I've heard good things about the Steeda Tri-Ax. Are there any other short throw shifters that are better overall? I'm looking to use the stock shifter ****, and don't like excess NVH. How hard is the installation? Do I absolutely need to drop the driveshaft?

My stock shifter is fine except for the overly long throw.

 

Go with the MGW and call it a day. I ran a Pro 5.0 for a couple years and had no complaints, but upgraded to the MGW last summer and I could not believe the difference. It feels a lot "tighter" with none of the inherent rattles (which were minimal) on the Pro 5.0. And you can run a host of **** options including the OEM, along with having a fully adjustable shifter.

The install was fairly straight forward and was done mostly from the top. I did need to drop the tranny cross member slightly, but that was mainly due to my 4inch aluminum DS.

 

I second the MGW just ordered mine should be here this week. I will let you know after the install how hard it was.

 

I have a pro 5.0 and I dig it. MGW from what I hear is really good. The pro 5.0 is a little tight going in to 5th and R the first month but other than that I have no complaints. I think they're both roughly the same price. I'd prolly go MGW if I had to do it again...

 

+1 on MGW (2nd gen). I had the Saleen shift block, which was better than stock, but can't compare to the MGW! The MGW installed easily and isn't difficult to adjust once it's in the car. Highly suggested!

 

I've had my MGW since they first came out and it's been the best shifter I've ever had ...

 

I would definitely recommend the Tri-Ax. I have an '06 and I originally got a Hurst. However, after getting it I didn't like the quality of it, so I returned it and got a Steeda instead and haven't looked back. (this was all long-before I started working at Steeda, by the way)

I haven't had any noticeable increase in NVH.

Let me know if I can help you with that!

 

I've heard some conflicting info on the NVH. I heard the Pro 5.0 and Tri-Ax originally increased the sound/vibration, but that switching back to the rubber bushings resolved this problem. I also see Dynamat included with a lot of the shifters to reduce NVH. My 07 GT doesn't have any sound deadener currently and the car is quiet on the highway and at WOT. Looking at a variety of instruction sets, it seems like a royal PITA to crawl under the car and mess with the driveshaft, sound deadening material, and trying to torque the shifter bolts to 30 ft-lb / 8 ft-lb and whatever value for the actual shift linkage.

My complaint with the stock shifter is that the throw to the 1, 3, and 5 gears is long. It's almost like I am reaching forward, and the shifter actually blocks the Recirc and A/C buttons. Looking at a lot of the videos and photographs, it seems that all a short throw shifter does is move the shifter position rearwards slightly for the 2, 4, and R positions, and moves it rearwards quite a bit for the 1, 3, and 5 positions. My 09 Cobalt SS Turbo came from the factory with a short throw, so in 3rd gear while parked it always looks like I am in neutral. Meanwhile in the GT, there's no mistake that I am in 3rd gear.

Why couldn't Ford include a short throw shifter from the factory? What's so hard about it? It's no so hard to realize that a person buying a Mustang with a manual is going to want performance out of the car.

 

My pro 5.0 rattled a bit. Used a nylon bushing and problem solved. The shifting is amazing IMO

 

[ begin infomercial ]The throw reduction is about 20% in the upper position and a little over 30% in the lower. The Tri-Ax also has third gear assist to help you not miss the shift. They're made from billet aluminum and feature our three-piece poly-urethane bushing so that there is little to no deflection. It's also one of the only shifters that use shift-stop bolts to prevent any transmission damage.

Also, Steeda is ISO 9001:2008 certified, which basically is a quality control certification stating that we consistently make high-quality parts. We are one of the few in the aftermarket Mustang industry that have that certification. Our Steeda parts are also made in the USA, and they also carry a lifetime limited warranty. [/ end infomercial ]

Sorry for the infomercial, but it's the truth.

 

No comparison go w mgw

 

Woops did not mean to post that car

 

Got a MGW and never looked back.

 

Can you explain how you torqued the 2 linkage bolts and the rear bushing nuts in that limited space? Will I need to drop the driveshaft and transmission?
What happens if I don't use dynamat? Will I get a lot of NVH from the Steeda or MGW?

 

i have the hurst in my car and i have to say i love the throw, really short but the angle is a little rough. It hurts my wrist after a while of holding it. Kinda like typing on a key board for 8 hours straight lol

 

If I remember correctly, I used hand-o-meter & a box wrench. It's been fine for 2+ yrs now.


Didn't have to remove anything other then part of the center console (very easy).

 

How tight were the original bolts and nuts? So I don't need to touch the transmission or driveshaft?

 

I don't recall it being that involved, but it's been awhile and alot of mods sense.

Here's the install link over at MGW's site.
http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang2005_sh...allation.shtml

 

I must have watched those two clips at least 10+ times before i installed mine...it's easier to install than you think!

MGW FTW!

 

Should I order the shifter stop kit? What happens if I don't have a ratcheting box ended wrench in 13mm?