Been busy last 3 nights, but long list of mods is done
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: September 24, 2004
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 901
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Okay, after many weeks and a long trip down to Arizona from Canada to pick up my parts and buy a boat, I have returned home and tonight finished installing all my mods. Here is a list.
Steeda Tri-ax shifter
BMR LCAs
BMR adjustable panhard rod
Eiback pro series springs
off road H-pipe
Flowmaster axle backs
First, installation on all parts was a breeze. The only hard part was puting in the shifter without taking the driveshaft off. I know others on here have done it, but I was just about to the point where I was about to say it is not possible. I persaveered and I was able to do it.
Exhaust - the Flowmasters are awesome in my books. I only started it up in the garage and reved it up to get the idea of the sound and I was impressed. I didn't drive it until I installed the H-pipe and that is where I am not 100% happy. There is a lot of trumpeting and it is very raspy two different times when excellerating. Not to mention it is pretty bloody loud. I am on the fence as to whether or not I will put the cats back on. There is a noticeable HP increase and that alone will probably make me keep the H-pipe in the long run. I did get a CEL after 2 days.
BMR LCA's - Nice parts, but I think the grease nipples are no good because when you pump them up, the grease comes back out. The little check ball in the end doesn't seem to work. I will get some good quality stainless ones from my work, not a big deal. The wheel hop is about 80% cured. I will look into getting the UCA to hopefully cure it 100%.
Adjustable panhard rod - very easy to install. Same problem with the grease nipples and the one on the drivers side is not accesable once installed. There is a bracket in the way.
Steeda shifter - Nice high quality part. Installation was a PITA without removing the driveshaft, but I am glad I went this way. The shifting is excellent, but it seems the factory shift **** sits a little higher than stock, even when using the lower bolt locations. (I liked the factory low postition)
Eibach Pro Series springs - Easy to install. I just put them in tonight and took the car out for a quick test run. The car stays nice and flat in a hard corner and it is still a nice ride on a normal road. I doesn't bruise your kidneys when you hit a bump.
With the LCAs, panhard rod and the springs, the rear of the car seems rock solid. I can't wait to get to the track to take on the slalom in the next autocross. There is a huge improvement over an already good handling car.
As for the plastic model in the picture....that will come later.
Feel free to ask any questions or comment. Thanks for reading this long post.
Steeda Tri-ax shifter
BMR LCAs
BMR adjustable panhard rod
Eiback pro series springs
off road H-pipe
Flowmaster axle backs
First, installation on all parts was a breeze. The only hard part was puting in the shifter without taking the driveshaft off. I know others on here have done it, but I was just about to the point where I was about to say it is not possible. I persaveered and I was able to do it.
Exhaust - the Flowmasters are awesome in my books. I only started it up in the garage and reved it up to get the idea of the sound and I was impressed. I didn't drive it until I installed the H-pipe and that is where I am not 100% happy. There is a lot of trumpeting and it is very raspy two different times when excellerating. Not to mention it is pretty bloody loud. I am on the fence as to whether or not I will put the cats back on. There is a noticeable HP increase and that alone will probably make me keep the H-pipe in the long run. I did get a CEL after 2 days.
BMR LCA's - Nice parts, but I think the grease nipples are no good because when you pump them up, the grease comes back out. The little check ball in the end doesn't seem to work. I will get some good quality stainless ones from my work, not a big deal. The wheel hop is about 80% cured. I will look into getting the UCA to hopefully cure it 100%.
Adjustable panhard rod - very easy to install. Same problem with the grease nipples and the one on the drivers side is not accesable once installed. There is a bracket in the way.
Steeda shifter - Nice high quality part. Installation was a PITA without removing the driveshaft, but I am glad I went this way. The shifting is excellent, but it seems the factory shift **** sits a little higher than stock, even when using the lower bolt locations. (I liked the factory low postition)
Eibach Pro Series springs - Easy to install. I just put them in tonight and took the car out for a quick test run. The car stays nice and flat in a hard corner and it is still a nice ride on a normal road. I doesn't bruise your kidneys when you hit a bump.
With the LCAs, panhard rod and the springs, the rear of the car seems rock solid. I can't wait to get to the track to take on the slalom in the next autocross. There is a huge improvement over an already good handling car.
As for the plastic model in the picture....that will come later.
Feel free to ask any questions or comment. Thanks for reading this long post.
#2
One, that's an X-pipe, not an H-pipe.. H-pipes are deeper, X's are raspier/louder. And two, you have it facing the wrong way on the floor. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrinjester.gif[/img]
#5
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: September 24, 2004
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 901
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Thanks, yes you need a spring compressor. I don't think you could do it without one. Where I live you can go to Canadian Tire (automotive/harware store) and they lend you the tool for a max of 3 days for free.
#6
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: September 24, 2004
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 901
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Thanks, yes you need a spring compressor. I don't think you could do it without one. Where I live you can go to Canadian Tire (automotive/harware store) and they lend you the tool for a max of 3 days for free.
#7
Good for you! I think you should get the O/R H instead of the X and you will get rid of that raspy sound. It will sound deep and hollow!
I can't wait to get some suspension mods! BMR all the way!
I can't wait to get some suspension mods! BMR all the way!
#11
The problem with you panhard rod and LCRs is not the fitting. There is no gap between the bushings for the grease to go plus on some of them the hole for the grease fitting was not in the center where the bushings meet. I had to remove about .015 off the inside end of one of the bushings so there would be a gap between them. Install a 90 degree fitting in the drivers side of the panhard and you can grease it. I thought everyone was aware of these problems. Guess not! You would think by now BMR would have caught and corrected this. They sent me a new set of bushings that were also too long.
#12
I noticed the greasing issue also. I have tried to grease them with the suspension not loaded....it helps. Also on the LCA install, I did plenty of grease before hand on the sides of the bushings.
#13
since you lowered the car you now need the lca relocation brackets. the bolt ons are preety to install. i have the the weld ons with bmr ph bar, brace, pro kit, and bmr adj lca's and i have no wheel hop. reloc brackets are the way to go. and yes you do need to change to an off road h and trash the x. i have the magnaflow x with cats and flows, and the sound is great but a tad raspy. i will be going to the pypes off road h soon.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
robjh22
Suspension, Brakes, and Tire Tech
4
9/8/15 12:31 PM
tj@steeda
2015 - 2023 MUSTANG
0
9/8/15 10:45 AM