After some research, I found that you don't need the stop kit (I didn't get one and I don't think you'd need it). I didn't have a ratcheting box wrench, just takes longer without.

 

Thanks. How notchy is the shifting with the MGW? Is there more effort required to shift with the MGW?

 

It's adjustable, it really depends how notchy you want it. You can crank it out to 10 turns at most (I believe), which is the max. I have mine set at 6 turns and it's good enough for daily driving. After searching a ton of threads, I found that a lot of guys run between 4-7 turns. Forgot to mention-finding 3rd is a LOT easier when you put the hammer down with this shifter!

 

How is it finding 1st, 2nd, 5th, and reverse? Stiffer than stock? I heard 4-5 turns recommended by MGW, but I'm concerned that it will require more force to shift into the gears. My stock shifter is easy to slip into each gear (can just use 1 or 2 fingers).

 

1, 2 & 5 are easy as well, definitely more precise. Also, there isn't any play in the shifter when it's in gear. As for the effort to shift, it really depends on how many turns you have it out (1 is close to stock (in my opinion) and 6 is tough, but won't wear your arm out).

 

Forgot to mention- I'm 6'4" so I have the driver seat touching the back seat, which made it harder to reach 3rd and 5th gear...but the MGW shifter is adjustable and let's you bring the shifter closer to the center console, a big plus for us tall guys!)

 

I got out a tape measure and measured the actual throw in my stock shifter and compared it with the factory short-throw in the Cobalt SS Turbo.

In both cars, the distance from Neutral to 4th was 2 inches. In the GT, the distance from Neutral to 3rd was 2" while the distance was about 1.75" in the Cobalt.

I think the reason why I like the Cobalt shifter better is its position. I noticed that the MGW, Steeda, and Hurst short-throws positions the shifter so that you have to install the stock boot in reverse, which puts the shifter closer to your body. This is the same exact position of the Cobalt shifter. The 2" of throw isn't too bad for me, I would like a shorter throw and I see that the Steeda Tri-Ax is noticeably shorter, but I'm not sure it is worth spending nearly $300 to accomplish.

 

I went with the Hurst myself. No issues at all, love the throws. I used the oem bushings instead of the poly that came with it. no noises just the sweet sound of american muscle.

 

The MGW is probably #1 but the Steeda Tri-AX is also very good. I run the Tri-ax and have no complaints but it is easier to install if you drop the driveshaft which I did but at the same time I replaced the driveshaft with a one piece aluminum one.

 

Where is the cheapest place to get a one piece aluminum drive shaft? I just want one rated to 500 hp

 

Putting in my aluminum driveshaft today, got it from Shaftmasters for $625

 

After looking at TacoBill's how-to, the Steeda instructions, the Roush instructions, and the MGW video, I'm wondering how everyone properly torqued the front shifter arm bolt that goes to the transmission housing? There doesn't seem to be enough room to use a socket, only enough room for a box/open/ratcheting wrench. The factory manual says to torque to 30 ft-lb, and that is incredibly difficult to properly torque using a combination wrench.

It looked like TacoBill was able to use a socket for the 2 rear nuts and the linkage nut

 

German torque spec'd mine, been fine for 2 years...