classix_stang289

In the spring/summer months im looking into a doing an engine build on my 05. Let me lay out 3 options that have been running through my mind. Just to let you know, nothing is set in stone yet. I eventually would love to run higher boost then what the stock bottom end can handle.

Option 1- Aluminator block/stock heads/supercharger of choice/supporting mods.

Option 2- Terminator longblock/ supercharger of choice/computer/t56 trans/supporting mods.

Option 3- 5.4L 3V build of some sort?


I will be upgrading suspension as well, so what do you guys think would be a better build? what makes sense? this car is already a weekend driver, but now i want to make it into a high hp beast but still drive it on the street. Any other opinions would be great.

70MACH1OWNER

Hey John,
I'll just throw out a third option that I would consider if I was considering this.

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...3A+Shortblocks

A livernois 298 CI shortblock and a set of their CNC ported heads is what I would do. I truely believe they use better components and hold better tolerances than the Ford motors. Just my opinion. But if you price it out between the two of them I think you will be surprised. Than you can just sell you stocker to some guy that went to far with the boost or nitrous to offset the cost.

tom281

Option 2.

Unless you buy an Aluminator longblock and strap on a Whipple....... that would be ultimate IMO.

70MACH1OWNER

Or better yet buy the Livernois shortblock and heads and strap on a Whipple!!!!

tom281

I don't know Scottie...... I don't read about too many failures on 03/04 Cobra longblocks and/or Aluminator setups either. Not to say that the Livernois setup isn't solid too, but the Terminator and Aluminator setups are more than proven in my opinion. Either way though, you're right they all would be good combos.

classix_stang289

the only issue i see is electrical. i understand that upgrading to a t56 trans and needing a custom driveshaft to fit the solid rear and getting a computer but the thing that stops me dead in my tracks would be wiring in a new harness for the vehicle. i do want to make sure everything functions properly. Does anybody know of any swaps that actually have been performed?
Wouldnt the aluminator route be a more cost effective route and still acheive the big amount of power? whatever i do, it definitly wont be a hack job. I will only do this if it can be done properly.

colbymh

Or to someone who couldn't find a valve seal keeper and rocketed the motor upon startup...KNOCKING ON WOOD AS I TYPE THIS....

70MACH1OWNER

Keep the Faith Colby!!! I'm crossing my fingers for you!!!

classix_stang289

i was thinking about getting the aluminator shortblock and keeping the stock heads and maybe a kenne bell mammoth? wouldnt that be better, plus the prices on the whipple went up and is around the price range of the kenne bell? i love the supercharger whine so whichever one is louder thats a plus, and im dead set on a twin screw. maybe just maybe livernois heads with the aluminator block.

or does anyone have any comparisons on which is the best twin screw available for our vehicles.

70MACH1OWNER

We agree completely. The **** in them Termi's are quite stout. But I believe the Livernois 3V shortblock is every bit as good but their ported oversize valve heads I think will make more power for about the same price. Plus I would stay with the 3 valve engine and stuff so I wouldn't have to change wiring harnesses and ECU's. Going to a 4V engine in a car that is electronically setup for a 3V engine just creates additional grief for me.

classix_stang289

agree, this is why i rather stay with 3V. as far as power and reliability which is a better twin screw? plus like i mentioned in my last post the louder the better.

EagleStroker

Before I start typing, what is a factual horsepower/et goal and how much are you willing to spend/do yourself? I'm gauging by the fact that you are leaning towards stock heads you are on a budget of some sort so I would say that needs to be stated first and foremost

classix_stang289

yes im trying to keep a budget of 12grand(trying)

I want to be in the 550-650rwhp range(leaving room for more for later on). i wont be doing the build, plus i would need it all tuned up when finished and i doubt i will be able to travel to tillman speed untuned when im ready. the reason for sticking with the stock heads is due to the fact of hearing alot about these heads being able to handle a great deal, but if i do change them then it wont be the end of the world.


I dont have an Et Goal as of yet, so with all this being said could money be saved and just swap out to forged internals(instead of whole new shortblock), heads/cams, supercharger? how do you all think i should go about this? keep in mind i wont be doing this till probably the summer/fall months in 2010.

EagleStroker

There are a few different ways to achieve the same but as I stated recently that is at the threshold where a lot of things come into consideration. Is it a stick or an auto?

At that power level you have to decide whether you are going to be happy with it now, it will save you money long term. If you will not, you are looking at around $2k for a nice fuel system which would also be a return system. I'm not sure if you had thought about this yet.

As far as saving money by having a short block built, it solely depends on if you trust the shop your having build it. I saved some, not enough to brag about though.

I would say you have a few good options to think about, but over all I would stick with the 3v head. Keep in mind some tuners have been able to successfully tune a 4v head on a 3v ECU BUT your talking about a major investment in tuning costs and an extremely competent tuner. "Pretty Good" just doesn't cut it at that point.

If you want the cubes and don't mind the weight build a 5.4 3v, if you want to keep it simple and on the less expensive side go with the 4.6 3v. If you want both go with an aluminum Big Bore block for the 4.6, but your looking at a few hundred more for custom pistons to fit it on top of the purchase price of a new block.

If your not planning on spinning a lot of RPM your fine with stock heads at that power level, and cams aren't really a necessity. There are quite a few 9 and 10 second cars with stock cams.

The biggest problem is you won't be doing much yourself. Unfortunately on a build of that scale your money won't go as far as you think it will! Trust me on that one.

70MACH1OWNER

Amen...you can figure on an average of $60/hr for labor in most parts of the country. If you are not capable of doing the work yourself that's why I promote a preassembled short or long block. You should plan on spending about 30% more than you would anticipate because that is the way most of my projects have always turned out.

classix_stang289

vehicle is a stick

basically wait till i get my goals set...

on another note, what can this engine handle safely with proper tuning? cause i was thinking to just scrap my projects im planning for now and just go FI with a safe boost level and tune and give myself time to think what i want and not rush into things.

Bullitt995

Just going to tell you now, that isn't going to happen. Maybe if you had the blower already and you did all your own labor. Maybe.

classix_stang289

im just going to wait and reconsider what i want to do so it dont hurt me in the end.
i'll figure something out.

Bullitt995

Good move.

EagleStroker

Couldn't of put it better myself. Best thing you can do is call your shop of choice and talk to them, they know what it costs.