Bumpsteer kits, are they worth it?
#1
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Bumpsteer kits, are they worth it?
I have a 2006 GT Vert and I've installed FRPP springs, struts, strut mount, LCA up front. I noticed my steering wheel and car vibrating side to side and found out that the driver side inner tie rod had play. I bought new inner and outer tie rods for both sides and was thinking about getting a bumpsteer kit. The best price I could find was $99 for a Shelby Bumpsteer Kit from Shelby. They're on sale.
From everything I've read the reason to get the bumpsteer kit is to eliminate bumpsteer which occurs when the tie rod isn't parallel to the LCA. When I look at mine it seems pretty parallel to me.
Is this just hype or is a bumpsteer kit really worth it?
From everything I've read the reason to get the bumpsteer kit is to eliminate bumpsteer which occurs when the tie rod isn't parallel to the LCA. When I look at mine it seems pretty parallel to me.
Is this just hype or is a bumpsteer kit really worth it?
#2
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The Steeda bumpsteer kit is a set of outer tie rod ends, with long ball joint stems and spacers so you can set the tie rods to be fairly parallel with the control arm.
![](http://www.steeda.com/store/images/products/555-8106.jpg)
I can't say whether its worth it or not since I don't know what my car is like lowered without them. I had mine installed along with an alignment the same day I put in my lowering springs. So I only know stock, lowered with bad alignment, and lowered with good alignment and the bumpsteer kit
![](http://www.steeda.com/store/images/products/555-8106.jpg)
I can't say whether its worth it or not since I don't know what my car is like lowered without them. I had mine installed along with an alignment the same day I put in my lowering springs. So I only know stock, lowered with bad alignment, and lowered with good alignment and the bumpsteer kit
#3
If the car is lowered on springs I would say yes it is worth it.
I added them to my already lowered car and it eliminated the problem of the front end getting squirrelly at speed when the car was going over slight bumps. It corrects the geometry and eliminates the toe problem when the front end is under added load like after a slight hump or bump at highway speed.
I could definitely feel the difference.
I added them to my already lowered car and it eliminated the problem of the front end getting squirrelly at speed when the car was going over slight bumps. It corrects the geometry and eliminates the toe problem when the front end is under added load like after a slight hump or bump at highway speed.
I could definitely feel the difference.
#4
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Have not installed but I snagged a set of the Shelby's, def best price I've seen usually kits are 140-160ish
I am pretty sure they're rebranded Scott Drakes (most of shelby stuff is rebranded something or other)
I am pretty sure they're rebranded Scott Drakes (most of shelby stuff is rebranded something or other)
#6
You'd have to check when the front suspension is under load, not at rest and level. I'd agree with the previous post that if 1" or less, no need to bother, especially if you are not tracking it. If you are tracking your car with 1.5" or lower, no hype, get 'em. They'll also resist heat on the track and you would not need tie rod shields (Ford Racing, $25).
To check it under load, jack the opposite rear corner up and see how that compresses the suspension. I use a spare strut with no spring and then use a bottle jack to "cycle" the suspension arm to see how the tie rod is moving.
To check it under load, jack the opposite rear corner up and see how that compresses the suspension. I use a spare strut with no spring and then use a bottle jack to "cycle" the suspension arm to see how the tie rod is moving.
#7
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You'd have to check when the front suspension is under load, not at rest and level. I'd agree with the previous post that if 1" or less, no need to bother, especially if you are not tracking it. If you are tracking your car with 1.5" or lower, no hype, get 'em. They'll also resist heat on the track and you would not need tie rod shields (Ford Racing, $25).
To check it under load, jack the opposite rear corner up and see how that compresses the suspension. I use a spare strut with no spring and then use a bottle jack to "cycle" the suspension arm to see how the tie rod is moving.
To check it under load, jack the opposite rear corner up and see how that compresses the suspension. I use a spare strut with no spring and then use a bottle jack to "cycle" the suspension arm to see how the tie rod is moving.
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tj@steeda
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9/16/15 06:44 PM