Hey guys,
Got an install question for you guys that have put on Earl's SS brake lines. How are most of you bleeding the brakes? The old fashion way with another guy or gal pumping the brakes or with the new power bleeders? My lines are on their way so I have a need to know.
Thanks Scott

 

Well I just purchased my Earls SS lines. I was .01 cent away from free shipping. And there was nothing else on that site that I needed. $8 ground shipping... Hah oh well.

 

Earl's Speed Bleeder's will get'r done.

http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...d5161247bd0f73

 

Whats the difference between that above and buying a brake bleeder from an automotive store?

 

Thanks Alex,
I have never seen those before. I was going to order a set than I looked at the them a little closer and it says they need to be in a horizontal position to work. All 4 bleeders on our cars are in a vertical position. Makes we wonder if they would not work correctly on our cars. I went back and looked at them again and am just wondering if they are just trying to tell you they need to be in the closed position not in the horizontal position.
Scott

 

You still have the pump the brake pedal, but you do not have to keep the pedal pushed in to close the bleeder, so it only takes one person. It lets fluid out when pumping the pedal, but when you stop pumping, the valve closes the bleeder and air can't get back in. You can then go to that caliper, screw the bleeder closed, and move on to the next one. I can bleed the brakes in a matter of minutes like this.

The bleeders on my stock calipers are in the horizontal position.

 

Well....I changed back to my stock wheels and tires yesterday for winter and I know for sure the rear calipers had the bleeder on top of the calipers because I looked. On the fronts I thought I looked and they were pointing up but I would not swear to it on the fronts. I will need to check that out again. Anyone else know for sure?
Scott

 

Your re-read is correct. The diagram is just saying that they need to be in the closed, i.e. screwed in fully, position to operate the car and brakes. Doesn't matter where the bleed screw is located on the caliper for these to work (although our fronts are horizontal and our rears are vertical).

I've been using these all year and during the track season I was flushing my brakes every few weeks and bleeding them at least once a weekend during a track weekend. These things make brake bleeds and flushing a simple, one person job. Did I mention they promote marital harmony? My wife was getting sick of pedal duty...

I wrapped their threads in teflon tape to prevent air from leaking past the threads. Although the design of these will not allow air leaking past the threads to enter the brake system (unlike the Speed Bleeders brand which relies on thread sealant), sealing the threads makes it easier to know for sure that all bubbles are out of your lines when you are watching the bleed/flush (easy to do with these--just crouch down and push the pedal with your hand and you can watch your catch bottle by looking under the car).

 

Yep, my bad, the rears are vertical and fronts are horizontal. Either way, the Earl's bleeders work flawlessly. Just one thing, make sure you don't overtighten them. The bottom of the valve doesn't like it much.

 

Hey Alex,
Thanks for the hot tip. Are those valves really $10 each. I was about to get a set but it's hard to believe they that expensive. But considering having to fight with the wife about pumping the pedal correctly they are probably cheap at twice the price. Also, does the same part number fit all four calipers. It say rear in the ad.
Scott

 

Wouldn't you bleed the calipers one at a time, so you'd only need one??

 

Ahhh Grasshopper... if you pull it out of the calipers you will let air into the system. That is why they have a spring loaded plunger. When they are opened slightly the spring loaded plunger will allow fluid out of the system when you push the brake pedal but it will seal up inside the caliper when you stop. Keeping air from being sucked back into the system. So you would need 4 of them because after you do each wheel you will close it completely and move on to the next wheel. It takes a fair amount of coordination between the pedal pusher and the brake bleeder to do a good job. If you have never bled brakes before the last person you want to do it with is your wife. Trust me. Buck up for the $40 bucks or I will come help you.
Scott

 

Dumb question:

"So you would need 4 of them because after you do each wheel you will close it completely and move on to the next wheel."

Again since you're doing one wheel at a time, why would you need four LOL? You're right I've never done it before, so I'm probably missing the obvious.

 

Because after you bleed a caliper, you can't remove the self-bleeder... or air would get in. So you need 4.

 

Your not crazy. But once you bleed a caliper you have to lock it off so air can't get into the system and then move to the next wheel and do the same. You need 4 to keep the system closed to the outside.
Scott

 

Thanks guys, I guess I need to do it once to understand what you're both saying. Where's the step by step for bleeding brakes? Brakes for Dummies, LOL?

 

the secret is in the name of the product

"speed"

open all 4 of them at the same time and pump away. you can flush a quart of fluid through the system in no time.

you will need 4 old pop bottles and 4 short hoses so you dont make a mess all over the paddock/ garage/ driveway


jay

 

$10 a pair. Actually, the site says Earl's Solo-Bleed Bleeder Screws, Front (10mm x 1in x 32mm) [280040ERL]. And on my invoice showed (1998-2002) at the end. However, what we're looking for is the size, 10mmx1inx32mm. It's acually a hair longer than the stock bleeders, but the thread size is the same. I've had them on since last May with no problems. We'll O.K., a slight torque problem that was user error.


Yep, that's what I do. Works like a charm.

 

While we`re at it;
How do you push the rear brake piston back into the caliper?
As I will change out my fluid when I install the new Earls SS lines I want to push all four pistons back in as far as possible then open the bleeders to flush out the old fluid with the least amount of volume.
I understand there is a twisting motion involved with maybe a special tool.
Anybody been there done that ?

Thanks

 

Good tip!!!!!!!!!!