Trunk Monkey alone almost makes this topic worthwhile again!

 

I never have used a remote trunk release inside the car when I have had a car with a key fob. I always keep the glove box locked(typically keep the wheel lock key locked inside the glove box), so I would need to get the keys to unlock the glove box to open the trunk anyways.

 

Kids locking themselves in trunks and dying.
Carjacking victims.

I believe legislation was passed on this.

 

I especially like the cartoon on the glow in the dark eject handle......I know its not an amusing subject if you need it, but the cartoon stick man.......

 

My remote will lock and unlock the doors the doors but suddenly stopped unlocking the trunk. I put a new battery in the remote but no luck. Anyone have any ideas what the problem is?
Thanks for any info.

 

probably the latch mechanism . . . mine was replaced when the car was still under warranty, and I've seen other threads on here about similar problems . . . try the "search" feature to find the other threads, or maybe someone who knows the details will chime in here

 

Overall, I agree. The most likely thing is that the motor in the latch has gone out, or the gears in it are stripped. You may have heard a grinding noise when trying to open the trunk, that'd be the gear stripping issue. The fix for either is a new latch assembly:
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...SABEgJM-vD_BwE
As an example, of course. I got mine from the local Ford dealer when it happened a few years back. Fixed it right up in my case.

That said, it's also possible the wiring could be messed up somewhere along the line that sends the 'open' signal to the latch, or the SJB is not happy in some way. And of course, there's a fuse to look at:
https://lmr.com/products/s197-mustan...panel-diagrams
Number 57 (sorta in the middle) of the BEC (the fuse box on the right side of the engine bay) for the '05-'09s

It'd be wise to test, if you don't hear any grinding noise, that the signal wires to the latch are indeed sending the signal. You can use a multimeter or a small amperage test lamp to do that check before you went and spent money on a latch that didn't need replacement. If you can't get a signal to the latch in the first place, you gotta fix that.

If you got the grinding noise, simple: latch.

Oh yeah, one other... the remote itself can be broken, on that button anyway. Might investigate that. You can go to most auto parts stores or a dealer parts counter and they'll have a little tester that'll 'hear' the remote when you push the buttons. You can verify it's sending signals from all buttons and ensure it's not the remote itself that way. And if it's not working on that button, well, there ya go.

Hope that helps!

 

Thanks so much for all that info! Looks like I will be busy checking all these alternatives.

 

Never knew that the auto parts stores can check the remotes good info to know.

 

The problem was the latch. I had purchased another trunk lid because mine had damage and sure enough, when I hooked up the harness to the replacement trunk lid, the remote worked the latch. Tremendous! Thanks again for the suggestion!!

 

re: the remote checker: Can't speak for all of them, but I've seen the little checkers on the counters at plenty of 'em, and where I work (dealership group), the parts guys have a little fob kinda thing that'll do it too. I wander by and use it sometimes just to be sure, it also shows signal strength, which can indicate a weak battery.