anywhere.

I came out to day to take my car for a spin and noticed the RR it looked kind of low. It had only 12 lbs of air in it. Checked all the others, they were at a solid 40lbs. I aired the RR up to 40 lbs, checked it again after 30 minutes or so, and it had gone down to about 32lbs.

Anyway, with the rate of this leak, if I can find a tire place that is close (within 2 miles or so), would it be safe to drive it there right after I air it up to 40lbs? Or would it be best to slap the donut spare tire on there and drive the car to a tire place with the donut on the wheel? (never driven a car on the spare before)
Old 7/4/07, 08:21 PM
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If it's within 2 miles you'll be fine. You runs your tires at 40 lbs all the time? Kind of high don't you think?
Old 7/4/07, 08:23 PM
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I think the tires are rated for 38 to 42? So I picked a happy medium :-)
Old 7/4/07, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Error404
I think the tires are rated for 38 to 42? So I picked a happy medium :-)
DON'T FOLLOW THE PRESSURE RATINGS ON THE TIRES THEMSELVES...EVER!!!!! Follow the ratings on the sticker in the door jamb. The ratings on the sidewall are the maximum pressures for seating the beads only.
Old 7/4/07, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RobK
DON'T FOLLOW THE PRESSURE RATINGS ON THE TIRES THEMSELVES...EVER!!!!! Follow the ratings on the sticker in the door jamb. The ratings on the sidewall are the maximum pressures for seating the beads only.
You don't have to type in caps

Thanks, I'll do that next time What if the tires are different than the factory tires, wouldn't they have their own rating? That seems very stupid for them to put incorrect pressure ratings on the tires. I haven't notice any side or center wearing, just nice even wear.

What do you guys set your pressure to?
Old 7/5/07, 01:19 AM
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If the tires are the same size as the factory tires, even though they are a different brand, you should stick with the recommended pressure on the door jam. If they are bigger tires, you will need to take the pressure down a few pounds I believe. Maybe a more knowledgable tire expert can chime in here though.
Old 7/5/07, 05:44 AM
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I run 35 lbs or so in my tires. I would also have that tire patched over having a plug put in it.... That is unless most of the tread is gone.
Old 7/5/07, 10:50 AM
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I think the leak is getting worse (hard to tell, I'll check again to night) Tomorrow I'm taking the car in. If the leak is alot worse, is it ok to put the spare tire on the rear? I had heard from somewhere that putting the spare tire on the rear is not good for the differential and things in there. Is this true? I'll be driving 1.5 miles :-)
Old 7/5/07, 10:54 AM
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FWIW, one of my slicks would lose a lot of air over the course of a week or so sitting in the garage. When I had the last set mounted, I asked them to replace the valve stem... and it solved the problem.
Old 7/5/07, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Error404
You don't have to type in caps

Thanks, I'll do that next time What if the tires are different than the factory tires, wouldn't they have their own rating? That seems very stupid for them to put incorrect pressure ratings on the tires. I haven't notice any side or center wearing, just nice even wear.

What do you guys set your pressure to?
Sorry about the caps, but it seems so many people don't realize this. I wanted to make sure everyone noticed and understands the importance. As I mentioned, the ratings are for seating the beads during installation. The tire manufacturer has no idea what car you're putting their tires on so they have no way of putting the approriate pressure ratings on the tire. The pressure ratings will vary slightly as you upsize your tires, but very little. The thing you need to realize that correct pressures don't just affect tread wear, but they'll also play a key roll in handling, braking and fuel economy. If you have them cranked up too high you'll reduce your contact patch and take away the tire's ability to absorb much energy before they start to slide.

Regarding your air leak, if you absolutely can't find a puncture then pick up a valve stem wrench and try to tighten the core of the Schraeder valve. That my be the culprit. If it is a puncture, have it dismounted and patched - no plugs. If the puncture is within an inch of the sidewall then it's time for a new tire.
Old 7/5/07, 03:13 PM
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Discount tire offers free tire repair (if there's one near you). I've had 3 leaks fixed there over the last year. One we couldn't find the first couple of times, but all were patched from the inside (plugs are bad).

It's amazing how many people go by the rating on the sidewall of the tire, I've shown many here at work the stickers in their door jams, they were all clueless to it.

Good luck with your tire.
Old 7/5/07, 04:02 PM
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yea, the door jam, that's not the place I would expect to find the tire info! I know now, thanks guys!

Yes, Discount Tire is where i used to go in phoenix (I had a puncture), I was amazed that they did it for free, and I had never purchased anything from them (either before, or after). nice service that they offer :-)



Originally Posted by RobK
If it is a puncture, have it dismounted and patched - no plugs.
what is the difference there? i assume a plug is quicker and cheaper? (maybe not as strong?)
Old 7/5/07, 04:11 PM
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A plug is just some rubber and glue stuffed into the hole form the outside, and can either leak again or come out. A patch is done from inside the tire, and covers the hole and area around it (it's also glued on) but with the size and the pressure inside the tire, it's far less likely to come off or leak.
Old 7/5/07, 04:34 PM
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FWIW, a tire can also develop a leak in the bead. I had one of those this past winter, and a cleaning of the wheel along with some sealer did the trick.
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