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Post *****
Joined: December 14, 2007
Posts: 19,953
Likes: 4
From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
Well, its not like it snows much in Texas. 
That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.
2x6 truss chords can be fine for many applications if you have some webbing.
A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 glue lam. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 4/12 roof, 24' span.
See the difference?
I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore!
That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.
2x6 truss chords can be fine for many applications if you have some webbing.
A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 glue lam. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 4/12 roof, 24' span.
See the difference?
I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore!
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 8, 2013 at 08:46 PM.
Post *****
Joined: October 9, 2007
Posts: 32,808
Likes: 163
Well, its not like it snows much in Texas.
That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.
2x6 truss chords can be fine if you have some webbing.
A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 blue lam. 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 24' span.
See the difference?
I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore!
That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.
2x6 truss chords can be fine if you have some webbing.
A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 blue lam. 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 24' span.
See the difference?
I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore!
And I freakin hate cellulose insulation!
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Joined: April 4, 2007
Posts: 20,164
Likes: 643
From: Just outside the middle of nowhere
Mach 1 Member
Joined: April 18, 2011
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Minnesota
Well, its not like it snows much in Texas.
That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.
2x6 truss chords can be fine for many applications if you have some webbing.
A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 glue lam. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 4/12 roof, 24' span.
See the difference?
I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore!
That helps to support the snow load of the roof - as does the ground load of the foundation - all engineered as a system. And helps insulation like Gary said.
2x6 truss chords can be fine for many applications if you have some webbing.
A) 60# engineered trusses in a 4/12 roof with 2x6's and webbing support. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
B) 60# engineered attic room trusses in a 6/12 roof with 2x8 top chord, 2x10 bottom chord, rolled out on a 6x12 glue lam. 2x6 walls, 28' span.
C) Even the barn has to have engineered trusses for 60#. 4/12 roof, 24' span.
See the difference?
I've had a roof cave in from snow (not 60#).
And I am not shoveling roofs anymore!
Post *****
Joined: December 14, 2007
Posts: 19,953
Likes: 4
From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
Yeah I had it blown for the lower roof but the loft with the attic room trusses was a real screw job. I need R30 in the slope but (I learned later) R30 fiberglass doesn't fit in the 2x8 top chord. If I had known that I would have paid a little extra for 2x10 top chords (lumber is cheap). Neither the truss engineeers or the building dept idiot said anything during plan review. (One hand not knowing what the other hand is supposed to do at the building dept.
)Most guys add 2x2 furring strips but I didn't want to do that since the ceiling is barely 8' and the slope of course is lowering all the way to the wall to 4 1/2'. I wanted as full a ceiling height as possible.
So I had to buy this rigid insulation R18 ($1000!!) with an inch spacer under the roof deck for ventilation (for the soffit vents to vented ridge cap), plus R13 fiberglass to get to R31 within the 2x8's. I think insulation has become my single largerst expense (or dang close!)
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 8, 2013 at 09:11 PM.
Post *****
Joined: October 9, 2007
Posts: 32,808
Likes: 163
11/32 (5/8)
Yeah I had it blown for the lower roof but the loft with the attic room trusses was a real screw job. I need R30 in the slope but (I learned later) fiberglass doesn't fit in the 2x8 top chord. If I had known that I would have paid a little extra for 2x10 top chords (lumber is cheap). (One hand not knowing what the other hand is supposed to do at the building dept. )
Most guys add 2x2 furring strips but I didn't want to do that since the ceiling is 8' and the slope of course is lowering all the way to the wall to 4 1/2'. I wanted as full a ceiling height as possible.
So I had to buy this rigid insulation R18 ($1000!!) with an inch spacer under the roof deck for ventilation (for the soffit vents to vented ridge cap), plus R13 to get to R31. I think insulation has become my single largerst expense (or dang close!)
Yeah I had it blown for the lower roof but the loft with the attic room trusses was a real screw job. I need R30 in the slope but (I learned later) fiberglass doesn't fit in the 2x8 top chord. If I had known that I would have paid a little extra for 2x10 top chords (lumber is cheap). (One hand not knowing what the other hand is supposed to do at the building dept.
)Most guys add 2x2 furring strips but I didn't want to do that since the ceiling is 8' and the slope of course is lowering all the way to the wall to 4 1/2'. I wanted as full a ceiling height as possible.
So I had to buy this rigid insulation R18 ($1000!!) with an inch spacer under the roof deck for ventilation (for the soffit vents to vented ridge cap), plus R13 to get to R31. I think insulation has become my single largerst expense (or dang close!)
24" oc and 7/16" is code here for roofs. No wind load as we are out of hurricane zones and of course no slow loads.
Insulation is a concern here but surprisingly not as much as your neck of the woods. Y'all insulate for warmth in winter and we do it for cool in summer and surprisingly there is a difference.
Typically build everything with exterior walls 10' plate height and under with 2x4 stick. Put R-13 fiberglass in the walls and then sheath the outside in a fiberbrace board that is a R-2 and then add a Dow styrofoam board that is R-4 for a total of R-19 on exterior walls. Blow the flat ceilings with R-38 fiberglass and put batting in sloped ceilings. R-19 to R-30 depending on what will fit. And we use Cool-tech radiant roof decking to shield the house from infrared heat. But it does do a number on cell reception and wi-fi inside the house sometimes.
Post *****
Joined: December 14, 2007
Posts: 19,953
Likes: 4
From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
I was just checking on the OSB. Same thing I have in my house. Wasn't sure if snow loads meant 3/4" or not. Span depending of course. Most rafters here are 24" o.c. and I went ahead and did 16" and used 5/8"
24" oc and 7/16" is code here for roofs. No wind load as we are out of hurricane zones and of course no slow loads.
Insulation is a concern here but surprisingly not as much as your neck of the woods. Y'all insulate for warmth in winter and we do it for cool in summer and surprisingly there is a difference.
Typically build everything with exterior walls 10' plate height and under with 2x4 stick. Put R-13 fiberglass in the walls and then sheath the outside in a fiberbrace board that is a R-2 and then add a Dow styrofoam board that is R-4 for a total of R-19 on exterior walls. Blow the flat ceilings with R-38 fiberglass and put batting in sloped ceilings. R-19 to R-30 depending on what will fit. And we use Cool-tech radiant roof decking to shield the house from infrared heat. But it does do a number on cell reception and wi-fi inside the house sometimes.
24" oc and 7/16" is code here for roofs. No wind load as we are out of hurricane zones and of course no slow loads.
Insulation is a concern here but surprisingly not as much as your neck of the woods. Y'all insulate for warmth in winter and we do it for cool in summer and surprisingly there is a difference.
Typically build everything with exterior walls 10' plate height and under with 2x4 stick. Put R-13 fiberglass in the walls and then sheath the outside in a fiberbrace board that is a R-2 and then add a Dow styrofoam board that is R-4 for a total of R-19 on exterior walls. Blow the flat ceilings with R-38 fiberglass and put batting in sloped ceilings. R-19 to R-30 depending on what will fit. And we use Cool-tech radiant roof decking to shield the house from infrared heat. But it does do a number on cell reception and wi-fi inside the house sometimes.
I know earthquake zone factors in some but allegedly that is more for ground load than snow load. But they seem to factor in heavy snow, strong wind, and an earthquake all at once. Engineers/bldg dept covering their butts these days. lol
I figured you got away with 2x4 walls in warmer climes. R38 flat ceiling here too. R21 walls (hence 2x6). Under floor has bumped from R25 - R30. I remember that fiberboard sheeting on the ext walls in Missouri. For some reason they don't use that out here. Just tyvek on sheeting.
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 8, 2013 at 09:30 PM.
Post *****
Joined: October 9, 2007
Posts: 32,808
Likes: 163
No doubt the thickness of the decking helps strength in spite of added weight. I went 2' oc but the trusses are engineered for that - incl the dormer spans. But the walls are 16". Wall sheeting is 7/16" here.
I know earthquake zone factors in some but allegedly that is more for ground load than snow load. But they seem to factor in heavy snow, strong wind, and an earthquake all at once. Engineers/bldg dept covering their butts these days. lol
I figured you got away with 2x4 walls in warmer climes. R38 flat ceiling here too. R21 walls (hence 2x6). Under floor has bumped from R25 - R30. I remember that fiberboard sheeting on the ext walls in Missouri. For some reason they don't use that out here. Just tyvek on sheeting.
I know earthquake zone factors in some but allegedly that is more for ground load than snow load. But they seem to factor in heavy snow, strong wind, and an earthquake all at once. Engineers/bldg dept covering their butts these days. lol
I figured you got away with 2x4 walls in warmer climes. R38 flat ceiling here too. R21 walls (hence 2x6). Under floor has bumped from R25 - R30. I remember that fiberboard sheeting on the ext walls in Missouri. For some reason they don't use that out here. Just tyvek on sheeting.
Post *****
Joined: December 14, 2007
Posts: 19,953
Likes: 4
From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
Frost line here is 24". Lots of trenching. Not bad unless your lot is on bedrock! $$$ lol
Long post ADD ahhhhhhhhhhhh
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Joined: December 11, 2007
Posts: 7,575
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From: Uxbridge, MA
