wallace

+1 exactly!!

ren274u

i know what your feeling your having, change your converter and no more problems.

2K05GT

Tucker (Australian for Food)
You are correct, I changed the title to reflect the real issue,
After posting it went a different way... Sorry...

All CAI Heat Shields can allow heat to be drawn up into the intake

This has nothing to do with the JLT II Intake......I am Very Happy with my JLT II (I Love it)
I has everything to do with the Tunes and CMDP

GRAYPNY

CMDP's are never going to go on my car!

2K05GT

I am only blocking off the back side near the Manifold, when your sitting at idle waiting to race the heat comes up through that area and the intake it sucking up all that hot air, I can watch the temp rise from 100 to 150 in 15 seconds, I left the front part open thats where the cool air is coming from No engine there all I can see is pavment.

I have Roush UDP, but the real issue is that I have two tunes
One From SCT Tuner 1 and the other from SCT tuner 2
SCT Tuner 1's Tune I ran for a year was just for my intake.
SCT Tuner 1 is real busy and never returns my requests so I purchased a
tune from a very popular SCT Tuner 2 with the FRPP CMDP.
SCT Tuner 2's tune has an issue with the low end launch It feels like the timing is off and the car will not move until 3000 rpm. Meanwhile SCT Tuner 1 got back to me and added CMDP to my previous tune.
this tune does not experience this low end power loss. I step on the gas and the tires smoke..

So you say then why not just stick with SCT Tuner 1's tune. Well the Tune is Weak, shift points are off and my 1/4 mile time with this tune are average. 13.3-13.4 @ 104

SCT Tuner 2's Shift points are SICK !! Awsome the car is a freaking beast above 3000 rpm I think I could hit 13.1 - 13.2 with it, if I can get the the can to revv up when I hit the gas,

Tuner 1 - 60' = 1.88
Tuner 2 - 60' = 2.3 no tire spin at all the car just won't move

I do not want to list the tuners names because this is not a who's tunes are better.

wallace

"if you have two quarterbacks,then you have none."
john madden

ScottM

I really don't think that's true, well the hurting him part. Did you see the thread Doug started here were he installed a set then tuned it and saw 6-8HP increase across the board? He even stated that nothing was lost down low, at all.

Sure, every cars different and dyno numbers don't mean squat, blah blah blah, but it would be kind of difficult for it to help one car and then significantly hurt another to the point you could actually feel it, especially since so many have had good luck with them, unless there was something wrong with the tune or install.

Buschris

These aren't "cold air intakes" by any means. And the heat shield isn't the best in the world. You'd think Ford would have come up with a better way to get the outside air to come into the engine bay through the fender, but apparently that is NOT the case. You'd be surprised how much air does not come up from under the car.

Tucker

If you have tested this, then please post your data to support these claims.
Tons of members here have tested this, posted data as well as us at JLT.

When your moving you will see your IAT's drop fast. I just did it again this morning.
68 degrees outside and IAT's @ 55-60mph was 68-70 degrees. At 20-30 it was running 78-80 degrees IAT.

We have tested this on most all our systems and find that the 05-up GT, V6 and F-150 kits avarage 8-15 degrees above ambiant air temp @ 20-30mph and as low as 2-10 degrees above ambiant air temp.

Testing this is simple. You can use a Livewire or a laptop with the SCT software from the web site. Datalogging is the only way to know your IAT temps.
Thanks
Jay

2K05GT

I have tested both my IAT temps and I used a remote temp sensor and most of the air comes from just beneth the headlight under the fender while moving. Most of the heat while standing still comes from the engine compartment just behind the antilock brake unit. by blocking off this area I was able to reduce the standing idle temps by about 5 degrees, really not worth the trouble I went through to do it. but was fun trying.
Some one posted using a secondary 12 volt fan under the headlight forcing air torwards the intake to help reduce the idle air temps, I wonder if this helps?

I would like to reduce the idle temps when Drag Racing I think it would help the 60' times to be able to have cooler air at launch.

JonW

Spectre makes components for DIY CAIs. Including an adapter to fasten a 3" hose to the end of a conical air filter. I have visions of doing that and running the hose down into the lower grille area, as my '68 442 W30 was.