I got to thinking about this the other day since I have to remove my front suspension again anyway. It's definitely cheaper than the tubular arms. My car will be mostly a street car but see some open track time. I already have done the
Shelby drop, 440# 1" drop coils, 1" sway bar, 4 leaf mid eye rear springs and underriders.

Will boxing the upper/lower control arms benefit me? How difficult is this? What size sheetmetal is required?

 

Hey you are using my avatar

 

it's ok, I needed a change

 

Sorry. I didn't know.

 

Not a problem at all.

I think boxing in the arms are just to keep them from flexing. I have had mine done but I don't know if it is worth it??? I think if that would be more of a last option. In your case I think I would go with a little heavier suspension. I am using 620lb front springs and 5 leaf rears. I only drive it on the streets and the handling is more than adiquate. Very firm but not too harsh.

 

One thing that you should probably look into is a bump/steer kit. This gets rather important when you lower your car that much. There is so much you can do if you want to spend the money

 

What shocks? Also, look into the AFCO screw/thread in ball joints while you are at it, much nicer.

 

Jay, I don't have one picked out yet. Suggestions?

 

I'm itching to try the Edelbrocks, and I have not taken the 5 minutes to see if Bilstien does a set for the early cars but I would consider them if that is possible. I currently run a progressive spring in the front from Eibach and 5 leafs in the rear on KYBs. I would like to alter the approach in the rear to a lighter spring and some firmer shocks to complement the front springs better. This change would hopefully allow me to stuff some 18" blingers on there without inducing more ride harshness over the current 17"s ... some guys go Dairy Queen ... others go Häagen-Dazs

 

I thought you went with 18's when you put on the Boyd's?

I can't say that I've ever heard of anyone using Bilsteins on early cars but the late model guys seem to like them.

Since you're the resident guinea pig, try both out and give us a review.

 

EXACTLY the reason it is July and my car is still on the best 4 things I ever bought for it: the jackstands!!!

 

EXACTLY the reason it is July and my car is still on the best 4 things I ever bought for it: the jackstands!!! [/b][/quote]
...I feel your pain....... :bang:
________
WEB SHOWS

 

I'm itching to try the Edelbrocks, and I have not taken the 5 minutes to see if Bilstien does a set for the early cars but I would consider them if that is possible. I currently run a progressive spring in the front from Eibach and 5 leafs in the rear on KYBs. I would like to alter the approach in the rear to a lighter spring and some firmer shocks to complement the front springs better. This change would hopefully allow me to stuff some 18" blingers on there without inducing more ride harshness over the current 17"s ... some guys go Dairy Queen ... others go Häagen-Dazs [/b][/quote]

I run the edelbrocks on my '71 'vert - not bad for the street
620's up front 1.5" lowered all around (SN95 rear end).

I have used tokico's, kyb's and koni double adjustables on a fox 'stang and have to admit that if you can get the koni's
do it! B)

 

Welcome, Jim! Great to have a N.A.S.A. Director and fellow vintage Mustang roadracing enthusiast among us We look forward to your input! B)
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Glass Pipe

 

Boxing the lowers is definitely a good thing - especially with the "thin" aftermarket versions out there anymore. There's a lot of "flex"...

AFA the uppers... Seems like a marginal improvement to me. Uppers usually crack at either the perch mount or around the balljoint - the reinforcement plate doesn't look like it would help that situation. But hey, if you're bored, and have a welder....

Glad to hear KGSGT350 mention bumpsteer. Any modifed car should be checked - it's almost always needed. But most of you guys have already heard my "bumpsteer sermons".

AFA shocks... I've heard nothing but good stuff about the E-brocks also. Koni's are always nice if you have the budget. My Cure-rides have worked out well also, but they run as much as the E-brocks. I'd pass on KYB or Grab-a-Trak/Magna's.

 

Think it would be beneficial to weld some reinforcement plating around the spring perch holes. I'm using original, non-cracked UCAs.


What size metal should be used to box those lowers?

 

Yes, and 14 gauge.

 

Seems to me that the use of roller spring perches would virtually eliminate the possibility of cracking the upper arm. It appears that the original bushed pivots would place great stress in the wrong spot nearly all the time. Any thoughts.....

 

Ya know, that actually brings up a good point. I never really saw any benefit to the roller perches on a street car but that could be one if it helps to destribute some of the stress.