Oil Analysis Report
6/26/07, 11:32 AM
#41
Team Mustang Source
Thread Starter
I had another analysis done, this time with 5-30 Mobil 1, at around 4,500 miles. The results were quite a bit different this time. I'm not sure if the results reflect the thicker oil, or the warmer temperatures. The previous oil run was during the heart of winter with plenty of very cold starts. This run has been much warmer outside. At any rate, I am going to try 5-20 Pennzoil Platinum next and see what happens.
6/26/07, 07:05 PM
#43
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Here is a good read for ya. Its 123 pages long but it should help you to make up your mind on which oil is best for your car.
http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/M...eers%20PDF.pdf
Right now I'm using Redline 5w20 for the additive package, an EAO-11 Amsoil oil filter because it filters down to 15 microns with a 98.7% efficiency and its got a FilterMag on it. (the 300lb type $39.00)
The additive package you want in your engine should be the deciding factor whether it be 0w20, 5w20, 0w30 or 5w30. Next is the best oil filter money can buy, which happens to be the EAO from Amsoil. (at this time)
Ya I'm excessive.
The same guy that put a Stef's oil seperator on his engine so that the intake would be oil free.
You ask a 100 people which oil is the best and you'll get 100 different replies.
I am going to do a UOA but not with Blackstone. I will probably use Dyson.
Got to put about 4000 more miles on the Redline.
Happy reading
http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/M...eers%20PDF.pdf
Right now I'm using Redline 5w20 for the additive package, an EAO-11 Amsoil oil filter because it filters down to 15 microns with a 98.7% efficiency and its got a FilterMag on it. (the 300lb type $39.00)
The additive package you want in your engine should be the deciding factor whether it be 0w20, 5w20, 0w30 or 5w30. Next is the best oil filter money can buy, which happens to be the EAO from Amsoil. (at this time)
Ya I'm excessive.
The same guy that put a Stef's oil seperator on his engine so that the intake would be oil free. You ask a 100 people which oil is the best and you'll get 100 different replies.
I am going to do a UOA but not with Blackstone. I will probably use Dyson.
Got to put about 4000 more miles on the Redline.
Happy reading
6/26/07, 10:19 PM
#44
Team Mustang Source
Thread Starter
The last oil run I did had an Amsoil EAO filter on it and I got only decent results on the analysis. This run had the Motorcraft filter on it, and my results were 2X better. This run my insolubles were down to .1%, they were .2% last run. I do believe in the EAO filters, but obviously the Motorcraft is doing an excellent job too. I think I'll stick to the motorcraft filters. They are much cheaper and good quality from what I can tell.
6/27/07, 04:51 AM
#46
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The last oil run I did had an Amsoil EAO filter on it and I got only decent results on the analysis. This run had the Motorcraft filter on it, and my results were 2X better. This run my insolubles were down to .1%, they were .2% last run. I do believe in the EAO filters, but obviously the Motorcraft is doing an excellent job too. I think I'll stick to the motorcraft filters. They are much cheaper and good quality from what I can tell.
Good choice.........or is it. See below
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...tml#motorcraft
Sooner or later you will find the right combination, ya just gotta keep read'in and runn'in those UOA's.
6/27/07, 05:06 AM
#47
Legacy TMS Member
Quite frankly I haven't heard of many engines failing because of an extra 10 ppm wear of iron/aluminium every OCI that you might save using $6/qt oil and $10/filter.
I wouldn't waste the extra money on Amsoil engine oil and Amsoil oil filters because Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 and a FL-820-S is supposed to be good for 7500 miles according to Ford (I recall that they're now extending the OCI's). Engines aren't made of paper. I wouldn't mind spending more on ATF and gear oil since they're not changed frequently but engine oil is engine oil. As long as it meets the Ford spec and the oil filter is good (FL-820-S for $3-$3.50/filter, OEM spec, can't beat this deal), you're good to go. I use the cheapest quality 87 octane fuel I can find for the GT. I haven't heard it ping/detonate at WOT with my A/C running in the summer heat while going up a steep hill.
I wouldn't waste the extra money on Amsoil engine oil and Amsoil oil filters because Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 and a FL-820-S is supposed to be good for 7500 miles according to Ford (I recall that they're now extending the OCI's). Engines aren't made of paper. I wouldn't mind spending more on ATF and gear oil since they're not changed frequently but engine oil is engine oil. As long as it meets the Ford spec and the oil filter is good (FL-820-S for $3-$3.50/filter, OEM spec, can't beat this deal), you're good to go. I use the cheapest quality 87 octane fuel I can find for the GT. I haven't heard it ping/detonate at WOT with my A/C running in the summer heat while going up a steep hill.
6/27/07, 05:25 AM
#48
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Quite frankly I haven't heard of many engines failing because of an extra 10 ppm wear of iron/aluminium every OCI that you might save using $6/qt oil and $10/filter.
I wouldn't waste the extra money on Amsoil engine oil and Amsoil oil filters because Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 and a FL-820-S is supposed to be good for 7500 miles according to Ford (I recall that they're now extending the OCI's). Engines aren't made of paper. I wouldn't mind spending more on ATF and gear oil since they're not changed frequently but engine oil is engine oil. As long as it meets the Ford spec and the oil filter is good (FL-820-S for $3-$3.50/filter, OEM spec, can't beat this deal), you're good to go. I use the cheapest quality 87 octane fuel I can find for the GT. I haven't heard it ping/detonate at WOT with my A/C running in the summer heat while going up a steep hill.
I wouldn't waste the extra money on Amsoil engine oil and Amsoil oil filters because Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 and a FL-820-S is supposed to be good for 7500 miles according to Ford (I recall that they're now extending the OCI's). Engines aren't made of paper. I wouldn't mind spending more on ATF and gear oil since they're not changed frequently but engine oil is engine oil. As long as it meets the Ford spec and the oil filter is good (FL-820-S for $3-$3.50/filter, OEM spec, can't beat this deal), you're good to go. I use the cheapest quality 87 octane fuel I can find for the GT. I haven't heard it ping/detonate at WOT with my A/C running in the summer heat while going up a steep hill.
Thats why its a good idea to base your selection of motor oils and filters on published facts and data.
Research into these areas is available on the Internet.
6/27/07, 11:32 AM
#49
Team Mustang Source
Thread Starter
Well I'm switching to 5-20 Pennzoil Platinum because I picked up a bunch of it at Advance Auto Parts BOGO sale a few months ago. It worked out to be about $2.40 a quart. Not too much more than the motorcraft oil. With the full syn I am comfortable going 7,500 miles between changes which will save me $$ and time since I drive so much. (25,000 miles/yr) I know Ford says the motorcraft oil is good for 7500, but only in certain engines and the 4.6 is not one of them.
6/27/07, 03:41 PM
#50
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Hey Steve how have the guy's up in St. Louis? I call andy and bean up and bill from time to time. As for the oil i personally use Mobil-1 5w-30 Full Synthetic and Mobil-1 Oil Filter.
6/27/07, 08:00 PM
#51
Team Mustang Source
Thread Starter
I never met those guys because something came up and I never made it to the dyno day that was scheduled. I really wanted to go, but oh well.
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