Got some aggressive rear wheels. Filled up the rear wheel wells. Not going to use as daily of course but check it out..Cosmis wheels 17x10 +22 offset. 305/45/17 Mickey Thomson SS tires.very slight fender rubbing on rear driver side.. it's dropped though by 0.50 inch glad I didn't drop by 1inch before.

 

looks tough as nails. Can you put a small spacer under the rear spring? 1/8" so maybe it won't rub at all.

 

That is a very good suggestion, didnt think about that, thanks! I'll look into it. I would love to drive with them on sometimes, especially if I find same front wheels to match..rubbing is slight, but a very small spacer would do the trick..

 

@Glenn, I looked into it and Steeda offers 1/8 inch spacers which will translate to about 1/4 inch raise in the rear. That would be perfect. So if I decide to ride these daily, I'll install the spacers. Thanks for the suggestion, that would clear any issues. Plus, I can keep the aftermarket BMR springs. Sweet!

 

Installed the 1/8 steeda spring spacers. And the difference was 1/4 inch on the fender higher. Perfect. Since I was going to do that, i also purchased the Steeda rear chassis alignment kit for the BMR lockout. I already had the BMR lockout kit on. But the alignment kit works pretty good, so good the BMR lockout cradle aligned perfect in all holes. Even the two small pain in the *** screws on the front. Once one rear alignment sleeve is in with the subframe bolt, all the rest are easy. But now my steering wheel alignment is off, so have to go get an alignment done. Overall so far so good. Also added BMR vertical links. Pic of the stock link and BMR.

 

I just purchased it last weekend and will be installing it shortly. I'll let you know how it feels when I get it installed.

 

awesome! let us know how it goes. give us any tips as well for installation..

 

I've got the shifter in and it shifts like a dream! I'll get some pics up soon but for now I'll go over the install part. If you're going to ditch the factory resonator box, DO IT NOW! It's a lot easier to install this with the exhaust out of the way. I got an MRT H-pipe and installed it at the same time as my shifter and having the exhaust out did give me more room to move around. You don't need to remove the driveshaft or exhaust to get this in but it does help. I left the driveshaft in but it wasn't a big issue. Also, access to a lift would help but I was able to do my install with my set of Quickjacks. It also helps if you loosen the trans mount so you can drop the transmission a bit to get at certain bolts. There are no instructions with the kit but I bought my shifter from CJponyparts.com and they have a step-by-step video on the install as well as a rundown of all the needed tools and sockets for the installation. I did add a little dab of white lithium grease on each bushing to make sure everything moves freely, just don't go overboard. You need to separate the shifter body to do this install if you leave the transmission installed so I added a very small bead of RTV where the shifter body splits in half to keep out water and such. It's not necessary but I figured it's better to be safe than sorry. Once again just use a small amount, don't go smearing it on like peanut butter! All in all it wasn't a hard install provided you have patience and take your time. Good Luck if you decide to purchase one, you won't be disappointed!

 

awesome good to hear its worth it. i plan on doing the barton short throw but maybe in the coming months. good info, thanks for sharing.

 

I installed the H pipe and replaced the rear boxes with more open performance rears, after a month I refitted the resonater delete because the drone in the cabin at certain revs was unbareable withnthe H pipe.

cant comment if it even gave any HP gains ( I have a 2017 5 liter)
im going to have the new software installed that I am told is the business and raises the Hp and torque, been offered it for free ...will do it on a dyno so I can see if it's actually an improvement

i have the 25mm wheel spacer kit with standard 19' wheels it makes the car look like it's been lowered I painted my OEM wheels from the horrid silver to satin black

it's not a great car but it's ok more comfortable than my Aston from a seating position but way underpowered in comparison to the British muscle car

now is it just my rubbish driving skills or do these heaps just not go around corners???

 

Cool. But the drone is from your different mufflers, not the resonator delete. I deleted the resonator and have the stock mufflers (stock axleback) and have no drone what-so-ever. The H-Pipe will not give much more HP. Its just for sound and opens up the sound a little. The corners, probably more of a stock suspension issue, you can lower the car a bit get some suspension parts that will help on the corners depending what you go with. I just have some rear stock after market parts just to stop the wheel hop on acceleration. The 2017 is i believe 425 HP i think, and the 2018+ is at 460 HP, so you are missing a little more HP than the new ones. Mustang is a straight up muscle car not comparable to an Aston for sure. And way less expensive lol

 

My 2018 GT is base, one thing I wish I had though is the digital dash. I've heard you can buy them aftermarket. Has anyone replaced the oem dash to the digital dash?

 

I think there was a thread on here where someone did that maybe one of our moderators could help you find it.

 

Installed Steeda Tri X short throw shifter. Very nice product and smooth direct shifting. If you are on the fence of doing this mod, just do it. It's just the shifter and requires patience to install, very tight space under the car. With right tools it's not tough.

 

hello, I’m also new. I recently installed my first mod, a Borla ATAK cat back exhaust system with and x-pipe and I love the sound. Check out YouTube