Coast Driveline 1-piece aluminum driveshaft install (w/pics)
1/22/08, 04:52 PM
#62
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Looks like both of your cars are lowered. I also have a Spydershaft but my car is NOT lowered. I have about 100 miles on my install and I will be under the car this weekend. I will be looking at things very closely!!
Scott
1/23/08, 08:00 AM
#63
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It's a good idea to look over the whole DS periodically for damage no matter what manufacturer or diameter you have.
1/23/08, 08:07 AM
#64
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I wonder if adding some dynamat or something soft like that to the hump would help with protection?
1/23/08, 08:10 AM
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My spydershaft used to rub, so I always figured it was pinion angle adjustment needed, I guessed my installer did it wrong. So last week i installed BMR LCA Relocation brackets (these things rock! no more squat, car feels much better overall, more solid) and no more rub. I guess that adjusted the angle just enough. I will still take it to another shop to get properly adjusted. I also have steeda sport springs and an auto.
1/23/08, 08:12 AM
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My spydershaft used to rub, so I always figured it was pinion angle adjustment needed, I guessed my installer did it wrong. So last week i installed BMR LCA Relocation brackets (these things rock! no more squat, car feels much better overall, more solid) and no more rub. I guess that adjusted the angle just enough. I will still take it to another shop to get properly adjusted. I also have steeda sport springs and an auto.
1/23/08, 08:19 AM
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1/23/08, 08:24 AM
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Well they can't be to far of considering the mounting holes for the LCA bolts are in the same place for every stang. The squat explanation makes more sense.
1/23/08, 08:27 AM
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3/11/08, 10:05 PM
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Just want to say thanks to TB for his write up.
I installed my driveshaft this weekend and with the help of the writw up install went without a hitch and no vibrations. Coast instructions very vauge at best. Thanks again
I installed my driveshaft this weekend and with the help of the writw up install went without a hitch and no vibrations. Coast instructions very vauge at best. Thanks again
4/15/08, 07:05 PM
#71
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i know this might be a little late but from an article in MM&FF about mods for the S197, they had to bang in that little hump, that is how they solved the problem with the coast DS
10/19/09, 11:47 AM
#72
Hey Bill:
Great write-up...
What is that factory hump+hole for? Any concerns if it's just flattened out with a mallet?
I'll probably be getting a 1-pc DS later this month. My car is lowered 1.5" in the rear via FRPP springs, so I'm expecting the same type of issue. I'll also take care to relocate that bracket.
Great write-up...
What is that factory hump+hole for? Any concerns if it's just flattened out with a mallet?
I'll probably be getting a 1-pc DS later this month. My car is lowered 1.5" in the rear via FRPP springs, so I'm expecting the same type of issue. I'll also take care to relocate that bracket.
I discovered a riding/rubbing condition between the driveshaft and a stamped steel hump within the tunnel.
Rubbing appears to be only superficial and no deep scratches or gouges exist at this time.
I do believe that this occurred when I carried 2 passengers in the rear seats (~170 lbs combined) a month ago. Until I resolve this issue, NO rear passengers!
As previously noted, I have the Steeda Ultralite lowering springs which lowered the vehicle approx. 1" at the rear.
As a precautionary measure, I relocated the e-brake cable bracket away from the center tunnel so there's no chance of the driveshaft to come in contact with the bolt head (on that bracket).
Relocation of this bracket can be accomplished without the removal of the driveshaft, although drilling the new hole can be quite challenging.
Stock location of e-brake cable support bracket
Rubbing appears to be only superficial and no deep scratches or gouges exist at this time.
I do believe that this occurred when I carried 2 passengers in the rear seats (~170 lbs combined) a month ago. Until I resolve this issue, NO rear passengers!
As previously noted, I have the Steeda Ultralite lowering springs which lowered the vehicle approx. 1" at the rear.
As a precautionary measure, I relocated the e-brake cable bracket away from the center tunnel so there's no chance of the driveshaft to come in contact with the bolt head (on that bracket).
Relocation of this bracket can be accomplished without the removal of the driveshaft, although drilling the new hole can be quite challenging.
Stock location of e-brake cable support bracket
10/19/09, 11:52 AM
#73
Thread Starter
What is that factory hump+hole for? Any concerns if it's just flattened out with a mallet?
I'll probably be getting a 1-pc DS later this month. My car is lowered 1.5" in the rear via FRPP springs, so I'm expecting the same type of issue. I'll also take care to relocate that bracket.
I'll probably be getting a 1-pc DS later this month. My car is lowered 1.5" in the rear via FRPP springs, so I'm expecting the same type of issue. I'll also take care to relocate that bracket.
10/19/09, 12:28 PM
#74
12/11/09, 08:49 PM
#75
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I discovered a riding/rubbing condition between the driveshaft and a stamped steel hump within the tunnel.
Rubbing appears to be only superficial and no deep scratches or gouges exist at this time.
I do believe that this occurred when I carried 2 passengers in the rear seats (~170 lbs combined) a month ago. Until I resolve this issue, NO rear passengers!
As previously noted, I have the Steeda Ultralite lowering springs which lowered the vehicle approx. 1" at the rear.
As a precautionary measure, I relocated the e-brake cable bracket away from the center tunnel so there's no chance of the driveshaft to come in contact with the bolt head (on that bracket).
Relocation of this bracket can be accomplished without the removal of the driveshaft, although drilling the new hole can be quite challenging.
Stock location of e-brake cable support bracket
Bolt removal
Metal band around the cable sheathing was crimped in place by the factory. Slightly open up the bracket with a flat blade screwdriver so the bracket can slip over the band. Can use pliers to close the opening gap if necessary.
Protective tape applied to cable sheathing to avoid any rub-thru condition. I used a metallic tape, but duct tape should work fine.
Mark and drill new hole.
Relocation complete
Rubbing appears to be only superficial and no deep scratches or gouges exist at this time.
I do believe that this occurred when I carried 2 passengers in the rear seats (~170 lbs combined) a month ago. Until I resolve this issue, NO rear passengers!
As previously noted, I have the Steeda Ultralite lowering springs which lowered the vehicle approx. 1" at the rear.
As a precautionary measure, I relocated the e-brake cable bracket away from the center tunnel so there's no chance of the driveshaft to come in contact with the bolt head (on that bracket).
Relocation of this bracket can be accomplished without the removal of the driveshaft, although drilling the new hole can be quite challenging.
Stock location of e-brake cable support bracket
Bolt removal
Metal band around the cable sheathing was crimped in place by the factory. Slightly open up the bracket with a flat blade screwdriver so the bracket can slip over the band. Can use pliers to close the opening gap if necessary.
Protective tape applied to cable sheathing to avoid any rub-thru condition. I used a metallic tape, but duct tape should work fine.
Mark and drill new hole.
Relocation complete
Bill...
I guess I am looking at the picture of the bump wrong.... I don't see how the bump is rubbing the shaft?? It looks like the bump is aiming down....
Do you have any pics of the bump after it is flattened out??
BTW.... Terrific write ups. Unbelievable amount of detail in instruction & pics.
THANX
12/14/09, 07:50 AM
#76
Thread Starter
I don't have any pics of the bump as it is now. It only has to be flattened in just a little.
Best time to do this is when the driveshaft is out of the car.
12/16/09, 07:18 AM
#77
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I discovered a riding/rubbing condition between the driveshaft and a stamped steel hump within the tunnel.
Rubbing appears to be only superficial and no deep scratches or gouges exist at this time.
I do believe that this occurred when I carried 2 passengers in the rear seats (~170 lbs combined) a month ago. Until I resolve this issue, NO rear passengers!
As previously noted, I have the Steeda Ultralite lowering springs which lowered the vehicle approx. 1" at the rear.
As a precautionary measure, I relocated the e-brake cable bracket away from the center tunnel so there's no chance of the driveshaft to come in contact with the bolt head (on that bracket).
Relocation of this bracket can be accomplished without the removal of the driveshaft, although drilling the new hole can be quite challenging.
Stock location of e-brake cable support bracket
Bolt removal
Metal band around the cable sheathing was crimped in place by the factory. Slightly open up the bracket with a flat blade screwdriver so the bracket can slip over the band. Can use pliers to close the opening gap if necessary.
Protective tape applied to cable sheathing to avoid any rub-thru condition. I used a metallic tape, but duct tape should work fine.
Mark and drill new hole.
Relocation complete
Rubbing appears to be only superficial and no deep scratches or gouges exist at this time.
I do believe that this occurred when I carried 2 passengers in the rear seats (~170 lbs combined) a month ago. Until I resolve this issue, NO rear passengers!
As previously noted, I have the Steeda Ultralite lowering springs which lowered the vehicle approx. 1" at the rear.
As a precautionary measure, I relocated the e-brake cable bracket away from the center tunnel so there's no chance of the driveshaft to come in contact with the bolt head (on that bracket).
Relocation of this bracket can be accomplished without the removal of the driveshaft, although drilling the new hole can be quite challenging.
Stock location of e-brake cable support bracket
Bolt removal
Metal band around the cable sheathing was crimped in place by the factory. Slightly open up the bracket with a flat blade screwdriver so the bracket can slip over the band. Can use pliers to close the opening gap if necessary.
Protective tape applied to cable sheathing to avoid any rub-thru condition. I used a metallic tape, but duct tape should work fine.
Mark and drill new hole.
Relocation complete
12/18/09, 04:41 PM
#78
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Thanks Bill. I got the visual right now... 
I am really torn on whether to spend the $150 or so extra for the DynaTech 3.5" shaft or just go with the Coast???
The DynaTech requires a pinion shaft swap correct?????
Thanks
I am really torn on whether to spend the $150 or so extra for the DynaTech 3.5" shaft or just go with the Coast???
The DynaTech requires a pinion shaft swap correct?????
Thanks
12/18/09, 04:52 PM
#79
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I have had the Coast for a few years now and have no complaints...its been in and out a few times and never any noticable vibes...I did have the exact same rubbing issues as TB until i beat that bump out and added a adjustable 3rd link...the extra money for the 3.5 may be worth it if you are not willing to use a BFH on the tunnel and/or adjust the pinion angle...