I use Motorcraft synthetic 5-20 and change it every 2,500 miles.

 

I'm in Germany as well and unless I want to pay $20 per liter for Mobil 1 5w-20, I gotta figure something else out. The only Mobil 1 I can get on base is 5w-30. Otherwise it's either Quaker or Castrol 5w-20 as far as full synth goes. I just did my last oil change with organic and going full synth next time. Thinking to run Mobil 1 5w-30. Shouldn't be that big of a difference from the 5w-20, should it?

 

That's what I use, and as far as the weight of oil to use (regardless of brand) is 5w20. Why? Uh, isn't that what it says on the oil cap?

 

Hey If its possible I could get you 8 quarts of mobil 1 super syn 5w-20 and a k&n filter and ship it to your APO or FPO. Get ahold of me on email. Im just not sure if you can ship a hazardous material such as oil to an apo overseas.

 

As mentioned Castrol Syn isnt synthetic, in fact it cant be labled Syn in Europe, only the US. It has sulfur and phosphorous and that helps lead to sludge formation in an engine.
Someone mentioned an article on oil, there is one here
http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm
Very interesting and informative.

 

Motorcraft 5w20 is good for up to a 5000 mile OCI. Use M1 or Amsoil if you want to do extended OCIs otherwise, you're just wasting money. I'd also recommend a MC FL820S.

 

Dont go extended miles between oil changes no mater what oil or filter you use. Id say no more then 5,000 miles, which is FORD recommend and I wouldnt go past that.

 

Without having a sample tested I'd agree but if the oil analysis says the oil is fine for another 5000 miles, why dump it? Now I realize this procedure is widely used by fleets in their big rigs with 30-gallon oil sumps and may be a little overkill for car owners where it's just as cheap (almost) to just change the **** oil.

 

My point exactly, You just bought a 30,000 dollar car and you wanna take the risk just to save a few dollars? My car gets frequent oil changes and has had nothing but 93 octane gas from reputible stations since I got it. If you take care of your Mustang it will take care of you.

 

I recently had to do my first oil change on my Stang. But on base, all I could get for 5w20 was full synthetic oil. So I dug through my magazines and came across the June 2005 Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords magazine. They had a small article called "oil myths exposed" that was informative. I don't have a scanner, but here's the jist of it. Warning: If you don't like to read, skip to the bottom.

Regardless of type, all oil begins as crude oil. Crude oil is refined to make base stocks. Some guy from Quaker State goes on to say "Base stock makes up about 80-85% of a quart of oil. The remaining % is made up of about a dozen additives that enhance certain properties. These may include antiwear, detergent, dispersants,foam inhibitors, friction modifiers, and a few others."
Mineral-based oils are the most common, but there are also synthetics and blended oil containing a mineral/synthetic mix.
Some dude from Royal Purple says: Synthetics are known as man-made oils, but they aren't created totally from scratch. They're still created from crude, but the refining process is much different than with mineral-based oils. Synthetics are first broken down or refined well beyond that of mineral oils, and then they are practically reconstructed so the chains of molecules are uniform. The additional refining is what drives up the cost of synthetics.
Synthetic oils offer superior high temperature oxidation resistance, higher film strength, a stable viscosity base, and better low-temp flow characteristics.
Someone else say's: Blends are just a combination of mineral and synthetics. Allowing manufacturers to build customized oils to fit the cost, compromise, and performance the customers desire.
And finally, the dude from Quaker answers the question about switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral oils. Yes. "in most cases you can switch back and forth, but I recommend that you stick with one brand or line of oil."

Ahhh... did someone say oil?

 

I'm surprised no one mentioned this before.
If you haven’t had an Oil Change in a year, way too Long between changes.
Leaving a car in storage for 6 Months, requires new oil (any type is good)
At the start and at the End of Storage.
There are many threads on this Site about Oil Changes, you can get caught up
In the Synthetic versus Dino if you want, Probably just a feel good for Vehicle abusers
(We all Know who We are.)
IMO: If you want to protect you’re Car change Oil based on Distance, Time and Usage.

 

There's two different castrols. Full syn and their blend. He's talking about the blend.

 

Not sure if you guys are referring to the article I posted a while ago or not.

Either way, here's a long but interesting read:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...6&postcount=27

Kristina

 

I wonder if we can put this subject to rest! Maybe start a sticky for actual information on different oil and lubricant products. Not just personal opinions or things weve heard (Which I myself am also guilty of) through the grapevine.

And by the way, very intresting Information Rondosa. I had heard Castrol was full oh $hit, but had'nt had a good explantion. Maybe someone has some reliable information on the new Mobil 1 Tri blend?

 

Great suggestion.

 

Ditch the Fram filter. Those filters are pure sh*t.

 

You may be right, but care to elaborate on why you posted that? The statement by itself doesn't mean a thing. I'm interested because that's all I can get here in Germany unless I buy through the Internet.

 

If you look at your owner's manual it will ask for 87 octane. Putting 93 octane in your car is not "better" for it unless you have a 93 octane tune. Matter of fact, putting in a higher octane than needed can be HARDER on your engine.

Same with oil change intervals. For instance, I put full synthetic in my car and I do not drive in many dusty areas. I also never drive my car in the winter. I will go longer than 5000 miles without changing the oil, and I don't feel that I am risking anything.

Now if you have a CAI on your car which allows more dust to enter through the intake, then perhaps you are putting your car at risk.

Also, I am basing these statements on my own personal experience. I went to school for automotive engineering and have owned 50+ vehicles as well as working on many more.

 

I agree with the above post, lets get a moderator to post a sticky on the age old oil questions.
I'll volenter to write for it, since I am in the oil business. Yes I will write an un-biased fair article. And not just sing the praises of 1 particular product.

I am currently in Daytona for the race, and am reading a press release from Joe Gibbs Racing. They have a new synthetic oil of there own on the market.
Tony Stewarts car was qualified with 5W20 synthetic in the engine. And will race sat. night with it also.
Was ran the last 3 races with 5w20 also. Obviously it is JGR oil.
If it last 500 miles at wfo throttle, why not use 5w20 on the street.
I have delivered 0 weight & 10 weight oil here for qualifing and for race day also.
It does not matter about the brand or the brag, just the facts.
API rated for your auto, reccomended by the manufacture in the owners manual, and easy to aquire in your location.
There is not a bad oil on the market as long as it passes API standards.
Whether it be "dino" or Syn, it all does the same thing.
Sort of like women, built with the same accessorys, just different models to choose from.
And, both oil and women come in different price ranges.

TDS