Which Short throw shifter?
#102
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: November 11, 2004
Location: South Georgia
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Not Dynamat, but...this might be easier to cut, form, and adhere to the shifter area (although I have no idea if Dynamat is this easy).
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10114/TID-0820
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...10114/TID-0820
#103
Hey guys, When I mentioned the added cabin noise, I wasn't being negative about it. I understand completely what caused it, and its not a problem. I just thought I would try to give an accurate review of this shifter since there was no previous review of the Roush. After two days of driving, it is less "notchy". It feels great to not have to thrash around for 3rd under hard acceleration.
#104
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
I didn't think you where being negative. My bad if my reply sounded like I did. :P Yea mine feels better and better everyday. Now after almost a week to me it feels smoother then stock. My wife took the car to the doctor today and believe me, she could care less what shifter, how big the tires, how thick stripe are, you get the idea LOL but even she said "Wow, that shifts real nice"
#106
Infinity turned me on to this stuff, the eDead V1se2:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24
It's alot cheaper than dynamat per the square foot. Not sure how it matches up on the mil thickness, but it works.
You can also stuff a bunch of old towels into the voids of the center console, especially around the shifter. I suppose as less redneck approach would be to use some of that expandable foam stuff instead...as long as it isn't harmful to plastic.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24
It's alot cheaper than dynamat per the square foot. Not sure how it matches up on the mil thickness, but it works.
You can also stuff a bunch of old towels into the voids of the center console, especially around the shifter. I suppose as less redneck approach would be to use some of that expandable foam stuff instead...as long as it isn't harmful to plastic.
#107
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Chris, I went to Home Depot and got some fender washers. Put 3 on each stud where the back of the shifter mounts and bam, what a difference. less overall sound and vibration. I still have the clicking noise but I almost have it tracked down. I drove around trying to create it and did so. I then Took the **** off and left the rubber boot on and the noise was still there. Took the rubber boot off and could not replicate the noise. Put the boot back on without the **** and left the boot fully stretched upward (not wrapped around and bolts) and still could not replicate the noise. Put the **** back on, noise back. have to get on a conference call but gonna mess with the **** some more after.
I am actually using some weather stripping wrapped tight and taped with duct tape at the top of the stick near the threads. The rubber boot stretches over it nice.
I am actually using some weather stripping wrapped tight and taped with duct tape at the top of the stick near the threads. The rubber boot stretches over it nice.
#108
I'm hoping MGW comes out with their 05-07 shifter real soon, I still have the stock shifter and I'm getting tired of waiting. MGW said he is looking at the end of december . he said the 05-07 shifter is going to be very quiet and shifts are going to be awesome.....hopefully, because I hate any kind of added noise in the interior. I might go with the tri-ax or pro 5.0 and do some of the sound deadening tricks that some of you have done.
#109
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
CAR, I can definately say the small rubber fender washers helped a ton. The rattle (clicking) noise I am heaing I narrowed down to the rubber bood and shiftknob. It is a sound that is always there but it looks like the boot and **** are allowing it be louder (bare in mind I am the only one with one of these shifters hearing this so it is something I did). Needless to say I have learned more about sound in the last 6 days then I have in 36 years. Other then that, it's pretty darn quiet. Also remember the Pro 5.0 and Steeda Tri-Ax are built for racing
#110
Yeah, those rubber fender washers are cool...I used them underneath my crossmember bolts in another hairbrained attempt to quiet the tranny. Only used one on each bolt. Probably not enough as it didn't do anything. Don't want to go crazy there and screw up the driveshaft angle...I am tempted to try rubber hose washers instead. Real problem is that I probably have an abnormally noisy tranny. Or highly sensitive ears. ("Just turn up the radio!!!")
As far as your clicking noise...is it as you're shifting or as you complete the shift? If its after you complete the shift, is it possible you're hitting the stop bolts? Some people find that "after click" desirable...to a certain exent. The only other thing to check is that jelly in the shifter ball - at least the Pro5.0 comes with a healthy dose of it oozing out, not sure about the Tri-Ax. Usually after the car warms up enough it turns into a soft goo and lubes the whole thing. I ended up emptying another half tube of infant petroleum jelly into the top and bottom (inside the clear boot) just because...
As far as your clicking noise...is it as you're shifting or as you complete the shift? If its after you complete the shift, is it possible you're hitting the stop bolts? Some people find that "after click" desirable...to a certain exent. The only other thing to check is that jelly in the shifter ball - at least the Pro5.0 comes with a healthy dose of it oozing out, not sure about the Tri-Ax. Usually after the car warms up enough it turns into a soft goo and lubes the whole thing. I ended up emptying another half tube of infant petroleum jelly into the top and bottom (inside the clear boot) just because...
#111
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
The clicking is actually after it is in gear. I hear when applying throttle.The more throttle applied, the faster the clicking or "rattleling" becomes. It doesn't happen all the time either, just most of the time. I had the **** off yesturday with just the rubber boot on and kept moving the boot a little and finally had it where there was no noise. I then put some weather stripping around the stich shift, pulled the top of the rubber boob around it, put the **** on tight, bam, clicking was back. I am sure it is a noise that is normally there just when the boot and stick are all closed up it sound is applified. Small amount of volume on the radio fixes it it LOL
#112
Team Mustang Source
I went to Lowe's and got some of this rubber material 1:16 thick called plumbers wrap. Cut a piece to go between the shifter bracket on the back and added another piece to the shifter lever. I'm hoping that will reduce any noise that is transmitted. Install tomorrow so I guess I'll find out.
#113
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Nice Rich. What department, plumbing? That looks like the stuff Chris was talking about.
Well it looks like my "clicking" noise is may actually be in the tranny. Another Steeda rep. drove the car this morning with me, heard it and actually felt it in the clutch. Not much to worry about in regards to something wearing out unless the car is driven hard all the time but it may be an issue down the road but nothing soon unless it bothers me. The noise was already there but it looks like the Tri-Ax is transferring the sound to where it can be heard. I will probably bring the car in to get it checked eventually. Even with the radio on I can't hear it....but I know it's there.
Can't say enough about the Steeda gang. Nice of them to help out as much as they have even though they didn't do the install.
Well it looks like my "clicking" noise is may actually be in the tranny. Another Steeda rep. drove the car this morning with me, heard it and actually felt it in the clutch. Not much to worry about in regards to something wearing out unless the car is driven hard all the time but it may be an issue down the road but nothing soon unless it bothers me. The noise was already there but it looks like the Tri-Ax is transferring the sound to where it can be heard. I will probably bring the car in to get it checked eventually. Even with the radio on I can't hear it....but I know it's there.
Can't say enough about the Steeda gang. Nice of them to help out as much as they have even though they didn't do the install.
#115
Pro5.0 shifter here. Some observations for anyone looking to install one:
1. It is a little bit of a pain, but you can install it from above, without dropping the driveshaft. It would definitely be helpful to have a 2nd set of hands. Take a little time to set the shift stops.
2. The instructions mention that the higher of the two settings is probably a good idea for anyone who isn't planning on doing a lot racing. I have used both and actually prefer the lower setting (both street and track).
3. Attach the shift lever to the passenger's side of the shifter. I had it on the driver's side and the boot was rubbing on the console. Put it on the other side and everything is perfect.
4. With the stock shift **** and boot, the look is almost stock. Anyone who has a new 5-speed Mustang will notice that the shifter sits lower and the boot is all pushed down into the console.
5. Take time to get the rubber boot situated properly in the tranny tunnel. It takes time and is a pain, but I bet that is the main cause of most of the increased interior noise.
6. First through fourth are a dream. Your elbow barely moves, just pull, push, pull. Fifth and reverse require a little muscle to get the shifter all the way over.
I never measured the stock shifter, but the throw for the two setting of the Pro5.0 are listed below:
Note: I used the center line on the top of the **** as my measurement point.
Higher Setting:
1st to 2nd: Three and 5/8ths
Lower Setting:
1st to 2nd: Two and 15/16ths
1. It is a little bit of a pain, but you can install it from above, without dropping the driveshaft. It would definitely be helpful to have a 2nd set of hands. Take a little time to set the shift stops.
2. The instructions mention that the higher of the two settings is probably a good idea for anyone who isn't planning on doing a lot racing. I have used both and actually prefer the lower setting (both street and track).
3. Attach the shift lever to the passenger's side of the shifter. I had it on the driver's side and the boot was rubbing on the console. Put it on the other side and everything is perfect.
4. With the stock shift **** and boot, the look is almost stock. Anyone who has a new 5-speed Mustang will notice that the shifter sits lower and the boot is all pushed down into the console.
5. Take time to get the rubber boot situated properly in the tranny tunnel. It takes time and is a pain, but I bet that is the main cause of most of the increased interior noise.
6. First through fourth are a dream. Your elbow barely moves, just pull, push, pull. Fifth and reverse require a little muscle to get the shifter all the way over.
I never measured the stock shifter, but the throw for the two setting of the Pro5.0 are listed below:
Note: I used the center line on the top of the **** as my measurement point.
Higher Setting:
1st to 2nd: Three and 5/8ths
Lower Setting:
1st to 2nd: Two and 15/16ths
#116
Team Mustang Source
Just got done installing the Pro 5.0 and here are some observations,
1. Installing the allen head bolts in the shifter arm was a PITA
2. The shifts are longer than the Hurst IMO
3. I like having the stock **** again
4. No noises or vibrations at all
5. Definitely smoother shifting than the Hurst, not notchy
6. Hard to get into 5th and reverse but I can live with it
7. It ROCKS!
1. Installing the allen head bolts in the shifter arm was a PITA
2. The shifts are longer than the Hurst IMO
3. I like having the stock **** again
4. No noises or vibrations at all
5. Definitely smoother shifting than the Hurst, not notchy
6. Hard to get into 5th and reverse but I can live with it
7. It ROCKS!
#118
Legacy TMS Member
Just got done installing the Pro 5.0 and here are some observations,
1. Installing the allen head bolts in the shifter arm was a PITA
2. The shifts are longer than the Hurst IMO
3. I like having the stock **** again
4. No noises or vibrations at all
5. Definitely smoother shifting than the Hurst, not notchy
6. Hard to get into 5th and reverse but I can live with it
7. It ROCKS!
1. Installing the allen head bolts in the shifter arm was a PITA
2. The shifts are longer than the Hurst IMO
3. I like having the stock **** again
4. No noises or vibrations at all
5. Definitely smoother shifting than the Hurst, not notchy
6. Hard to get into 5th and reverse but I can live with it
7. It ROCKS!
Congrats Rich- seems like it's been along time coming...... Also my 5th and R were pretty hard at first, but after a couple hundred miles they are only slightly harder than the first four gears. Give it time, it will break into what I believe is the best shifter available currently.
When you're ready Stoenr, call Mark or Jesse at Lightning Force Performance- they'll hook you up.
#120
Team Mustang Source