TacoBill

I'm ready to Zaino my spoiler now, but I feel like holding off since the stripes are on the horizon.

If mine was a daily, it probably would have around 3k on it now.

As it stands now, I'm averaging a whoping 2.7 miles per day!

89Trooper

Not much of a forward rake (rear gap is about 3/4" more than the front and now the rear gap is maybe 1/4" or so more than the front).

Mine is closer to level now since from the factory there is a forward rake. Mike's is a little lower in the rear because we cut the top coil of the rear springs.

Mike's is higher overall in the front and rear than mine, but both are pretty level. (That's the difference I meant... that his really looks like a 4x4 now.)

TacoBill

I like the 'ever so slight' forward rake it has now.

Can you picture it with stripes & scoops?

89Trooper

I meant to say that the rear gap is 3/4" more in the back from the factory.

My rear end may sit lower now than yours, Bill, because of the extra weight of the convertible (170 lbs). Remember, I had a higher spring rate from the factory, but now we have the same spring rates.

Would look great with stripes... but I know it's a big step.

OKCMustangGT

Diet and exercise will take care of that Tom.
Would look awesome with stripes. I hope I get in contact with Francis pretty soon. Really wanting to get those stripes on mine.

TacoBill

I'm curious what the graphic guys charge in OK for the stripes. That will determine the number of degrees I have to bend over.

OKCMustangGT

Ask Tom, I bet he will let you borrow his Angle Gauge

89Trooper

Well, what do you think? Does my rear-end sit lower (than Bill's)?

Attachment 921 Attachment 922

OKCMustangGT

I would need a pic with you two side-by-side to determine that.
Looks good Tom. I might consider lowering mine, but these roads in Oklahoma SUCK !!!!!. I don't want to get beat to death. Where did you guys buy your Steedas at? and at what cost ?

89Trooper

I don't think either one of us are willing to drive that far.

Thanks! And the ride quality is really good! Here's my scale with a stock '06 GT as the best (10) and my '89 with 600 lb-in springs as the worst (1) for ride quality.

1 - My '89 lowered with Ford Racing springs (600 rate)
2 -
3 -
4 -
5 -
6 - My '03 GT lowered with Eibach Pro's
7 -
8 - '06 GT lowered with Steeda Ultra Lites
9 - '03 GT factory
10 - '06 GT factory

We both got them directly from Steeda. They are still on sale for $209.95. I got them in 2 days, but had to pay tax since they are in FL.

TacoBill

Well, I'm only 5' 5" with a 30" inseam. So I'd say that I got the drop on him.

They can't be that bad, otherwise you would've gotten a Caddy, Buick, or Olds.

I think my Steeda's ran $240ish delivered.

TacoBill

Side by side shot, almost to scale.

89Trooper

Unless you are extremely lucky, all Mustangs are un-even from the factory. It could be 1/16" lower on the driver's side, or it could be as much as 3/8". I solved this problem in all my Fox-body Mustangs, but now since we are dealing with a modified Lincoln chassis, everything has changed.

In my ongoing obsession to level my car from left to right, I removed the passenger side front sway bar link:



And I loosened the top rear sway bar link bolts on each side:



I slowly drove around the block to give things a chance to move where they wanted to without having a preload.

REAR SWAY BAR LINKS - As you can see in the pic, the bottom is fixed to the sway bar with a bushing. However, the top bolt has slop. So, if one side is tightened down with the bolt toward the top of the hole and the other side with the bolt toward the bottom of the hole, the body could lean slightly to one side.

FRONT SWAY BAR LINKS - With either link out, the sway bar is rendered useless and the car is under no preload. The arrow shows how the stud can pivot... but once the nut is tight, the stud is at a right angle with the bar. When installing the link, the studs slide right in... but when they are tightened down, it will twist the sway bar or compress the spring a little bit and cause the body to lean to one side.

Before doing this, neither the front of my car or the rear was level. Now, from the bottom of the rim to the fenderwell is dead even in the rear and the front is closer than it has ever been (passenger side still high a bit).

I know how to solve this, but I haven't decided which way to go.

FREE WAY - Washers or shims between the body and strut assembly on the low side. Cheap, but difficult to change out if needed.

EXPENSIVE WAY - Adjustable front sway bar links. These will get rid of the pre-load on the links to help level the car out. Expensive (about $175), but unlimited and easy adjustability if the car settles over time.

TacoBill

So when are you going to order the 'adjustable front sway bar links'?
It's just a matter of time...

OKCMustangGT

You are a bad influence Bill.

TacoBill

I know Tom. He's getting ready to order these.

It cannot be stopped.

For the rest of us, we'll hang back and wait until he confirms the purchase.

89Trooper

He does know me!

I probably will order them because I REALLY can't stand the car un-level.

TacoBill

Tom- Heard on the news that hurricane season is quickly approaching. Keep her bunkered down and out of harms way!

TacoBill

Everyone must be ... starting to hear crickets.

KdF

<BANG!!>

Saw a big one..................