TacoBill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(89Trooper @ May 3, 2006, 8:03 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Still look OK with the .0125" wider gap around the cap?
[/b][/quote]
OMG! That gap is too big!! - Ha! just kidding. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrinjester.gif[/img]

It's a keeper, Tom. Looks killer on the BB. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

OKCMustangGT

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TacoBill @ May 3, 2006, 10:24 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
It's a keeper, Tom. Looks killer on the BB. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img][/b][/quote]
+1 I like the Pony center gap better.

The Earl's show to be a complete set, all four lines. I still got $20 Summit bucks from the Flowmasters so my cost is only $87 [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]

TacoBill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OKCMustangGT @ May 3, 2006, 8:28 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
The Earl's show to be a complete set, all four lines. I still got $20 Summit bucks from the Flowmasters so my cost is only $87 [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
If you're going to take apart your calipers for powdercoating, you may as well swap out your lines to SS.

Since you're going that far, thinking about replacing the OEM brake fluid with ATE Super Blue?

89Trooper

I was going to say that, too. If I change over to SS lines, I'll drain the fluid and change to some sort of synthetic brake fluid. Every fluid in my '89 is synthetic now, except the coolant.

OKCMustangGT

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TacoBill @ May 3, 2006, 10:41 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
If you're going to take apart your calipers for powdercoating, you may as well swap out your lines to SS.

Since you're going that far, thinking about replacing the OEM brake fluid with ATE Super Blue?
[/b][/quote]
LOL Did you see my link to the Earl's SS Brake Lines @ Summit Racing ?
I guess I might as well do that at the same time huh? You have any experience with that brand Bill, Tom ?

TacoBill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(89Trooper @ May 3, 2006, 8:46 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Every fluid in my '89 is synthetic now, except the coolant.
[/b][/quote]
Tell me what kind of synthetic washer fluid you have, I want some too! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrinjester.gif[/img]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OKCMustangGT @ May 3, 2006, 8:52 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
You have any experience with that brand Bill, Tom ?
[/b][/quote]
Yes, I ran the Super Blue in my 944.

How were they? Worked great! But then I have nothing to compare to, bought the car with the Super Blue already in it.

OKCMustangGT

darn my future mods list is getting huge [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img]
Guess I should call and see how long, price for PC the calipers.
Another thought (more money) would be to buy a replacement set of OEM calipers to have PC, then only have to worry about changing them. No down time while they are getting PC'd. Anyone know what the price of a FORD Replacment calipers would be ?

89Trooper

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TacoBill @ May 3, 2006, 11:54 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>Tell me what kind of synthetic washer fluid you have, I want some too! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrinjester.gif[/img][/b][/quote]Forgot about that. It does have the rainex additive in it! That's probably man made.

TacoBill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OKCMustangGT @ May 3, 2006, 8:57 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Anyone know what the price of a FORD Replacment calipers would be ?
[/b][/quote]
If going that route, I'd look for GT 'Take-Off' parts.

Start calling Saleen, Steeda, Modular Depot, and wherever else you can think of.
Take-Off prices should be way better than 'over the counter' prices.

89Trooper

Undercoating before and after (again, the "white" in the after pic is the glare from the Florida sun).

[attachmentid=48236]

[attachmentid=48237]

All nice and thick rubberized black now.

The can was $5.99 at Auto Zone and I used the full can to cover both rear fenderwells. About 3 coats each.

While that's drying, I'll Zaino the rear rims!

TacoBill

Tom- Where's the new wheel pics?

89Trooper

Had to leave at 4pm to go buy a bed, remember?

Got a King Sleep Number set: mattress, foundation, pillows, remotes... $2800 [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img]

I got the rims on with 1 coat of Zaino on each. I'll have pictures along with measurements to the fenderwell tomorrow.

TacoBill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(89Trooper @ May 3, 2006, 8:03 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Had to leave at 4pm to go buy a bed, remember?

Got a King Sleep Number set: mattress, foundation, pillows, remotes... $2800 [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img]

I got the rims on with 1 coat of Zaino on each. I'll have pictures along with measurements to the fenderwell tomorrow.
[/b][/quote]
Okay, we'll cut you some slack... this time.

$2800 for bedding???

(That's a 50% down on a Saleen Supercharger!)

89Trooper

The King adjustable Sleep Numbers (where you can tilt it to watch TV) took the price to over $5000.

When we were leaving, another guy was coming in with his wife and we rolled eyes at each other behind their backs. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]

The bed is awesome as far as beds go. We both liked it better than the Tempur-Pedic bed (and the Sleep Numbers were cheaper).

By the way, my number is 35 (just like Lindsey Wagner).

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/offtopic.gif[/img]

So... the AutoVation pedal install is set for tomorrow...

OKCMustangGT

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(89Trooper @ May 3, 2006, 10:38 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
So... the AutoVation pedal install is set for tomorrow...[/b][/quote]
I wish you much luck here Tom. I was trying to get up under there to drill the top holes in the clutch and brake pedals and smashed my ribs on the door sill, hurt for two days [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img]
Remember if you have access to an angle drill, USE IT [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img] will make your job SO MUCH easier [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]

Quick question Bill, you ordered the zinc plated and then you added painted silver to match. What part do they paint silver the hub and edges? and wouldn't it be kind of a silver anyway being zinc plated ?
Guess we didn't get a group buy going Tom??? I know you were going to ask.

89Trooper

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OKCMustangGT @ May 4, 2006, 8:49 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>Remember if you have access to an angle drill, USE IT [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img] will make your job SO MUCH easier Guess we didn't get a group buy going Tom??? I know you were going to ask.[/b][/quote]I do have an angle drill. And, I never got a reply about a group buy.

TacoBill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OKCMustangGT @ May 4, 2006, 5:49 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Quick question Bill, you ordered the zinc plated and then you added painted silver to match. What part do they paint silver the hub and edges? and wouldn't it be kind of a silver anyway being zinc plated ?
[/b][/quote]
When ordered in base form, the rotor surface area is zinc plated, hub and outer ring are powdercoated in black (see pic).
For me, I prefer getting them painted silver instead of black. I was told that the silver finish will match the zinc (see pic- shows both red and silver).

Note: Only the base black comes PC, other colors (mine included) are applied with high temp paint.

Well, too bad we didn't get a response on the GB, but had we, it could have possibly added weeks due to a minimum order... and Tom and I can't handle that. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]

swwake

Hi y'all. I am so disappointed. Remember how I told you that I wanted to keep my hour meter in tact like a boat so I would always know how many hours are on my car? Well, last night I was so excited because it was set to roll over 100 hours before I got home from work.

First, the danged low fuel warning took over my screen (Bill, you wouldn't know about that [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img] ), telling me I had 50 miles to empty, and I was afraid to reset that, but it wouldn't let me see the hour meter anymore. So that was a disappointment, because I'm sure I rolled over 100 hours during that time.

This morning I stopped for gas. When I turned the car back on, it said on my hour meter 00:05:00, meaning 5 minutes. I guess it doesn't go over 99 hours [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]

Oh, and I'm about to roll over 4000 miles.

TacoBill

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(swwake @ May 4, 2006, 7:17 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
First, the danged low fuel warning took over my screen (Bill, you wouldn't know about that [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img] ), telling me I had 50 miles to empty...
Oh, and I'm about to roll over 4000 miles.
[/b][/quote]
Bummer your meter zero'd out, but if it makes you feel better, mine still reads 00:00:00. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]

And, my 'low fuel' message lit up last weekend, says I have 47 miles til empty. First time I saw that screen, sort of freaked me out.

4000 miles in 2 months??!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon24.gif[/img] You're heading into the 24k miles per year territory. If I did that, Chris would be getting a car with 120,000 miles! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img]

One this is for absolutely sure, you're getting your monies worth! And me... well I'm not so sure.

89Trooper

When the 50 miles until empty comes up, just hit RESET one time and it will go back so you can read all the other stuff.

I just turned 1800 miles in 62 days so that is a 10,600 per year rate.

New pedal technique:

Neither one of my aluminum pedals (brake and clutch) contoured the metal pedal exactly (high in the middle). So, I flattened out each aluminum pedal so when it laid on the metal pedal, it was a tad high where the top 2 screws go. Then, when the top screws are tightened down, it pulls on the aluminum just slightly and contours the metal pedal perfectly.