Got it... now I have to fix my sig, too

I did that once, had to go back and do it again though.
One thing that I don't like and hopefully it can be changed. The way it shows the links name instead of the name you give it. Like the album links.
And is everyone's font really big ?

Nope, font size looks normal to me.

Oh btw, the clearance between the ground and the lower center of the CDC measures approx 6.25" (that's 6 1/4" to all you carpenters :) )


IMG tag insetion test.. it works!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../IMG_8070m.jpg

Man that pic is huge !! LOL Nice "Redfire" GT (It looks like Redfire Metallic in that pic)
Hey Bill, BTW you need to fix the ampersand in K & N under your Sig. :)

I resized the image a bit. Fit better?

Also fixed the 'K&N', thanks.. I missed that one.

Yep that fits perfect :)
here is my test pic
Attachment 51
I did it as an attachment, how did you post yours ?
I am hainvg trouble getting used to this :(

I see your pic, lookin' good!

I link the pic from my Photobucket album. Find your pic, left click once on the Img link to highlight, right click and copy, past that Img link in your reply here.

Try it.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...igs/Avatar.jpg

What am I doing wrong, I click the image button, paste the link and hit enter and this is how it comes out ?

OK got it. Thanks Bill

You're so close, Daryl!

Under every pic in your Photobucket album, there's 3 links (Url, Tag, Img).
What you want is the Img link.

Should look like this:
[IMG]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/OKCMustangGT/MyStang03-14-2006Tintedc.jpg...

Must have the [IMG] brackets at the beginning and the end.

This is the link you post here.

Also, double check that under User CP, Edit Options; box for Show Images is check marked.

I wish my rotors would have arrived for my "weekend". Guess I'll finish up the pedals and hopefully get my replacement tire (and take some pics).

About the dead pedal - It doesn't look like it goes over to the left far enough. When I slide it down to where it should be, it overhangs on the right and I'm afraid I'll hit it when shifting. Bill & Daryl - did the plastic kick panel come all the way down to the carpet? If I cut a tiny amount of that kick panel away, the dead pedal can slide to the left more.

My rotors should be arriving today. Hopefully, I'll get to installing them soon.

I believe I located my dead pedal as far left as possible without riding into the plastic kick panel.

Unless your foot is wider than that of Sasquatch, I think it'll be fine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_7792.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_7871.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_7877.jpg

Actually my foot does hit it when shifting sometimes, I just have to make sure my foot is directly on the clutch.
Yes my kick panel comes all the way down, I didn't try to trim or even force it under.
hmm, I quess I have sasquatch feet :(

OK here goes my second trip to the dealership for problems.
My window tint has started to scratch on both windows, as I knew it would.
In a previous post I told you guys about the tinter saying he knew about the problem with the Mustangs scratching the tint, and that Ford would take care of it. Well I guess I misunderstood what he was trying to tell me. He sent me to the dealership to get them to fix the problem then he would retint it at no charge, but that they didn't install the felt. Hmmmm. Not happy right now as this was not what he told me in March.
I take it to the deaelrship and guess what ? They have no idea about the problem and have never heard of it. Good grief OKies are so stupid at times. :(
I go into detail as to what everyone on here has experienced and what has been done to correct it.
Luckily the service guy was very nice and said they would take care of it under warranty. From what I understood (hope I understood this guy correctly) they will have another tint shop install the felt if FORD has not issued a TSB replacement part. (I told them that FORD refuses to recognize it as a problem and that I am sure no replacement part has been issued)
Also I have had another problem crop up a week or so ago and they are fixing that one as well.
The triangular piece where the mirror attaches has some how risen up a little and is clipping the hard plastic trim when it closes. It is also pushing the weather stripping up and bulging it out. They ordered the parts to replace both sides and the weather stripping around the window. Looks like I will be without a car all day Thursday :(

Daryl! Didn't you read my post on window tinting and felt installation?
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=45540

Get your window 'sail' and weatherstripping taken care of under warranty, but I would only trust your own work to make sure that felt is installed correctly (again, read my linked post thoroughly).

It makes me uneasy at the thought of turning loose a bunch of grease monkeys on my GT. But, if you must, you must.

As far as TSB's and warranty coverage for scratched window tint, I have read a few posts on this and all have been unsuccessful in claiming a warranty. Reason being is that it's no fault of Ford that an aftermarket window film gets scratched.
Even if your dealer somehow can cover it, be cautious how you proceed with it (see 2 paragraphs up).

Yea I read your post, etc. But remember I got my windows tinted well before you had yours done. We lost my post when the sytem crashed earlier last month. In that thread I described how I talked to the tinter about the Mustang problem and he said he knew about it. He would fix it and he said that the dealers had picked up the cost under warranty. Well that didn't turn out to be the case at all. So They will take care of the weatherstripping and "sail" Thursday and are supposed to do the felt as well. "All under warranty"
Trust me I will set there all **** day if I have to, but it will be done "RIGHT" this time :bat:

OK what happened to everybody ?? I guess I am the only one without a life :dunno:
Here is my weekly Tuesday Painter Update:
Stop by after work instead of lunch and was a good thing as Scott was not there, but he was after work. He pulled out a square piece of board (not a piece of wood :) )with a stick on it and it looks Vista Blue. Its a sample he had sprayed and wanted to compare to my car. We took it out and it looked dead on to me, but having the trained eye he has, he says "Well its a little rich, need to adjust that a little." Uhh, ok.
His brother came back after Scott had left to go finish a paint job and said the same **** thing. :)
It looks like they have finally got caught up enough he can get mine done and he said probably this week.
Maybe I have a weekend project other than washing and Zainoing the car after all :woohoo:

Yes, now I remember you saying something about that.

Hope they care of your issues promptly.

Bout **** time!
I'm sure once installed, you'll say that it was worth the wait.

(I did, and that was only waiting a week and a half!)

Mine has done this from day 1 on the passenger side. I don't use the door much, so it didn't bother me. I did stop by to show the dealer and they said if it got worse or started to bother me that they would take care of it. If I do open that door, I just lightly push down on the piece a bit and it clears when the door closes. Then, since the window goes up when the door closes, the next time I open and close the door it snags again. With the windows down, after I push down on that piece to make it clear, it will clear every time. So, it's the window pushing up just a tad too far. Make sense?

Bill... see my sig! See anything new ordered?

Dead Pedal
 

When I push the dead pedal all the way to the left (touching the plastic kick panel), it overhangs the "dead pedal area" on the right a little bit.

If I slide the dead pedal up a little, because of it's shape, the curved part will allow it to move over to the left more (where there is no kick panel), but then it's too high.

If I force it under the plastic kick panel, it lifts the dead pedal up in the air toward the right and this would put pressure on the screws.

So yours is touching the plastic kick panel, and still doesn't overhang on the right at all, and is down all the way?

You guys need to take a pic and post it here. I know the sail area, but can't visualize what's wrong.

I'll have to look at mines more closely.
It may be overhanging just a bit. I do know that I didn't tuck it under the k-panel.
As far as up/down location, from my pic I posted earlier, it's positioned even with that slight drop ledge. I didn't wan't to locate it too far down towards the floor because it'll make a 'hidden triangle' space where junk can accumulate and almost impossible to clean (unless you remove the pedal).

Somebody just ordered some Steeda Ultralite lowering springs... :grin:

A quick refresher.. http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=44908

Anyone want to guess what came off this truck this late afternoon?

I'll post pics tomorrow.

MGW oil and radiator caps?

I'm not Bill but,
Steeda Ultra Lights :)
Didn't you already install your pedals or no ??

I say FedEx is either Rotors or the MGW items :)
OK Hurricane, Tornado and Earthquake Allies (Love it) :)
You guys just need to get your GT Avatars back.

Rotorpros rotors came in!

Only had time to install the fronts.

Jacking: I learned that my current floor jack will not fit under my front end any longer. I even drove up on some 2x4's; worked, but the jack handle would only move up/down maybe 3 inches! Scrubbed that idea.

Next option, Rhino ramps ...

Steeda Ultralites + CDC Classic Chin = NO GO FOR RHINO RAMPS
(see pic below for what I had to do)

Rotors: Packaged well and they're very heavy. Overall quality/workmanship I give it a 9 (scratch on the silver painted hub surface, not a big deal, non-appearance), drilled holes and gas slots look great.

Install: Those 2 bolts holding the caliper assembly to the spindle were on TIGHT! (you can see the factory blue Loctite everywhere), had to use a 1/2" breaker bar just to crack them loose.
The calipers slid off the OEM rotors no problem. I had my bro-in-law swap out the rotors while I held the calipers up.
Re-installation of the caliper assy was no problem either; slid right back on. Installed the the 2 bolts, slapped the wheels back on.. done.

As you'll see from the pics below, just rolling back down the driveway, the rotors are starting to get a more 'shiny' finish to them from the 'frost' machined finish. I'm sure after several miles of driving/braking, most all the frost will be gone.

Sound: Because my OEM pads have yet to mate with the new rotors, is sounds very 'gritty' (best way to describe it). We'll see how long it takes before it's quiet.


Here's the pics...

Fresh out of the box (notice the different part numbers for front & rear).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8076.jpg

Stock
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8077.jpg

Rhino ramp set-up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8078.jpg

Backside - the 2 bolts that must be removed (silver (caliper assy) to black (spindle).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../IMG_8083m.jpg


Cont. on next post... (darn 4 IMG limit!)

(Rotorpros install cont.)

Retaining rings removed and discarded (not required, only used for assembly at the factory).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8086.jpg

OEM rotor removed and caliper assy supported my me.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8087.jpg

Rotorpros rotor installed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8090.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../IMG_8096m.jpg

Looks good Bill !! :)
Got any shots from 10ft or so back? I wanted to see how it looks from a distance.

Thanks, Daryl!

Here's the only pan shot I have, not exactly 10', maybe 5'.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8099.jpg

I just said "Bill" because I told him I would never lower it.

I installed the 3 pedals completely, but not the dead pedal or the heel guard.

When did you guys change your locations? I was wondering if anybody would notice mine.

I missed the 'Bill' part somewhere.. :wonder:

I changed my location after I noticed Daryl's. I was thinking what kind of natural disaster does CA have? Just then, someone shook me.

Back on post 420 I asked you, specifically, if you noticed something else ordered in my sig, and Daryl said he wasn't "Bill", but he saw it was the springs. I explained that I asked "Bill" because "Bill" said he, "Bill", knew I would eventually lower it.

Hurricane alley won't actually start until June 1. And I'll be spending my time here, as much as I spend time on TMS:

http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/

(National Hurricane Center)

Look at this map: http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/tracks/2004atl.gif

We live right where Charley, Francis, and Jeanne crossed over each other. Notice how Jeanne was going to go out to sea, but did a loop and came right back for Central Florida.

I got it now... (took me while :happy: )

Tom- Any comment on the new rotors? You're just days away from receiving yours.

BTW- That Hurricane chart looks scary! At least you guys see it coming.

No word yet. I just emailed him and asked for a tracking number if available. Now that I see yours, I want mine even more!!

Yeah, at least we have a warning (usually 3 to 7 days). Those three hurricanes ripped off every shingle in my neighborhood, practically.

Dead Pedal Install
 

OK, here it shows how the dead pedal overhangs on the right. You can see the edge of the stock dead pedal area through the right set of holes:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s/DSCN3234.jpg

Here is how I trimmed the kick panel (I later used a blade to smooth out the cut). The bottom hole in the foam I did, the top hole was there.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s/DSCN3235.jpg

Here is how easily the dead pedal slides under the kick panel now :

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s/DSCN3236.jpg

Here it is just laying in place. It's down a little, but doesn't close the "triangle area". Still easy to clean under it. Also, you can see how it's over to the left a little now. I would rather have it there, than have my foot catch on it.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s/DSCN3238.jpg

I also found longer stainless steel screws that will go deeper into the foam backing.

Looks good there. I'll have to explore mine a bit further when I get the chance.

Did the longer screws help stiffen the pedal? The ones provided barely tap into the foam block. I don't rest my foot on it (yet), just for looks right now.

Well, I didn't feel it with the shorter screws, so I don't know what it felt like. But, it does feel pretty solid. They are about 4 times as long. I can say that with the short screws, they never got tight, but the longer screws seem to grab better.

Off topic...
For those who want to know how to create a hyperlink here without posting the whole URL address, it's simple.

Type out your word: Mustang Cafe
Highlight your word(s)
Click on the 'Insert Link' icon (below white smiley)
Paste your URL.
Done.

Have this: Mustang Cafe
instead of this: http://www.bcmcmustang.homestead.com/MustangCafe.html

Must use the same set-up as Yahoo!

Complete pedal install pics coming up shortly! Without the heel guard anyway.

Pedals Installed!
 

Here are the pedals installed. It probably took me 10 times as long to install them as a normal person. I even over-flattened the pedals slightly so when the top screws were put in, the aluminum pedals contoured the metal pedals perfectly.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s/DSCN3240.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s/DSCN3242.jpg

The screws I used in the dead pedal are pan-head screws. They are #8 screws, I think, and the heads are smaller and sit down into the opening. I used Loc-Tite 545 which is a thread sealer. This hardens around the threads good making the screws tight into the foam. I thought this would work better for the foam than normal Loc-Tite 222 or 271 which are thread-lockers.

Huh? bad link, but you got the idea.

Looks great, Tom!

I didn't know about the 545. Sounds like it may work though.

Now we're just waiting for your wheel shots.

I will post wheel pics tomorrow when I pull the car out of the garage.

I'll post a pic of the heel guard laying in the car and let me know if it looks better with it, or without it.

Pedals look great Tom and I will have to see if I can find some longer screws too.
Nice avatar Bill.

We get a little warning on tornadoes a few minutes to hours depending on where you are located at. You just don't know exactly where they are gonna drop :(

Here is my test link to my ALBUM

Thanks for the tip Bill !! :)

Heel guard
 

Here it is with the heel guard. One screw is holding it down. I may still want to move it to the left about an inch as my left foot heel sits close to the left edge and my right heel has plenty of room. The problem is that it looks crooked because the floor mat goes up in the back. Does it appear that way in your cars', too? I put Loc-Tite 545 on 1 screw to try it and it is much more snug now than the other 3. I'll add it to the other 3 tomorrow. I don't put a drop, either... I coated the threads!

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s/DSCN3245.jpg

I think mine is about the same, but yours is more noticeable due to the contrsting floor mats and floor carpet.
You can also see my dead pedal pretty well here. Does it look like yours prior to you trimming the kick panel ??
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...4-29-06023.jpg

Yes, it looks like mine did. Does yours over hang on the right? If you want to trim it, trace the dead pedal the way you have it now on the kick panel. Then remove that Christmas Tree fastener and you can bend the kick panel up and cut it with a pair of dykes. Then you can smooth out the cut with a blade. The dead pedal will move over and you can make new holes (I just stabbed the carpet with an awl and let the screws make the holes in the foam).

Well the Dealership did not get the parts in today, so it looks like tomorrow for the sails and weatherstripping replacements.
I do have a little story to tell.
While on my way to work this morning, I had my first opportunity to dust some kids, and I didn't do it :(
I just didn't like the patch of road that it was on, too rough and too many people (must be getting old :shame: )
I turn at a light and as I pass the Sonic a nice looking Black car (Monte Carlo I think, the ones that look like the Buick GNX) pulls out as I pass and I see them race up to get along side me. I hear one of them yell at me and I look over and he is motioning to run em. I just laughed at him and shook my head no, so they floor it.
This is where I really started to laugh, it sounded like complete S*** and actually bogged and stalled on him.
I was laughing so hard I couldn't drive straight :lol:

Good judgement call, Daryl. There's a time and a place for that stuff and it sounds like it wasn't neither.

I haven't been revved by anyone yet :happy: , so I just rip up and down the street like an idiot by myself (remember my videos?).

Daryl- Please tell me you vacuumed up that mess! :slap:

Seeing that amount of debris is freaking me out. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...Icons/joke.gif

:lol: I knew when I posted that picture you would comment on it. Yes it has since been cleaned and has since been dirtied again. This rain, and my son are good at tracking up the car. This weekend is the wash, vacuum, Zaino, (hopefully scoop install) weekend.
I need to carry a cordless vac in there I guess :dunno:

Ha! You know me too well!
I got the debris tracking problem solved. I still use the dealer paper mats over my carpeted floor mats and remove them before a show (or drive-in). Also, another trick I use to pick up the tiniest particle is some 2" masking tape; you'd be surprised what it'll pick up.

Don't worry, I'll be checking myself into an Asylum soon. :screwy:

Daryl- Are you entertaining the thought of installing a hood scoop or shaker still (to compliment your soon to be side scoops)?

Definitely a shaker, that is why I haven't really got too many mods yet, as that will suck up a bunch of my mod money. I really want to get the Stripes installed first.
I talked to Steve (one of my Paint/Body friends) and he said they have a lady that comes by and does all their vinyl striping and she is excellent. See how much it costs and talk to her and I may just have her put them on. I wanted to talk to her before I ordered the BSM stripe kit.

That's what I did yesterday before my pedal pics. I tape it backwards around my hand and roll it around the carpet. It does pick up a bunch of stuff!

Guess we can both check-in to the Asylum together; seperate rooms of course! :blush:

A lady installer? Interesting.
Do let us know what you find about about the install and cost.

I've been going back and forth on that BSM kit for a long time.

18" Black Bullitts
 

Here are the long awaited 18" Black Bullitt pics:

CLICK HERE

The first 5 pictures are new. Some with the top up, some with the top down.

Just got a call... the tire is IN!

I like it ! :hail:

Oh cool just now noticed we are not senior members anymore :)
They got the titles back to normal and I am a Bullitt Member now :woohoo: Oh, wait I think I was that before the upgrade :rofl:

Looks great! I like the polished wheel lip and the Bullitt combo, it'll make the drilled rotors fill in the space nicely.

And you're right, your vert is screaming for a mild drop and a Classic chin!

Good news about your replacement tire! :)

2 hours wasted, but I'm finally home. I'll end up putting the tire on. Then I'll take them all off for the springs, then all off again for the rotors. Unless they come at the same time.

Wait till they both come in, do them at the same time.
:)

Easier said than done!

Thanks for the compliments on the wheels (both of you).

Looks who's back:

Did Steeda give you a ship date yet?

I know you mentioned that Rotorpros will be shipping the rotors out this week, putting the delivery date sometime next week, hopefully by your 'weekend'.

I would do them both (mods) at the same time like Daryl mentioned.
Unless of course, ya just can't wait! (like me)

What's holding the Pony on? Piece of bubble gum? :jester:

I'll try to wait to do both mods at the same time. No ship date from Steeda... but they are right down below me. Like 1/4" on the map. Sucks I had to pay tax, though.

The pony is just laying there, waiting for adhesion.

I still have some of the alignment pins left to center it just like stock.

Got a surprise today. And they sent a GT keychain for free (maybe they weren't selling). Did your front springs have a plastic sheathing around one of the coils, Bill?

Do we have a link to your install? Now I just have to figure out how to compress the front springs to remove them. Guess I'll rent the tool from Auto Zone if they have the correct one (it's free).

Cool, I bet those get put on before you get your calipers :)
That brings up a question, what does everyone have as a keychain?
The first thing I bought for my GT was in fact my keychain. I got it the same month I ordered the car. Lets see everyone's keychains :rofl:
Attachment 247

I think I'll move the '89 out of the garage, cover it, and pull the '06 dead center in the garage. Then I can work on it a little every morning before work and I won't rush on it. Yeah, me rush?

Here is my keychain:

I got one more key on mine than yours :) House key
Rush ? What is that :dunno:

I have a separate key chain for every vehicle. None have a house key. I just use the garage opener or keypad by the garage. Guess I'm screwed if there is a power failure.

Bill, Bill, Bill... help, help, help... install link, install link, install link.

Hey! I didn't get a free keychain!

Here's the link: Steeda Ultralite spring install

Yes, leave that clear plastic sheathing (insulator) on those front coils. You take off the black ones off the OEM coil and transfer it to the Steeda spring, sort of 'back to back'. (See pic)

Rear spring orientation: Per Steeda Tech, install the TIGHT wound coil UP into the body and the LOOSE wound coil DOWN towards the axle. (See pic)

Dang, now I'll have to post my keychain when I get home.

That must be where the coils lay on each other. My box says Steeda Sport Springs, but has part number 555-8206.

I just looked at the invoice, they actually charged me $0.01 for the key chain.

That's the correct PN# for the Ultralites.
One sure way of telling you have the correct ones is by looking at the rear springs.

As mentioned, one end has tight wound coils and the other end has loose wound coils. Only the Ultralites are like this.

Still have your instructions that came with the springs? Mine says for part numbers 555-8215, 555-8216. I'm sure it's the same, but the picture of the rear spring has the coils the same all the way from the top to the bottom. If you have it, can you scan and email it? Here is a pic of my springs:

Attachment 255

I emailed steeda just to see what they say.

Thanks for the link to the install. My instructions don't say anything about that black insulator that you swapped from the old springs to the new springs.

Yes, same single piece of B&W copy paper for the installation directions, worthless IMO.

That's why I had you look at your rear springs, the 'Sport' ones are wound even, top to bottom (like illustrated in that paper instruction).

Stuff like the rear spring orientation and transferring of the black insulator, I had to find here in TMS and by calling Steeda Tech Support for verification. So for those two things, it'll be like I said.

If you go by my install link, you'll be fine.

OK, and I guess I'll just use the standard "outside of the spring" spring compressors that everybody else uses for coil-over springs.

I also asked in the email if there was a 555-8206 install sheet.

I just looked at what instruction sheet they gave me, same as yours, for the 555-8215 & 555-8216.
I bet they're going to say to use the one provided. :bs2: ... exactly what I thought. Thank God for TMS (isn't this how we ALL get the real scoop on things?). :nice:

Okay, here's my keychain.

I dropped my car off at approximately 7:30 at the dealership for the sail and weatherstripping replacement.
Got a call at 10:20 that is was ready. Was very happy about how little time it took.
I have definitely got these guys knowing how particular I am about the car, there was not a spec of dirt and they only put 2/10Th's of a mile on it. I'm happy about that :)
Had bad dreams about getting my car with 5 miles put on it and them claiming they had to drive it to test the replacement for leaks. :nonono:
I have a 2:00 appointment with their tinters and they are installing the felt and charging it to the dealership. Once again that makes me happy, but you can bet your *** I will be watching that install. :bat:
On a sad note, I have somehow gotten my first scratch :(
A small one between the rear of the driver door and the wheel. I have no idea how it got there but I will see if my friends at the shop can buff her out.

Y`all have WAY too much time and Money!

:nonono:

Sorry bout the scratch Daryl...............

Time & Money
 

I could use more time (I can post a lot here because I can do it at work, too). As far as money, I think we are all about maxed out. However, I'll let stuff ride on my Capital One card (only 4.99%). I try to pay off what I charge, but I can let $1000 worth of parts ride for awhile at less than $5.00 per month while I pay it off. This way I can have the parts now instead of later. What's in your wallet?

Ahh the evil credit card :)
I have avoided that route so far, hence the smaller current mods list. :rofl:
Ditto on being able to post at work. :)

It usually can be buffed out or at least to the point that it's so faint that you'll hardly notice it. Only the bad gouges that go through all the coats and primer will need some T/U paint.

Nevertheless, it's a bummer it got there.

Same here, I can post, read, research, spend money all from my desk. :nice:

(2) 20's, (1) 5, and (4) 1's... I'm rich! :grin:

What did you spend the $1 on ? :rofl:

Very good!
I broke my 10 lastnight buying a grad card for my Niece (had change for the tax).

It's not that evil if you have control. I would rather get everything at one time and send a payment for a few months, than save for a few months and then buy. Kinda like the rims, rotors, and springs deal.

I have thought long and hard about MOD`s.
No-one thought much of the "Bra" idea. Kinda scared me .... see?
I thought of stripes , but unless you spend big <here`s that Money thing again> , you get vinyl <sp> and it`s good for about 8 years only. I blew it off.
I like the stock rims , tires are ok , as long as they have some meat on `em. <Can`t stand low profile tires>
Don`t much care for "Billit" stuff , as I ordered mine with a black dash , so I would have as little glare inside as possible. It has no chrome bumpers or trim , so chrome accessories on the outside look cheap to me. I shore do like the Idea of a Blower tho , but thats another $6 k. Maybe after 2 years when I pay it off.
OTher than the Zaino , tint and the car-cover , looks like stock fer me.:dunno:

Lower it! I'll be doing that next week.

Nothing is wrong with vinyl. Plus, if you start not liking the stripes, you can just take them off! Not as easy with paint.

How do you like my 18" aftermarket rims? They have the same amount of sidewall as Bill's stock rims:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...Bullitts/1.jpg

Click here for more pics of the wheels on the car.

I'm with you on the chrome. But with the polished aluminum bullitts, some things go good with it (like the polished aluminum fuel door), plus you have the pony in the grille, and the fake fuel door in the rear.

You could get the Silverhorse Racing black-out panel for the rear. That really makes the rear-end look nice! See my signature for a pic.

Plus, you HAVE to get a shorty antenna (black if you don't like the chrome). I can give you a link to an eBay auction if you want one.

What about the Midwest plenum cover, or the body-matching mirror inserts (which really look nice)... again, see my sig for pics.

Just got home from the Tinter. Holy crap is all I can say. Went to lunch at 1:00 got to tinter at 1:50 left there at 4:30 :eek:
This tinter knew all about the 05+ Stangs, said he doesn't do one that he doesn't recommend they install the felt and tells them what happens if they don't, so that was a relief. Once they got in the shop it only took them about 30 minutes to do both side. Left the car spotless.
The window sills now look like it should have been from the factory. (Wake up FORD)
Best thing is it cost me NADA, going to cost Ford some cash though. He said they charge $100 to install the felt :eek:
Picture of the inside FELT

A couple more here.

Just need to return to old tinter and get the front windows re-tinted and I will be done with this ordeal. :)

I just got 15ft of velcro at Wal-Mart for about $15. I'll be taking the car to a new place I found. I've seen some of the work they do and it looks great. When I get it home, I'll pull the doors out like in Bill's pics, prep the area for the felt, and install it. Then before the windows go down even 1 time, the velcro will be there.

Wheels and tires look awesome! :nice: Now, about that wheel well gap... j/k, I know you're all over that one!

And thanks for backing up my mods!

Sorry guys, I'm a couple days behind in posting my dead pedal location, but here it is.
You can see the ledge along the right side of the pedal and the distance to the kick panel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...l/IMG_8121.jpg

Throttle Recalibration
 

I just found this out in another forum and thought I would pass it on:

theres a way to 'recalibrate' the gas pedal/throttle servo:

turn key on without starting
wait for lights to go out
depress gas pedal to floor and release
turn off key

One guy said he got better throttle response after doing this.

Daryl- Glad you got that part taken care of. Bet it must be a big relief!