2005-2009 Mustang Information on The S197 {Gen1}

lower control arms

Old Jan 16, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #21  
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What does the relocation bracket do??
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by atrav83
What does the relocation bracket do??
It makes you hook better. You can read about it if you look them up on american muscle, steeda, or other dealer websites or if you find a thread. It especially helps wheel spin if you're lowered and the angle of the control arms gets messed up bc you're sitting lower than stock. So you can get them back into spec with the brackets and it'll eliminate wheel spin. That's not very detailed but basically what they do
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 03:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 06blackvertstang

It makes you hook better. You can read about it if you look them up on american muscle, steeda, or other dealer websites or if you find a thread. It especially helps wheel spin if you're lowered and the angle of the control arms gets messed up bc you're sitting lower than stock. So you can get them back into spec with the brackets and it'll eliminate wheel spin. That's not very detailed but basically what they do
Gotcha, so which order should I get everything? Control arms then springs or springs then control arms?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 04:06 PM
  #24  
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You seem pretty eager to drop some money into your car. What are you looking to do with it? Drag racing? Autocross? That's really going to dictate a lot of what you'd want to buy first.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #25  
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Probably drag in the future, I just want it to be the baddest v6 I can make really
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 04:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by atrav83
Probably drag in the future, I just want it to be the baddest v6 I can make really
When you jump off the line, do your rear wheels hop around? If they do, then I'd think about LCAs. Otherwise, springs may be money better spent. If you get springs, you should get matching shocks & struts for the springs (or adjustable ones would be better --but more $$). Otherwise the much stiffer springs will overpower your stock shocks/struts and they could not only wear out faster but the car might be less controllable (it would tend to bob around more)

Keep in mind, once you lower the car, you have to spend more $$$ to fix the suspension geometry. That's where things like LCA relo brackets and Steeda X5 ball joints (or BMR front control arms with longer stem ball joints) come into play.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Cavero

When you jump off the line, do your rear wheels hop around? If they do, then I'd think about LCAs. Otherwise, springs may be money better spent. If you get springs, you should get matching shocks & struts for the springs (or adjustable ones would be better --but more $$). Otherwise the much stiffer springs will overpower your stock shocks/struts and they could not only wear out faster but the car might be less controllable (it would tend to bob around more)

Keep in mind, once you lower the car, you have to spend more $$$ to fix the suspension geometry. That's where things like LCA relo brackets and Steeda X5 ball joints (or BMR front control arms with longer stem ball joints) come into play.
Hmm gotcha, so maybe springs and shocks then lcas? Cuz I don't plan to track it too hard just yet
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 05:19 PM
  #28  
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My friend has koni strt.t's and h&r super sports on his 2010 v6. it threw the lcas way off. He replaced the lowers with j&m and the relocation brackets (bmr) put everything in alignment.

BTW you have to get an adjustable panhard bar!!
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 05:57 PM
  #29  
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https://themustangsource.com/showthr...errerid=100108


Time Machine... it's all been explained.

If you want to "phase in" your mods remember you have to take apart a generous portion of the car for springs, shocks, struts so you may want to do those all together. You also want to buy a matched set of springs and shocks/struts so the car responds properly.

The amount of drop, denoted by your springs, will induce other issues that you will have to address (i.e. panhard rod), but a minimal drop 3/4" to 1" will not induce much change.

If you are looking for drag launch with stock V6 power, you may not have to look far. If you start adding power, the car will show you where the weaknesses requires attention.

Again, all the vendors on this site are great, as they have lasted through the barrage of newbs and internet shopping race jockeys. The difference is really in the service and support, so find one you like and stay loyal.

- Good Luck
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by shaun_beauchamp
https://themustangsource.com/showthr...errerid=100108

Time Machine... it's all been explained.

If you want to "phase in" your mods remember you have to take apart a generous portion of the car for springs, shocks, struts so you may want to do those all together. You also want to buy a matched set of springs and shocks/struts so the car responds properly.

The amount of drop, denoted by your springs, will induce other issues that you will have to address (i.e. panhard rod), but a minimal drop 3/4" to 1" will not induce much change.

If you are looking for drag launch with stock V6 power, you may not have to look far. If you start adding power, the car will show you where the weaknesses requires attention.

Again, all the vendors on this site are great, as they have lasted through the barrage of newbs and internet shopping race jockeys. The difference is really in the service and support, so find one you like and stay loyal.

- Good Luck
Shaun knows what he's talking about. He helped me with my suspension mods
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