The thing I like the most from they FAYS setup is that it dose not matter what the other suspension parts are. It is adjustable to the ride height of the car. At least it looks that way. The grigs looks nice as well. Although as long as the price does not skyrocket, I will be buying a FAYS for my car. I like to upgrade my car slowly and feel the difference in handling and grow with it. Doing the full suspension at once would probably shock me as I would have to relearn how my car handles all over again. For example I have a strut tower brace in my car now, most ppl say they don't notice a difference, I guess its my driving style but I noticed a big difference. I even took it off and drove without it through some twisty roads. It definitely works in my book.

At the moment I jumped on the billet lower control arms from roush and will probably install them this Sunday (scheduled delivery is Saturday). Reason I jumped on it was because they were very cheep compared to just about anything else in the market, not to mention they should provide near stock ride comfort with some reduced weight and more precise suspension geometry.

Now im waiting for my bonus. Cant spend all my cash rite now, the holidays are near. I will report back when I actualy have it installed in my car. I only have one question for Sam Strano, will he void my warranty if I painted the watts link frame from red to black?

 

We can talk about black... we've had a few done in black from time to time. We did one for a Bullitt a few weeks back in black.

They difference with a Watts exceeds by far the quibbling over STB's and whether or not they work. In fact the difference is a close second to what a set of really good shocks do. There aren't two bigger changes you can make regarding composure and stability of the car.

As for rear bars: I can't say it's work in conjunction with every rear bar out there. The Watts bracket or "cage" bolts up the the PHB body mount on the right rear, and the PHB body brace mount on the left rear. It runs across the back, behind the rear axle from side to side. It works with stock rear bars, so as long as the aftermarket bar you have runs in the same way (and the FRPP stuff does) there should be no issue.

 

Thanks, Sam. I'll probably ordering one of these from you in the near future. The only hesitation with the FRPP bar is that although it mounts the same as the stocker, it bends in more towards the diff when viewed from the top. I'll just have to mount it and see.

 

My car isn't around for me to look at right now, so I can't be more specific. Again, I'd recommend you just slide under and see how the bar aligns with the Ford PHB mounting points (which the watts link bolts to).

 

Do any of you with the fays2 watts link see an increase in nvh, if so how much?

 

^^ Any update on this?

My two questions are:

(1) Is a rear sway bar still necessary with the Fays2 installed? (My guess would be yes, it does something different, right?)

(2) Which rear sway bars, besides the OEM bar, fit? Hate to drop 300 bones on a bar and not be able to use it.

Thx!

 

Will the Fays2 clear the LPW low profile rear cover?

Earl

 

1. Yes. In fact as the RC is lowered, you generally want more rear roll stiffness. You do not want to run with no rear bar.

2. Which bars fit. Because there are so many different bars out there I can't tell you everyone one that fits. I know the OEM bars do as I have customers with GT's and Bullitt's running the Watts link. There are customers with GT500's, and Shelby GT's also using it, so we know the bars they come with work (Eibach in the case of the SGT). The build was done on a car with a Steeda rear bar, so we know that works as well. I suspect most bars for coupes will not have any trouble, some convertible specific bars might be an bit more of an issue.

As for differential covers... That's tougher. Really the safe thing to assume is that any cover that is thicker (sticks out more toward the rear) is cutting into room. Again, because of all the other aftermarket parts around it's been near impossible to try every combination out....

 

Thanks, Sam. The OEM differential cover works fine though, right?

 

Sure does...

 

Hello, by searching this forum I found this discussion.

My introducing you will find here

https://themustangsource.com/showthread.php?t=478162

I want to complete my suspension, current H&R coilover, with the Watts Link from fays2.

My question is, do any of you with the fays2 watts link see an increase in nvh, if so how much?

Thanks

Christian

 

Yes there is an increase in nvh, Its well worth it in my book. How much is a relative term, I find the stock exhaust loud enough as a reference, and sometimes too loud. This I can say though, the watts link is weird with nvh, during big bumps and uneven road surfaces it does not make any more noise than stock, but on small imperfections it does.

Make absolutely sure you install the watts link properly though. Be careful of shops that install it. I went through major headaches with mine and its still not right. My rear axle is not 100% on center. Its about 1/2 inch to the right at the moment. Use lock tight on ALL the bolts and nuts. The blue lock tight gel works nicely.

I am planing on replacing my stock rear sway bar next, and during that time I will realign the rear properly. Just haven't decided on what rear sway bar to put on. Looking at the gt500 unit, but I don't know how much stiffer it is relatively to the gt one if any.

 

I wouldn't spend the money on the GT500 sway bar. The key with sway bars (as Sam Strano said in another thread) is to match the front and back in size (regardless of brand), otherwise you'll have an unbalanced car.

 

I developed a set of bars for the car, and the rear bar specifically to fit and work with Watts link cars. In fact I have them on my car right now..... Two reasons I did this. My rear bar is lighter than any other rear bar out there because mine is a tubular 22mm. Very few tubular (hollow) bars exist for the rear, and the ones that do are 25mm (1") which is too much. And then the kicker: My rear bar is 3-way adjustable as well.

I also have a tubular 35mm front bar as well, and it too is 3-way adjustable. You can get them individually, or as a set. There is a slight discount for a complete set. The production run is in process at this time.

There is one catch for the convertible guys.... My rear bar won't work for you. In an effort to make things simple, light, and to package around the Watts links (also works fine with a PHB) I decided to skip trying to make it fit around the convertible bracing.

I'll finish with this point. There are lots of bars around for the car. I carry most of them. I felt I could do better based on my background and now having had 3 years in an S197 in competition. Still have Eibach, Steeda, Hotchkis and Hellwig bars too, but I got to sit and think, compare and contrast, and work on what I thought was best.

 

Hey Sam, I see how the fronts are adjustable, as there are three bolt holes for the endlinks to choose between, but how do you get the rear one adjustable given the way it mounts?? Any pictures you have?

 

No pictures I'm afraid..... but it's also 3 holes, and it's all very simple bolted on to existing mounts. No cutting, drilling, welding, no harder to install than a stock bar.

There is a mount that bolts the axle that carries a bolt and bushing. When you adjust the bar, it rocks forward or backward in it's mounts allowing you to move the bar relative to the end mount and choose which lever arm length you want. It's really quite simple and dead effective. Instead of moving the link, like we do in the front.... in the rear be move the bar instead. But you get a shorter lever arm, and that's what makes the bar stiffer.

 

Would this be compatible with billet end links like I already have, or is a totally different setup?

 

If you're current bar is a 22mm, you can use the bushings and billet stuff you have in hand already with my bar. FWIW, I know everyone calls them 'endlinks', including all the other vendors--but they aren't, and technically shouldn't call them that.

They aren't at the end of the bar, and aren't the links to make it work, they are billet mounts. The rear doesn't use endlinks in any normal sense.

Anyway, I digress. Yes you can use your billet "endlinks".

 

Yeah, you're right, they're in the middle of the bar, and don't really link it to anything other than the body, hence the 'mount' term.

Let me know when you get them ready, I'd like to have an adjustable rear bar (have the Steeda up front which is already adjustable).

 

Hey Sam I was wondering if your adjustable rear sway bar can be adjusted tighter on one side to put a preload on one side for drag launching?


Earl