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Steeda 3 point Frame Rail and Torque Box Brace

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Old 1/12/13, 07:22 PM
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clearly the 3 point won't work on the vert but the gpoint brace ail definitely work and may allow the transmission cooler scoop from the boss ls to fit in the space.
thanks for the photos and info, saves me some confusion on the install.
Old 1/12/13, 11:56 PM
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What's the bolt torque specs for the steeda frame rail brace?
Old 1/13/13, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Mirad_GT12
What's the bolt torque specs for the steeda frame rail brace?
Tighten it down til it screams then back off half a turn. Seriously I really don't know, but I put 350 in lbs, which should be enough. It would be better to have it welded soon as possible.

Last edited by Big Poppa; 1/13/13 at 06:01 AM.
Old 1/13/13, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Mustang259
clearly the 3 point won't work on the vert but the gpoint brace ail definitely work and may allow the transmission cooler scoop from the boss ls to fit in the space.
thanks for the photos and info, saves me some confusion on the install.
Is the transmission scoop cooler really necessary? Seems like garbage would get caught in it.
Old 1/13/13, 07:39 AM
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To me the tranny cooler scoop may not be necessary but it does increase the cooling of the tranny box which in turn adds longevity to the system.
It is standard on the Boss LS, I am sure that is due to the potential for racing of the car.
I plan to get one because my area of the country can get quite warm and any additional cooling will be helpful, I am not worried about it catching trash.
Old 1/13/13, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Mustang259
To me the tranny cooler scoop may not be necessary but it does increase the cooling of the tranny box which in turn adds longevity to the system.
It is standard on the Boss LS, I am sure that is due to the potential for racing of the car.
I plan to get one because my area of the country can get quite warm and any additional cooling will be helpful, I am not worried about it catching trash.
You are right, I will be living in Georgia when I leave here and it gets pretty warm there as well. Anything that saves costly repairs is worth the price of admission.
Old 1/16/13, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Poppa
Tighten it down til it screams then back off half a turn. Seriously I really don't know, but I put 350 in lbs, which should be enough. It would be better to have it welded soon as possible.
I never had the chance to bolt it up. I finally decided to tackle the installation today and I was not able to make it work. I was sent the 2005-2006 version. When I ordered it through Steeda I made sure it would be applicable to the 2012's. I just assumed that the 2005+ Steeda Frame Rail and Torque brace were all indentical. Anyone know about this?

I was able to install my steeda billet rear LCAs and I'm very happy with that though. No wheel hop or added NVH from the quick test drive I just did. Now if it could only fix my rear from sliding sideways.

I've been happy with Steeda with the LCAs and Strut tower brace i purchased. Just need to resolve the Frame rails now.
Old 1/16/13, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mirad_GT12
I never had the chance to bolt it up. I finally decided to tackle the installation today and I was not able to make it work. I was sent the 2005-2006 version. When I ordered it through Steeda I made sure it would be applicable to the 2012's. I just assumed that the 2005+ Steeda Frame Rail and Torque brace were all indentical. Anyone know about this?
It should have worked and they are very easy to install. I do know if you call them and let Matt or Gus know you have the wrong part they will take care of you.
Old 1/16/13, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Poppa

It should have worked and they are very easy to install. I do know if you call them and let Matt or Gus know you have the wrong part they will take care of you.
Well I gave it another shot. Everything lines up except for one bolt that's supposed to be in the inner frame rail, towards the center of the car.

Instructions say to re use the bolt that came with that rubber shield that you have to remove. The problem is there is no bolt for that hole nor is there even threads for it to secure to even if I did have the bolt.

But I decided to install it anyway minus that bolt that's supposed to go to the inner frame rail. I could always have it welded to make it more secure and at the same time finally delete my resonators.

Last edited by Mirad_GT12; 1/16/13 at 09:33 PM.
Old 1/17/13, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mirad_GT12
Well I gave it another shot. Everything lines up except for one bolt that's supposed to be in the inner frame rail, towards the center of the car.

Instructions say to re use the bolt that came with that rubber shield that you have to remove. The problem is there is no bolt for that hole nor is there even threads for it to secure to even if I did have the bolt.

But I decided to install it anyway minus that bolt that's supposed to go to the inner frame rail. I could always have it welded to make it more secure and at the same time finally delete my resonators.
Yes, weld it. I think the car has to be sitting on it's own weight when you weld it. Don't hold me to that, call Steeda and ask for sure.
Old 1/17/13, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Poppa
Yes, weld it. I think the car has to be sitting on it's own weight when you weld it. Don't hold me to that, call Steeda and ask for sure.
Whoah that's some good info to know if it is true. Will have to look it up. Thanks for the heads up.
Old 2/23/13, 10:41 AM
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I'm having it installed today. I'll put up a review later. I'm just hoping it actually does something.
Old 2/24/13, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. V
I'm having it installed today. I'll put up a review later. I'm just hoping it actually does something.
How was the install?
Old 2/24/13, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mirad_GT12

How was the install?
Lol. Actually they ran out of time and asked if they could finish it another day. I have everything done except the brace. This actually works out better. I can compare the car with and without it. I'm going back in about 2 weeks.
Old 3/30/13, 10:45 AM
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Finally bringing my car back to have this installed. Truthfully, I'm starting to think there won't be any difference. My car handled beautifully and I love how composed it is. I doubt I'll notice anything.

It's kind of nice that I have had a month to drive without it. I'll be able to feel any difference now that I'm accustomed to my car. I hope I'm proven wrong and it works well. If not, my undercarriage will look a little prettier to me.
Old 3/30/13, 06:03 PM
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Well took my first drive with this mod. So far, it really doesn't feel much different. It has tamed the weird squeaks my car had after the car was lowered. That's a benefit. I'll have to drive it more to see if its worth it. I'm fine with my purchase because it took away a little bit of noise. At this time, I wouldn't recommend it. It seems a bit expensive. If you know how to weld, I would say its worth it, barely.

Steeda 3 point Frame Rail and Torque Box Brace-image-1418407365.jpg



Steeda 3 point Frame Rail and Torque Box Brace-image-4124310729.jpg

Last edited by Mr. V; 4/1/13 at 08:49 AM.
Old 6/3/13, 08:05 AM
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I thought I would update my review. I've had these braces for a bit now. The back does seem more solid when you put your foot down on the gas. I drove it through the twisties and didn't really feel a difference. I think this is more of a 1/4 mile mod. I don't think it's a good choice for the canyon carver. It did seem to effect my wheel hop.

I've been able to jump on it more and my wheel hop is actually gone. I did the lca, relo brackets first. It made the hop less prevalent. I had been driving her a little easy to avoid the hop. Been jumping on it after the brace install and it's gone. I do think it may be the summer tires getting more grip in the heat. I thought I'd share in case folks are considering this mod.

Personally, I'd only recommend this mod as a last item. If you've done everything else and just want that tiny but more to your 1/4 car.
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