got a quote today for $5 per lb. no labor, I might have to look further into this option since I may never have the kind of cash for an SC or turbo

 

I pay 4.25/lb, a blow down tube is there to release pressure not prevent burst in an accident. If you crack the bottle a blow down tube will do nothing. If you live in a cold climate be careful with a bottle warmer as it has been known to crack bottles when trying to heat up from too cold of a temperature. If you need it warm in freezing weather submerge it in water instead. Anything can happen in the event of an accident, if it was my child the bottle would be removed when they are in the car just in case I was rear ended.

 

FYI

Make sure they freeze the bottle prior to fill up.

 

Can I run Hot Rod or Detroit Rocker cams with this setup or would I need to upgrade the fuel system?

 

Spend the money on your fuel system. It's never money wasted, it's difficult to make a fuel system too powerful.

 

So I'm thinking about this setup:
Zex kit(start out at 75 but will want to try 100 and 125 as well)
TPS switch
window switch
purge kit
pressure gauge
bottle heater
39lb injectors
Kenne Bell BAP(The GT500 pumps are too expensive for me)
HT0 spark plugs
FRPP Hot Rod or Brenspeed Detroit Rocker Cams(haven't decided)
LT's eventually

 

There are a couple different Zex setups for our cars. If you go with the typical 82034 kit then you don't need the TPS switch, it's within the NMU. I would invest in fuel and nitrous pressure gauges. Electrical if your budget allows.

 

I live in sunny Florida where the temps never get below 50. At what temps do you need the bottle warmer, or is it just a performance improver?

 

I would buy the fuel pumps and skip the cams but that's just me.

Yes you should always have a bottle warmer so you can achieve the proper bottle pressure.

 

Cams have been planned for awhile now and would go in despite any power adder plans.

Revised List:
Zex kit(start out at 75 but will want to try 100 and 125 as well)
Blow Down kit
window switch
purge kit
Bottle pressure gauge
Fuel Pressure gauge
Nitrous Pressure gauge
bottle heater
39lb injectors
Kenne Bell BAP(The GT500 pumps are too expensive for me)
HT0 spark plugs
FRPP Hot Rod or Brenspeed Detroit Rocker Cams(haven't decided)
LT's eventually

 

Chris rose, I have a bama tune. My car has a bbk 62mm twin TB, spectre 100mm maf housing I believe, long tube headers 2.5" collector's 1.750" primarys, ford racing hot rod cams, Bama 93 tunes, charge motion plate delete, off road Hpipe. I have a cheap dynotune nitrous kit I got from ebay. From my last fox body I had two nx super shot solonoids good till 400hp shot. I ended up using the dynotune solenoid for my purge and it works good enough to bleed the lines. Anyways my kit bases their jet sizes off the flywheel and comes with 75-150 shot. It works great with the nx solonoids hits hard as ever with the "150" shot in. According to nitrous express jet chart my "150" shot is actually a 125rwhp. So I bought .067 nitrous and .038 fuel. That is 175rwhp and 200bhp. If I go into my tuner can I pull timing from my global timing? And do u recommend I add fuel at WOT. If so how much. If it blows it blows this winter I was going to find a old 5.4 3v and forge the lower and bolt up all my stuff to it. I am running autolite ht0 plugs stock gap. Stock fuel system. What should I do about the timing and wot fuel? I know bama won't tune over a 100 shot. Also say if I wanted to just keep the 125 in could I data log my car and send YOU the file so I could have u tune it. I am looking for as much as u can give me. Safety is not really to much of a concern at this point because I am losing that motor this winter. So I wanna finish the end of the season at least breaking into the 11s just once before the build. Please get back with me I would love to have u take a look at my tune and make some changes. My tune seems very conservative, I feel like the car should have more in it when I run the motor tune. It's seem like it was faster with the stock cams.

 

Chris rose, I have a bama tune. My car has a bbk 62mm twin TB, spectre 100mm maf housing I believe, long tube headers 2.5" collector's 1.750" primarys, ford racing hot rod cams, Bama 93 tunes, charge motion plate delete, off road Hpipe. I have a cheap dynotune nitrous kit I got from ebay. From my last fox body I had two nx super shot solonoids good till 400hp shot. I ended up using the dynotune solenoid for my purge and it works good enough to bleed the lines. Anyways my kit bases their jet sizes off the flywheel and comes with 75-150 shot. It works great with the nx solonoids hits hard as ever with the "150" shot in. According to nitrous express jet chart my "150" shot is actually a 125rwhp. So I bought .067 nitrous and .038 fuel. That is 175rwhp and 200bhp. If I go into my tuner can I pull timing from my global timing? And do u recommend I add fuel at WOT. If so how much. If it blows it blows this winter I was going to find a old 5.4 3v and forge the lower and bolt up all my stuff to it. I am running autolite ht0 plugs stock gap. Stock fuel system. What should I do about the timing and wot fuel? I know bama won't tune over a 100 shot. Also say if I wanted to just keep the 125 in could I data log my car and send YOU the file so I could have u tune it. I am looking for as much as u can give me. Safety is not really to much of a concern at this point because I am losing that motor this winter. So I wanna finish the end of the season at least breaking into the 11s just once before the build. Please get back with me I would love to have u take a look at my tune and make some changes. My tune seems very conservative, I feel like the car should have more in it when I run the motor tune. It's seem like it was faster with the stock cams.

 

Do you still tune for 3vs ? I need a tune. Lol if so how can I contact you