Aluminator Vs. Terminator Vs. Anything
don't read about too many failures on 03/04 Cobra longblocks
As far as budgets go: If you are going for high hp numbers, low ETs and all that....You really need two budgets....1 for the modding and 1 to fix/replace all the stuff that is going to let go, sooner or later.
We are on our 3rd forced induction system, Procharger P1SC, then 67mm, now 76mm. Have gone from GT500 pumps + BAPs, to Fore triple pumps + megadriver, and now fuel cell + return-style sys....from the stock 5 speed manual to 4r70w 3 speed, and now 2 speed powerglide...from trutrac to spool. Any way you slice it, 12K is a lot of money but will only get you so far. You can probably at least double (maybe triple) that or more for bigger builds. I have a special arrangement with my tuners/builders that store the vehicle and trailer, and for dynotuning, mechanical, body work services.
Last edited by forensicsteve; Dec 25, 2009 at 08:21 AM.
We have a 5.0L stroker, cast iron 2004 cobra block. We blew headgaskets and twisted pistons trying 28 lbs of boost, but everything else held together. Prior to that had a some fuel and oil pump failures that weakened the motor a lot.
As far as budgets go: If you are going for high hp numbers, low ETs and all that....You really need two budgets....1 for the modding and 1 to fix/replace all the stuff that is going to let go, sooner or later.
We are on our 3rd forced induction system, Procharger P1SC, then 67mm, now 76mm. Have gone from GT500 pumps + BAPs, to Fore triple pumps + megadriver, and now fuel cell + return-style sys....from the stock 5 speed manual to 4r70w 3 speed, and now 2 speed powerglide...from trutrac to spool. Any way you slice it, 12K is a lot of money but will only get you so far. You can probably at least double (maybe triple) that or more for bigger builds. I have a special arrangement with my tuners/builders that store the vehicle and trailer, and for dynotuning, mechanical, body work services.
As far as budgets go: If you are going for high hp numbers, low ETs and all that....You really need two budgets....1 for the modding and 1 to fix/replace all the stuff that is going to let go, sooner or later.
We are on our 3rd forced induction system, Procharger P1SC, then 67mm, now 76mm. Have gone from GT500 pumps + BAPs, to Fore triple pumps + megadriver, and now fuel cell + return-style sys....from the stock 5 speed manual to 4r70w 3 speed, and now 2 speed powerglide...from trutrac to spool. Any way you slice it, 12K is a lot of money but will only get you so far. You can probably at least double (maybe triple) that or more for bigger builds. I have a special arrangement with my tuners/builders that store the vehicle and trailer, and for dynotuning, mechanical, body work services.
Last edited by classix_stang289; Dec 25, 2009 at 10:13 AM.
Your original post stated now i want to make it into a high hp beast.
What makes it difficult to chose, is that there are so many choices for FI and builds. Anyway you go from mild to wild, it will be exciting and fun. Take your time and develop a plan....and leave a little room for growth.
What makes it difficult to chose, is that there are so many choices for FI and builds. Anyway you go from mild to wild, it will be exciting and fun. Take your time and develop a plan....and leave a little room for growth.
Your original post stated now i want to make it into a high hp beast.
What makes it difficult to chose, is that there are so many choices for FI and builds. Anyway you go from mild to wild, it will be exciting and fun. Take your time and develop a plan....and leave a little room for growth.
What makes it difficult to chose, is that there are so many choices for FI and builds. Anyway you go from mild to wild, it will be exciting and fun. Take your time and develop a plan....and leave a little room for growth.
i originally said 550-650rwhp range, if i have to lower it to 450-500rwhp range than thats cool. thats enough fun excitement for awhile. do you think i can push the stock internals to around the 450ish rwhp range? if so i'll go low boost and call it a day for now. till i develop a plan.
Last edited by classix_stang289; Dec 25, 2009 at 01:37 PM.
You really just have to choose from these ranges:
1. Sub 500rwhp
2. 500-750rwhp
3. 750-950rwhp
4. 1000+rwhp, all bets are off
I think you're on the perfect track with the 450-500 to start. Get yourself a blower (which you seem to prefer over a turbo) that you can grow into when you want to crank it up to 600-650. Run that blower on low boost for now on the stocker and call it a day. Your budget is very suitable for that goal.
1. Sub 500rwhp
2. 500-750rwhp
3. 750-950rwhp
4. 1000+rwhp, all bets are off
I think you're on the perfect track with the 450-500 to start. Get yourself a blower (which you seem to prefer over a turbo) that you can grow into when you want to crank it up to 600-650. Run that blower on low boost for now on the stocker and call it a day. Your budget is very suitable for that goal.
450-500 rwhp is huge power for any street car. Not sure anymore is useable on street legal tires on a typical road surface. I know some run DRs, but the stickier the tire, the less efficient at evacuating water, and shorter life span.
My tuner on a heavily loaded mustang dyno is comfortable in the 435 rear wheel range for an all stock motor. His 435 might be 500 rw on a dynojet....so dyno numbers can be very deceptive.
Going low boost and calling it a day, is in itself a sensible plan. Faster does not mean better.
Interesting ranges Bullitt. Each one does represent a different build in terms of boost level, fuel system upgrades, transmission, traction challenges, and such.
My tuner on a heavily loaded mustang dyno is comfortable in the 435 rear wheel range for an all stock motor. His 435 might be 500 rw on a dynojet....so dyno numbers can be very deceptive.
Going low boost and calling it a day, is in itself a sensible plan. Faster does not mean better.
Interesting ranges Bullitt. Each one does represent a different build in terms of boost level, fuel system upgrades, transmission, traction challenges, and such.
Last edited by forensicsteve; Dec 25, 2009 at 02:42 PM.
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!


Joined: September 23, 2008
Posts: 995
Likes: 0
From: Memphis
I've had the conversation in other threads with Steve on this same topic. Mainly the fact that I can get in and turn my key and drive my car every day, as I do.
You have to have a goal in mind and if it's keeping it on the street the power levels you would be looking at are more than fine for a stock short block. If something breaks in a few years, replace it, and move on without dumping large sums of money. People can argue that they have DD cars over the 500 rwhp range but I've been there and it wasn't a fun car to me. Once you break that horsepower range as well your looking at a major overhaul to support it, including things like a cage to be able to safely use it. What style of course depends on the level, then it's a transmission, beefing up the rear end, an expensive fuel system, and fixing all the little things that you really never planned on which always seems to happen. This also has to factor in down time, such as when something breaks how long will it be before you can afford to fix it? How much time are you going to spend with a car sitting at your shop waiting on parts, etc...
Point being, a 450 hp street car is easy enough yet extremely enjoyable. The curse of these internet forums is it makes you feel every car in the neighborhood has that when in real life it couldn't be further from the truth.
You have to have a goal in mind and if it's keeping it on the street the power levels you would be looking at are more than fine for a stock short block. If something breaks in a few years, replace it, and move on without dumping large sums of money. People can argue that they have DD cars over the 500 rwhp range but I've been there and it wasn't a fun car to me. Once you break that horsepower range as well your looking at a major overhaul to support it, including things like a cage to be able to safely use it. What style of course depends on the level, then it's a transmission, beefing up the rear end, an expensive fuel system, and fixing all the little things that you really never planned on which always seems to happen. This also has to factor in down time, such as when something breaks how long will it be before you can afford to fix it? How much time are you going to spend with a car sitting at your shop waiting on parts, etc...
Point being, a 450 hp street car is easy enough yet extremely enjoyable. The curse of these internet forums is it makes you feel every car in the neighborhood has that when in real life it couldn't be further from the truth.
Last edited by EagleStroker; Dec 25, 2009 at 06:59 PM.
Eh, there's plenty of 1000+rwhp cars running around on the streets these days. And no, they aren't built to run from a dig but I've seen guys with low 8 second cars doing 1/8th mile runs on the street with slicks. I honestly wouldn't hesitate to say you could build plenty of ~700rwhp street cars and be completely comfortable driving it every day, rain or shine.
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