Hey guys,

I've been working with Coolingmist and their trunk mounted kits now for a few months and I've finally gotten a bracket assembly that mounts using factory hardware and in a good location. Using their 1.5 gallon tank with everything else self contained I've made brackets that mount it in the passenger's side rear of the trunk. It mounts down using factory studs coming up from the floor and to a factory bracket that comes down from the upper body seem. We've had this kit on a s/c V6 with a Eaton blower now for 3 months and it's working out great.

Coolingmist has released a completely self contained kit with the pump, boost switch, and check valve all mounted to the tank so the only thing to run is the vacuum lines and water line which is very simple. We've now started selling them as complete kits for the 05 and newer Mustangs, including Shelby's.

http://www.bamachips.com/store/index...ath=18_4_10_40

To my knowledge this is the only bolt-in kit available for the 05up Mustang's so far. The only draw back is if you have a Shaker 1000 system due to the fact that the tank sits in the same location as the sub. We are working on that too!

Thanks, Doug.

 

Doug:

My '05 Stang is my first true muscle car and first true car that I've spent a LOT of time modding. As such, I don't know the benefits of water injection. Why is this mod helpful? I'm assuming it adds power but how does it work? What is the principle of water injection?

Eric.

 

+1

 

It cools your intake charge good if you have power adder altough I would go with a Methanol water mix for a boost in octane and cooling. I would also recommend a setup with a module that will alter your timeing if the unit fails or your run it out of water/Methanol.

 

Well......you know someone had to ask ....would there be any benefit to an N/A engine after all our engines do seem to run better on rainy days....years ago there were several "kits" that claimed improved hp and economy using water misters of various types....

 

such a nice picture of my trunk

 

more info would be cool. Any dyno tests results??

 

On a n/a engine I wouldn't do it unless you have a built engine with high compression. The true benefits of water injection show up on a S/C or Turbocharged application and this is my target market.

Now, I know there have been some tests with other kits on n/a stock cars but I still hold true that it isn't a true benefit for them.

Thanks, Doug.

 

how long do you guys think the aluminium motor will hold up to methanol injection? methanol being corrosive to certain metals and aluminium being one of those I am not sure i would want to risk it. then again I don't know much about methanol injection in motors either. anybody care to shed some light here?

 

Interesting... I put similar device on my Dads' 77 F-250 with a 460 CI back not too long after we got it. I can't remember the manufacturer of it but it was a nice device. It allowed us to advance the timing quite a bit without any detonation. I think it gave us a bump in mpg as well but not much. It might have been sold by Edlebrock but I am not sure.

 

reviving an old thread.. anyone one else try using water/methanol yet? it supposedly has the same effect as raising the octane level of the fuel by slowing the combustion process. this is confirmed by pville piper. im going to be running a trunk mount system by snow performance only with my nitrous system. my goal is to have a 300+ hp tune (UD pulleys, bbk shorties, off road h, pypes mid muff, intake) with a good amount of timing and be able to run the nitrous/water/methanol on the same tune.

 

150 shot btw.

 

Its not an issue for a couple of reasons:

1) you are not using pure methanol. It is usually a 50/50 mix with water. Dilute, methanol is a lot less corrosive than pure.

2) Liquid methanol doesn't get to sit around and corrode the engine. It gets sprayed into the intake manifold as a fine mist. Those small particles then completely evaporate (absorbing a LOT of heat in the process). Once the mist makes it to the combustion chamber, it is fairly rapidly converted into something very much NOT like methanol. I think they call it H20 and CO2. To make a short story longer, I wouldn't use an aluminum take to store methanol, but it won't hurt your engine in this application.

 

This looks like the same kit as AIS, Alchohol Injection Systems if I'm not mistaken.

 

My impression about water/meth injection is that they work really well in centrifugal and turbo applications because of the location of the spray needles after the supercharger. But I haven't heard alot about injection on positive displacement superchargers where the water/meth is introduced through the MAF tube in front of the throttle body. With the twin screw or roots type supercharger mounted after the TB the spray enters through the screws and I've read that the screws are coated and that the meth might/would destroy the coating. I could be wrong but it makes some sense to me. It would be great to get clarification because I'd like to install the Snow or AIS system on my Saleen Series VI if it was not going to damage the supercharger.

 

My impression about water/meth injection is that they work really well in centrifugal and turbo applications because of the location of the spray needles after the supercharger.

Absolutely true. I've seen IATs lower than ambient with 14-psig boost on my IROC-Z. This allows a ton of timing.... More timing, more power!


But I haven't heard alot about injection on positive displacement superchargers where the water/meth is introduced through the MAF tube in front of the throttle body....

This is because it is not nearly as efficient. I've acquired data on my former Whippled '05 GT with digital air temp gauges. Although the IAT going into the TB is markedly lowered, once the air gets past the screws and through the IC HE, the IATs don't seem any cooler.


I've read that the screws are coated and that the meth might/would destroy the coating. I could be wrong but it makes some sense to me.

A common misconception. Have you ever rubbed alcohol on your skin? What happens to it? The alcohol almost instantaneously evaporates. Feel the cooling effect? It's basically the same with methanol. It evaporates well before it hits the screws.


It would be great to get clarification because I'd like to install the Snow or AIS system on my Saleen Series VI if it was not going to damage the supercharger.

I've almost completed installing my progressive kit (not Snow or AIS) but it contains two nozzles that will inject the methanol after the screws and water-to-air IC HE. I also have digital gauges that will tell me exactly what my temps will be.

 

Willie, thanks for the first hand info. Please keep us up to speed on how well the progressive kit works. If the price/value relationship makes sense - I'm in.

 

I love it...saved me a ton over bolting on a traditional I/C ...lowered IAT from 193 after to 115 at 6400 rpm on the dyno bringing the 50/50 mix in at 4 psi...I have the AIS kit and the Vortech head unit provides a perfect nozzle mount and is even the right threads!! I have been using it last 4 months and have not had a problem yet...tank is big enuff to not worry if it might run out...should last over a month easy on daily driving...I was able to take a non intercooled vortech from a unsafe 435 rwhp with crazy heat soak and high IAT to a cool 455 and a safe tune that I have yet to bump up yet and i get a nice carbon free top end from the spray...my plugs stay clean as well...worried about the so called 450-500 breaking point stock rods have....so bottom line is water/meth works and its been around for a long time...