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With your new, upgraded 13.8" rear rotors, your rear over-heating issue will be a thing of the past.

 

Thanks Pete, that's what I was hoping for!

 

And I just got my 4 point harness today. I need to get it on before late May.

 

I am starting to look at moving up from performance street pads to real track pads. I want to go with something that is non corrosive like the Carbotech or Gloc compounds. I realize they are basically the same. Has anyone tried the R10 front R8 rear combo or the 12's and 10's?

 

Funny you should ask

R10/R8 is what I ran up until last season (ran that combo 2014-2017) Good combo if you don't go more than 8/10 or 9/10. I recently upgraded to R12 and this season going to R10 on the rear too. I've been pushing harder and harder at my usual tracks, so I have outgrown the previous combo so to speak, but it took 3 years.

If you have cooling on the front the R10s will work for you even better. You won't be disappointed with the combo. My only complaints were noise on the street (which is why I had to swap fronts) and shaking of the wheel at the track due to deposits (caused by overheating) as well as 2 instances of fade (also caused by overheating and driver error).

R10s are fade resistant to 1450F. R12s are good to 2000. So I'm just error proofing myself

 

Thanks 5.Monster
I have been running Hawk HPS on my car. They were what I had for the street before starting my track habit. I was outgrowing them at the end of last season and want to try real track pads this year. I have cooling ducts on the front and 13.8" rotors on the rear with dust shields removed, which I am sure helped. I am looking at the GLoc's since they are non corrosive. My stock wheels have taken a beating from the Hawk brake dust. The finish is partially eaten off. I was thinking the 10/8 set up would be good for awhile, but Jon at Vorshlag said that most people gravitate toward the 12/10 combo on these cars. I am just not sure I need to make that big of a jump coming from street pads.

 

Hey EF1, I think the 10/8 combo will already be big step up from HPS. You should get 4-5 track days out of them, and you can always step up a bit more next time.

It all depends on how you drive though. If you're pushing deep in the brake zones already and trail brake it may be a good idea to go directly to 12/10. If you do majority of your braking in the straight line and then turn in mostly off brake 10/8 will serve you well for a while.

What tracks do you visit most often? There are a few hard brake zones at Sebring, but they are followed by straights or sweepers so helps keep brake temps down.

 

I have the Carbotech 10/8 combo which I believe is the same as GLock 10/8 since Glock stole the formula from Carbotech, LOL ;-)

They seem to work fine for me; at my intermediate level and with my tires. I haven't experienced any significant fade and they can easily overpower the tires and trigger ABS so I'm not sure how they could get much better than that.

I have been swapping out the fronts for Carbotech street pads between track events, and leaving the 8's in the back. They do squeal a bit, but nowhere near as bad as the 10's did.

About the brake dust -- I have noticed that the dust from the 8's is quite hard to remove from the wheels, if you don't keep after it. Unfortunately I put the car away dirty in the fall, and now I have some spots where the brake dust won't come off with normal cleaning procedures; looks like I need some harsher cleaner. I don't know yet if there is any corrosion underneath. So just wanted to mention that you should keep after it, especially if you plan to leave the track pads on the car.

 

Thanks for the additional info. I have been to Sebring and Carolina Motorsports Park. I love Sebring, but it is a long trip for me to get there. I am not sure if i am can make to down there this year with my schedule. I have 4 days at CMP scheduled and am looking at going to the National Corvette Museum Track and Road Atlanta as well this year since they are both closer to me.

I am going about as deep into the brake zone as I can with my HPS pads. I know that I am going to have to make some adjustments with my tire/wheel change and a brake change. I am leaning toward the 10/8 combo. Like you said, I can always step up next time. I like the idea of leaving the 8's on the back and only changing out the fronts for the street.

 

You are running the same size tires that I am, so this is helpful. I like stuck with my HPS pads this long to avoid having to change them out between events. If the 10/8 combo is capable of overpowering the tires they should be plenty for my current abilities. The Gloc brake compound is supposed to be noncorrosive unlike the Hawk pads. I don't mind cleaning off the brake dust, but I don't want it getting wet and eating the paint off my wheels like the Hawk pads have done.

 

I always used carbotech x8 on the rears and hawk dtc-60s then moved up to dtc-70 for the fronts. By the dtc-70s I had switched to the slotted rotors. Brake ducts helped but I didn't have actual temp data to back it up. Getting aggressive and your driving/braking style really make a difference so tailor your pads setup accordingly (late/early brake, trailer brake, brake cooling mods, titanium backing plates, and actual brake temps to help decide on brake pad optimal temp selection) Happy to see us exploring :-)

 

I did take brake temps at the track, but I didn't take good notes and don't remember what I was getting. I remember the front temps did drop quite a bit when I added the cooling ducts and when I went to the larger rear rotors the rear temps came down about 30 degrees, but they were still hotter than the fronts. I have the titanium shims on the front, but don't remember what kind of difference they made to temps. I do brake as late as I can, but try not to trail brake. I am looking for a higher torque pad that is less prone to fade than the Hawk HPS that I have been running that won't eat the finish off of my wheels.

 

I settled on the G-Loc R10 for the front with the R8's on the rear. Now just waiting for them to arrive so I can get them installed before my first track outing on May 19th.

 

 

I'd suggest that you do the bedding on the street before the first track session if at all possible.

You need a stretch of road where there is little or no traffic, where you can safely accelerate up to about 50 or 60 then brake fairly hard down to about 5 MPH without coming to a complete stop, over and over until you smell the brakes getting hot and/or you feel some fade. That will probably take about 10? or so near stops; so you don't want traffic coming up fast behind you. Then you want room to drive for a while without coming to a complete stop to cool them off pretty well, before you come to a complete stop. Then let them cool completely, like a couple hours or overnight, and then repeat.

 

^ This

This is why I just take it easi-ish on the first session, since I'm guaranteed to fade/smoke the pads for sure over 15min (20 - warm up/cool down laps). Then let the car sit for 1h and it works well.

 

Brake upgrade is now on. The rears don't look so small anymore. Hoping I have no brake issues this season. Or any other problems for that matter.

 

You are going to like the bigger brakes on the rear. It does make a noticeable difference in break temps.

 

Good, I've had enough brake issues for a few seasons.