JonCo

question... my boost/vac gauge is still not going into vac and rest only at 0 and up. Autometer sent me a new module for the boost/vac and it still doesn't read correct... They mentioned something about the guage may not be hooked up to a constant 12v so at ignition it sets vac when the car is on. Something to that effect?

Im going to the shop Thursday. Anyone else have any other ideas? Its annoying. Course nothing like what your going through Bill...

89Trooper

This may be a simple idea... get a mechanical boost/vacuum gauge.

It has 1 plastic line that you tee into manifold vacuum (like the line running to the fuel pressure regulator).

You'll still have 2 wires to hook up, though... for the light!

tom281

So I take it your vac/boost gauge is electric? Mine is mechanical, so I can't help you there.

StangMahn

man, what's the deal today, don_w's back posting, and the troopers back! How's everything going Trooper? Your turbo strangeness just makes a supercharger more appealing to me, less parts in a Supercharger

JonCo

Yeah its electric. The shop who installed my kit said it was better then mech gauges which were dated technology. I just think now he made more money off the electrical gauges then the cheaper mech gauges. What's really the difference? I'm clueless really...

fabman

Exactly....you dont NEED anything as long as you are willing to accept the trade off you get from not having it....like springs. You dont NEED springs....but boy, don't it feel better when they're in the car then when they're in the garage....



It's all a trade off.

JonCo

I dunno about that, I'd be tempted if I could do it all over again to go with a turbo set up.

89Trooper

Everything is going fine here... I'll try to check back more often! The turbo is still running strong...

The pressure loss in the intercooler can happen in a supercharger system, too... unless you don't have an intercooler, of course!

It all depends on the system, too... one could have a .5 psi loss, or even a 2 psi loss.

The spring change was surprisingly easy! 6 bolts off the wastegate and change the spring... maybe even easier than a pulley swap! I have to get under the car, though...

habu

welcome back Tom. hows the hunt for a exhaust note ?, Ya know I ought to check my cabin filter


Hey Bill.... Figures 'bout RET. Just got off the phone w/Adam, he was outta town, and was trying to get you. Either way both are good guys. Was RET able to give you any type of initial indication of what the problem might be ??

Robbieg

Well most electric gauges usually have a self calibration when they start up so if the 12v is not connected properly it might not be self calibrating properly which sounds like what Autometer was saying. Do you know if it has 2-12v wires, one for constant and one for a keyed switch of is it just one 12v lead?

89Trooper

Don't know exactly how an electrical vacuum gauge works. But all you really need is something that sucks and blows on a gauge... and that's what a mechanical one does.

My mechanical AutoMeter gauge was dead on to the hi-tech boost gauge on the dyno... even surprised the dyno shop guys!

89Trooper

Nah... you need springs.

Actually, I need a swaybar less since I have lowered springs.

All kidding aside, my car sways MUCH less through hard turns with my Steeda springs and no front swaybar, than it did with the factory springs and front swaybar installed.

Daily driver = absolutely no need for a swaybar.
Road racing = definitely need a swaybar.

You'll never SWAY me on this topic!

89Trooper

I ordered and installed the SpinTech mufflers. They sounded awesome when starting up and at idle... awesome when revving up... awesome when driving around town... awesome when driving 70 on the Turnpike... and totally crappy when going between 50 and 65.

There was an awful harmonic that sounded like it was ripping out my eardrums!

The Flowmasters were back on the next day!

JonCo

...

I dont know if you all remember me mentioning the guages not working period at one point. The shop i went to corrected a nightmare of wiring, since then the boost/vac has been acting out of wack. I'm hoping there able to see a simple wire connection or something on Thursday... At this point I'd just spend the extra $80 and get a mech gauge and try the install myself...

If I have to I'll switch and call it quits on this electrical bussiness... Waste of $200.

LEO_06GT

Finally I have more than an army of one.

LEO_06GT

Just checked my air filter and it's amazingly clean. Took me about 5 minutes to remove and reinstall everything.

89Trooper

You always knew I was with ya!

Plus, the added weight of the Turbo was countered by getting rid of that rediculously heavy front mount!... right Leo?

Robbieg

Yeah, I do remember now that you say that. I am on vacation this week and next week and I'm not doing anything, if you want some help looking at it I'll be happy to give you a hand, 2 heads are better than 1.

89Trooper

You'll be much happier... I could see using newer technology for an Air/Fuel ratio meter, maybe... but not for a vacuum gauge. Sometimes simpler is better.

fabman

There is a reason for that...the front roll couple of the stock sway bar and stock spring rate is quite low, with the stiffer after market springs your wheel rate went up even though the sway bar was disconnected....add to this that the center of gravity is now closer to the roll center of the car effectively shortening the moment arm against the roll center, your car will naturally roll less....it's simple geometry. It probably handles as good as you need it to for what you are doing....which is perfect in this case.

(Look back a few pages for a dissertation on roll couple)

Like I said, it's a trade off. It would certainly be much faster through the corners with the sway bar....but in this case, we've traded corner speed for....what, a few pounds right?


If you like it....then it's a good trade.