The stock Mustang would handle better if it weren't as tall.

As for lightening, you can upgrade to an aluminum driveshaft (Stock 43lbs-->Al ~17-20), a steeda tubular radiator support (they say its half the weight of stock, but I don't know how much that is), chrome moly trailing arms (~5lbs lighter), tubluar A-arms (11lbs lighter), lightweight k-member (44 versus 24 lbs), etc. The list goes on. You can definitely get the 30 lbs back off the car, but its going to cost you. The trick is reducing unsprung weight. One option is to skip the 20" rims and stick with 17" or 18's.

 

I went with the Saleen Watts Link through JDM and they soon after sent the "fix part" for the recall... at no charge. Didn't even know about the recall until the part showed up. JDM did right by me. I'm sure looking forward to driving my Mustang when I get home from Iraq.

Russ

 

I installed the Watts link on Torrences car and it weighs about 30 lbs but you are removing the factory panhard par so the actual weight gain is less than 20 lbs total. Like I told Torrence when he brought this to me this is a hard core road race piece. It makes the rear of the car extremely stiff and plants both wheels on heavy lateral acceleration. I would not even consider this modification to a stock suspension car. This part is designed for someone that has done all the normal upgrades already and is looking to take it to the next level.

The Shelby vs BMW argument is pretty funny since you are comparing an IRS AWD car to a RWD muscle car. A Ford designed IRS is not the answer to a good handling Mustang. Ford put an IRS in the Cobra for a few years and it rode well, but handling was not greatly improved. A solid axle car with the right suspension will excel at the track. I have a heavily modified 88 LX with a 3 link rear suspension setup and it will run with heavily modified BMWs with no problem. It might not handle bumps as well as a tuned IRS will but lateral acceleration is every bit as good.

 

To me it does.... The car is very, very stiff. Little movement is needed for where you want the car to go, there is hardly any oversteer. My suspension is done, but again one of the main reasons I chose this piece was that I was able to keep my frpp setup. Car just feels completely tight now..... Check my sig for my complete suspension set up. I went to VA last weekend so I had a nice drive to test the piece out on. Took the car back to the dealer were I got it from in Newport News for the 1st oil change and they were like

I can really take corners like a mad man now due to the piece, keeping the wheels on the ground allowing me to accerate all through the corner/turn. Very sharp turns are a different story though.

 

Torrance, Put a Torsen T2 in your car and you will love it even more. I've had Torsen's in two of my Mustang'san I do road race them. And I love them. Nice mod. That's my next mod. How was the intall itself (ease of install).

 

Torsen T2, what exactly is that? You guys make me spend so much money.......

CJ's said that they had a coulpe questions so they called the manufacturer and got answers, then there was something hitting up against my sway bar and that was fixed, I think the install time was like 2 1/2 to 3hrs...

 

How so?

 

I mean this mod is good, but you have to use common sense when taking any turn. I just don't want anyone to get the wrong idea and take a sharp turn and think this watts link will make the car handle through it, I guess I am saying use caution, when you know the turns you can and can't accelerate through is when you will notice the difference. I have gone through turns in this car with the watts link at 100mph, but on certain turns I won't, just knowing how severe the turn is.

 

if one were to study the attatchment points of the fays2 watts link, then it would be understood that there is no unsprung weight added to the rear suspension. i thought the same thing until i got re-edumicated. there is weight added to the cars rear half, and it is not unsprung weight. is the panhard bar unsprung weight? this unit replaces the panhard bar doesn't it? i am open to be re-edumicated, once again.

 

does it also replace the sway bar? I dont see one?

 

So what other modifications would you then recommend for a stock suspension car ? Currently I have no immediate plans to lower my suspension, nor change the stock dampers ect.

However I do want to keep both wheels planted on the ground, while also reducing lateral movement of the rear axle. Therefore if the Fay's 2 Watts Link, isn't recommended for a stock suspension car. Then which watts link unit, would you then recommend

 

Perhaps you may also know if the Griggs Watts Link might be compatible with the stock suspension. If you're not familiar with the Griggs unit, I've also posted the product/description link for you to look over.


http://www.griggsracing.com/index.ph...4328_2040_3680

 

Yeah, You could use the restroom before you get in the car...

 

Always a good idea!

 

UCA's/ LCA's. Front and rear sway bars. This should be your starting point.

 

I do have a rear sway bar, it must of been removed for the install, but I do have one on the car with the Watts Link.

 

+1 control arms make a huge difference, especially off the line. Swaybars help in the corners too. Consider getting a new panhard rod (adjustable if you want to lower your car later on) and lateral stiffener (panhard rod support). I put those in with the rear swaybar and it was so much more controllable than stock.

But also consider this: Wheels and tires. A lower profile set of stickier tires is going to make a HUGE difference, just try to keep the weight down. 20's look great but they're heavy as crap. My stock wheels weigh 49lbs each with tires mounted, just to give you a reference to start with.

 

True.... Sticky tires are always good. Nitto 555's baby!

 

Those who think it adds a lot of unsprung weight are wrong. Those that think you add no unsprung weight are wrong.

You add some unsprung weight. About 10 pounds of the total is in fact unsprung. The axle clamps and the arms are unsprung. The frame and bellcrank are sprung weight. That said you are losing the shot filled PHB which is half unsprung weight (as half is bolted the the axle, half to the body). You add about 7-8 pounds or so of unsprung weight to the axle after replacing the PHB.

You do add more sprung weight. The frame is where most of the mass is, but it's all sprung weight as it's all bolted to the body and supported by the springs.

 

No, the swaybar is a separate thing, and a Watts link or PHB does not do away with the bars. In fact if you choose to run a Watts in one of the lower roll center heights, you want a bigger rear bar.