Don't know if you guys are aware of this but there were changes from 2000 to 2001
Not sure what else but the defog switch is different

The problem only started after I fitted the new dash
Have some pictures and info so I'll load it up when I get back later

Have ongoing issues with the scan tool people and PayPal so will get into that when it's sorted

Here we go then


When you're buying a dash pack - this is exactly what you need - well done Jessies Auto Recycling


This isn't - 9 out of 10 dash packs for sale were quoted as having this part number - yep - you guessed it - its the part number of the rear casing which they all have!
You have to wonder why these breakers haven't noticed that all the dashes they've ever seen have the same part number?

Now - to the rear window de-fog switch - some of you will know this already I think
If I understand correctly - the de-fog switch on a 2000 car is next to the head lamp switch - on a 2001 car it's in the centre console

The problem is - some function of the 2001 system is part of the dash - fit a 2000 dash as I did and it causes the defog relay to click in powering the window grid
As it's not ignition switched, it's on all the time so this means a flat battery real quick

I found 2 extra wires in one of the dash plugs which are not there according to the 2000 manuals I shipped over
Popped them out of the plug and the problem is solved but the defog does not now work - that's a fix later issue at this time of year


Thankfully - you can get the pins out the plug quite easily - heat shrink and tape up for now

Of course - what this means - is - I didn't know that there is a completely new set of factory manuals for 2001 cars which I now have to get
Hopefully someone will want the 2000 set so I can get some money back

Not so worried about the millage as I think I will need to get another instrument cluster to suit the V8 installation - rev counter will be wrong otherwise

Going back to the wheel swap - is this the worst wheel design ever?

Correct me if I'm wrong but you fit larger diameter wheels so you have space to improve the brakes - so why is the valve right where the calliper needs to be?
The well for getting tyres on and off is at the back so that means the tyre machine would have to grip the front rim - I must be missing the point here?

Any way - hears what I had on the shelf -

Not sure if they really suit but it's what I already had

Got to go - dinner time

Neil

 

Neil

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...-10849-aa.html

The Clusters Should Have a Base Part Number of 10849. Usually on a Sticker on the Cluster. When we would order a Cluster at the Dealer we would Run the Vin and Use the ID# of the Cluster, it is Similar to the Part Number But Not Quite. Then we had to fill out an online Form with Mileage and Customer Info to Be Programmed at the Cluster Exchange Center. Lets Say Part Number 1r3z-10849-aa Would Be ID# 1r3f-10849-aa Anyway The Example Above is Similar to Your Car and Gives Fit Range.

I would input your Vin to Get Actual Part Number / Id# Number. You are Correct that the Base of the Cluster is the Same on Many Cluster since it is Simply the Base. It is Just a Subcomponent. The Wrecking Yards Use a System Like Hollender Interchange which Says a Certain Part Fits Certain Years Unlike Ford which Make you Look at Each Car One at a Time. Anyhoo enough of the Cluster Review!

As far as your wheels I would Say Hot Rodding is all about using what you got to save a buck. You could have Done a lot Worse. Is an odd spot for the Valve Stems. Maybe get some Angled Metal Stems for Easier Access! I am Old School and I would strip off the Black from the wheel and polish them. But Thats me! Pretty Clean Car By the Way!

Cheers!

 

Neil I don't Know if you Saw this But can you Take a Look See!

Thanks,

K