Ponies on The Run (Again)
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question... my boost/vac gauge is still not going into vac and rest only at 0 and up. Autometer sent me a new module for the boost/vac and it still doesn't read correct... They mentioned something about the guage may not be hooked up to a constant 12v so at ignition it sets vac when the car is on. Something to that effect?
Im going to the shop Thursday. Anyone else have any other ideas? Its annoying. Course nothing like what your going through Bill...
Im going to the shop Thursday. Anyone else have any other ideas? Its annoying. Course nothing like what your going through Bill...
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question... my boost/vac gauge is still not going into vac and rest only at 0 and up. Autometer sent me a new module for the boost/vac and it still doesn't read correct... They mentioned something about the guage may not be hooked up to a constant 12v so at ignition it sets vac when the car is on. Something to that effect?
Im going to the shop Thursday. Anyone else have any other ideas? Its annoying. Course nothing like what your going through Bill...
Im going to the shop Thursday. Anyone else have any other ideas? Its annoying. Course nothing like what your going through Bill...
It has 1 plastic line that you tee into manifold vacuum (like the line running to the fuel pressure regulator).
You'll still have 2 wires to hook up, though... for the light!
NTTAWWT
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Yeah its electric. The shop who installed my kit said it was better then mech gauges which were dated technology. I just think now he made more money off the electrical gauges then the cheaper mech gauges. What's really the difference? I'm clueless really...
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It's all a trade off.
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I dunno about that, I'd be tempted if I could do it all over again to go with a turbo set up.
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The pressure loss in the intercooler can happen in a supercharger system, too... unless you don't have an intercooler, of course!
It all depends on the system, too... one could have a .5 psi loss, or even a 2 psi loss.
The spring change was surprisingly easy! 6 bolts off the wastegate and change the spring... maybe even easier than a pulley swap! I have to get under the car, though...
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welcome back Tom. hows the hunt for a exhaust note ?, Ya know I ought to check my cabin filter
Hey Bill.... Figures 'bout RET. Just got off the phone w/Adam, he was outta town, and was trying to get you. Either way both are good guys. Was RET able to give you any type of initial indication of what the problem might be ??
Hey Bill.... Figures 'bout RET. Just got off the phone w/Adam, he was outta town, and was trying to get you. Either way both are good guys. Was RET able to give you any type of initial indication of what the problem might be ??
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question... my boost/vac gauge is still not going into vac and rest only at 0 and up. Autometer sent me a new module for the boost/vac and it still doesn't read correct... They mentioned something about the guage may not be hooked up to a constant 12v so at ignition it sets vac when the car is on. Something to that effect?
Im going to the shop Thursday. Anyone else have any other ideas? Its annoying. Course nothing like what your going through Bill...
Im going to the shop Thursday. Anyone else have any other ideas? Its annoying. Course nothing like what your going through Bill...
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My mechanical AutoMeter gauge was dead on to the hi-tech boost gauge on the dyno... even surprised the dyno shop guys!
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Actually, I need a swaybar less since I have lowered springs.
All kidding aside, my car sways MUCH less through hard turns with my Steeda springs and no front swaybar, than it did with the factory springs and front swaybar installed.
Daily driver = absolutely no need for a swaybar.
Road racing = definitely need a swaybar.
You'll never SWAY me on this topic!
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I ordered and installed the SpinTech mufflers. They sounded awesome when starting up and at idle... awesome when revving up... awesome when driving around town... awesome when driving 70 on the Turnpike... and totally crappy when going between 50 and 65.
There was an awful harmonic that sounded like it was ripping out my eardrums!
The Flowmasters were back on the next day!
There was an awful harmonic that sounded like it was ripping out my eardrums!
The Flowmasters were back on the next day!
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Well most electric gauges usually have a self calibration when they start up so if the 12v is not connected properly it might not be self calibrating properly which sounds like what Autometer was saying. Do you know if it has 2-12v wires, one for constant and one for a keyed switch of is it just one 12v lead?
I dont know if you all remember me mentioning the guages not working period at one point. The shop i went to corrected a nightmare of wiring, since then the boost/vac has been acting out of wack. I'm hoping there able to see a simple wire connection or something on Thursday... At this point I'd just spend the extra $80 and get a mech gauge and try the install myself...
Don't know exactly how an electrical vacuum gauge works. But all you really need is something that sucks and blows on a gauge... and that's what a mechanical one does.
My mechanical AutoMeter gauge was dead on to the hi-tech boost gauge on the dyno... even surprised the dyno shop guys!
My mechanical AutoMeter gauge was dead on to the hi-tech boost gauge on the dyno... even surprised the dyno shop guys!
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Nah... you need springs.
Actually, I need a swaybar less since I have lowered springs.
All kidding aside, my car sways MUCH less through hard turns with my Steeda springs and no front swaybar, than it did with the factory springs and front swaybar installed.
Daily driver = absolutely no need for a swaybar.
Road racing = definitely need a swaybar.
You'll never SWAY me on this topic!
Actually, I need a swaybar less since I have lowered springs.
All kidding aside, my car sways MUCH less through hard turns with my Steeda springs and no front swaybar, than it did with the factory springs and front swaybar installed.
Daily driver = absolutely no need for a swaybar.
Road racing = definitely need a swaybar.
You'll never SWAY me on this topic!
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...
I dont know if you all remember me mentioning the guages not working period at one point. The shop i went to corrected a nightmare of wiring, since then the boost/vac has been acting out of wack. I'm hoping there able to see a simple wire connection or something on Thursday... At this point I'd just spend the extra $80 and get a mech gauge and try the install myself...
:
I dont know if you all remember me mentioning the guages not working period at one point. The shop i went to corrected a nightmare of wiring, since then the boost/vac has been acting out of wack. I'm hoping there able to see a simple wire connection or something on Thursday... At this point I'd just spend the extra $80 and get a mech gauge and try the install myself...
:
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Nah... you need springs.
Actually, I need a swaybar less since I have lowered springs.
All kidding aside, my car sways MUCH less through hard turns with my Steeda springs and no front swaybar, than it did with the factory springs and front swaybar installed.
Daily driver = absolutely no need for a swaybar.
Road racing = definitely need a swaybar.
You'll never SWAY me on this topic!
Actually, I need a swaybar less since I have lowered springs.
All kidding aside, my car sways MUCH less through hard turns with my Steeda springs and no front swaybar, than it did with the factory springs and front swaybar installed.
Daily driver = absolutely no need for a swaybar.
Road racing = definitely need a swaybar.
You'll never SWAY me on this topic!
(Look back a few pages for a dissertation on roll couple)
Like I said, it's a trade off. It would certainly be much faster through the corners with the sway bar....but in this case, we've traded corner speed for....what, a few pounds right?
If you like it....then it's a good trade.